Typhon Steering / Servo centering issues

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jondilly1974

Speed running apprentice, motor Slayer 🤘
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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
  7. Typhon 3s
So I’ve been having issues with getting the servo to center after releasing the wheel on the TX after making a turn. If I turn the wheel the other way it corrects. It just seems like the servo lacks strength to center on its own, but has plenty of power when told to go. I have to actively steer at all times. ??‍♂️

I replaced the stock servo with a 20kg servo from Amazon that was recommended at one point.

40217

ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270°

If this is junk, lmk and I will get rid of it. What does everyone use for a 4S/6S type of car? That’s the level I want to buy.
 
It should be fine, it's an overkill for the 4x4 platform. I havnt tried this specific one, I tried the JX variant, and it is more than enough (if little slow)
I already have the servo I linked above. That’s the one I’m having issues with. I am asking if I need a better one ??‍♂️
 
Oh, weird. Did you check for excessive play?
I just installed an HR steering rack thinking there was binding in the factory rack. Nothing seemed wrong. It all moves really smooth.
 
I actually purchased this same 20KG servo (based on positive reviews I found), to install in my Talion and was planning on moving the stock Talion servo over to my Typhon. Are you using the Tactic radio system? I would try dropping in the stock servo to see if that fixes the centering.

That being said, I'd recommend getting the ADS-15m for your 4x4.
 
I actually purchased this same 20KG servo (based on positive reviews I found), to install in my Talion and was planning on moving the stock Talion servo over to my Typhon. Are you using the Tactic radio system? I would try dropping in the stock servo to see if that fixes the centering.

That being said, I'd recommend getting the ADS-15m for your 4x4.
Yes using stock Tactic radio. Funny you mention the ADS-15m because I ordered one last night from JRC??
 
So I’ve been having issues with getting the servo to center after releasing the wheel on the TX after making a turn. If I turn the wheel the other way it corrects. It just seems like the servo lacks strength to center on its own, but has plenty of power when told to go. I have to actively steer at all times. ??‍♂️

I replaced the stock servo with a 20kg servo from Amazon that was recommended at one point.

View attachment 40217
ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270°

If this is junk, lmk and I will get rid of it. What does everyone use for a 4S/6S type of car? That’s the level I want to buy.
Hey did you ever figure this out? Having the same problem with a typhon 3s. Put in a new servo thinking the stock one was going bad and its acting exactly the same. I have no clue what to do and it is quickly making me regret buying a 3s. I should have just bought my gf a 6s because both of mine have been wonderful so far.
 
Hey did you ever figure this out? Having the same problem with a typhon 3s. Put in a new servo thinking the stock one was going bad and its acting exactly the same. I have no clue what to do and it is quickly making me regret buying a 3s. I should have just bought my gf a 6s because both of mine have been wonderful so far.
Servo saver is junk
 
Do like me,20mill in all three an steering with the throttle...😅🤣😂
Hobbystar servos are cheap an bulletproof.1 front totaled typhon still works great.sheared screws right off mount

Screenshot_20211024-003605_Photos.jpg
 
Servo saver is junk
I'm using a brand new arrma 25t servo saver. two different servos, 2 different servo savers and the problem persists.
 
Do like me,20mill in all three an steering with the throttle...😅🤣😂
Hobbystar servos are cheap an bulletproof.1 front totaled typhon still works great.sheared screws right off mount

View attachment 175916
I could be wrong, but perhaps your servo was not floating above the chassis in its mount. It shouldn't touch the chassis. When the chassis flexes from bashing, the servo mount will rip out. What it looks like in your picture above. Servo looks level with the bottom of the mount supports.:unsure: Too low, touching the chassis.
I'm using a brand new arrma 25t servo saver. two different servos, 2 different servo savers and the problem persists.
Could just be a weak Servo. Binding in the belcrank somewhere? But that would be obvious.
I always run 35 kg servos at least.. Most any rig. The actual torque ratings are always overated. Sometimes by 30%+ or more. No matter the brand. So 35 kg will be plenty of torque. You can never have too much torque.
These are my favorite. Have 8 of them now across most of my bashers. Including one Crawler. None failed yet. Oldest is 2 years sold. If I get a year out of one, cheap to replace. Servos are consumable parts, with rough bashing.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOSKAY-Coreless-Digital-Stainless-arduino/dp/B07SBYZ4G5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=18MI00PCKCCLD&dchild=1&keywords=ds3235&qid=1635056935&sprefix=ds3235,aps,85&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyREFIU0QxUTdVNUlFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTYxODU1MUtGNFZJOUJGUDBJTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODY1Nzk1MjI4VU9aQlNDTFpXSyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
 
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So I’ve been having issues with getting the servo to center after releasing the wheel on the TX after making a turn. If I turn the wheel the other way it corrects. It just seems like the servo lacks strength to center on its own, but has plenty of power when told to go. I have to actively steer at all times. ??‍♂️

I replaced the stock servo with a 20kg servo from Amazon that was recommended at one point.

View attachment 40217
ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270°

If this is junk, lmk and I will get rid of it. What does everyone use for a 4S/6S type of car? That’s the level I want to buy.
I had the same issue with my upgraded Amazon steering servo, Kimbrough servo saver and hot racing assembly. I finally chucked it all and on jennys I ordered an s652 servo (off 6s cars for $16…$18.50 now) which has 23t like the 3s stock servo saver, and also got a stock 3s steering assembly (Includes the steering rack with bearings, 23t servo saver as well as the link for $1.90… $2.50 now) and dropped it in. Excellent steering for the last 6 weeks so far. I bought several more of the set ups and whenever one of my 3s cars steering starts to struggle, I’ll just drop in a new set up.

I have four 3S cars and the granite was the only one that I tried to upgrade the steering. It worked well for a couple months but then started to suffer. On the other three, 3s cars I have I’m still running the stock set ups with no issues.

Setting end points when new and then after working on it every so often really helps save the weak 3s s651 servo. It is only like 6kg after all. The s652 is 16 or 18kg (I forget) and seems plenty powerful for a 9 pound car.
 
^^^ it all depends how much ESC BEC volts, what setting you use, that will determine the torque it will give.
S652 is a weakish servo. But we all bash differently and expect different results. What works for you is all that matters. and you maintain your stuff well.
Yes, ST Endpoint settings is crucial and probably accounts for most servo breakage, no matter the brand.(y)
I still have the ADS-15 stocker servo in the V1 Infr.. Wrecked it many times. Yet this OE servo still works. AVC and all. But that is just a Fluke. Flukes happen.
Even have a DS3235 spare on the side, waiting for this ADS-15 to brick. My son beats the crap out of it. Go figure. I would never replace with OE again, or any Expensive one either. Been there. They break like the rest anyway. Been the Futaba, Savox, Hitec route before. Waste of $$ for bashing.
Just me.
 
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^^^ it all depends how much ESC BEC volts, what setting you use, that will determine the torque it will give.
S652 is a weakish servo. But we all bash differently and expect different results. What works for you is all that matters. and you maintain your stuff well.
Yes, ST Endpoint settings is crucial and probably accounts for most servo breakage, no matter the brand.(y)
I still have the ADS-15 stocker servo in the V1 Infr.. Wrecked it many times. Yet this OE servo still works. AVC and all. But that is just a Fluke. Flukes happen.
Even have a DS3235 spare on the side, waiting for this ADS-15 to brick. My son beats the crap out of it. Go figure. I would never replace with OE again, or any Expensive one either. Been there. They break like the rest anyway. Been the Futaba, Savox, Hitec route before. Waste of $$ for
I’m not a ‘hard-core’ basher but I like to jump my granite and drive it hard. The vorteks too. The other two cars have an easy life. Hell I want easy and dependable right now, got too much going on for much else. And some of the biggest stressors with this hobby so far have been trying to make upgrades work. I love the upgraded 6s shocks, quality bearings, better balls (🤣) and the dumbo transmitter. But other things, like the steering, have just frustrated the hell outta me.

Down the line though I know I’ll be stepping it up. It won’t be with 3S cars though. A good parallel that occurred to me was how I updated my 2wd Voltages too much awhile back. I learned a lot but it was a waste of money. I should have put more into 3s cars. Now I know it’s time for the next level when I get to that over upgrading point with the 3s cars. Just not yet.

I did get my brand new MT10 back up and running at least. Ran it out front for 20 min with the kid and I really do love it. The messed up steering assembly out of the box frustrated me…but since I never had anything like that happen with all of my Arrma cars, it was also rather ironic and funny. All it needed was to be taken apart and put back together and was super easy to work on. I can’t wait to get it to the skate park 😃 I also can definitely tell the difference between a slipper and center diff. I like the center diff a lot. It just seems…smother? Or something, I just like it.
I’m not a ‘hard-core’ basher but I like to jump my granite and drive it hard. The vorteks too. The other two cars have an easy life. Hell I want easy and dependable right now, got too much going on for much else. And some of the biggest stressors with this hobby so far have been trying to make upgrades work. I love the upgraded 6s shocks, quality bearings, better balls (🤣) and the dumbo transmitter. But other things, like the steering, have just frustrated the hell outta me.

Down the line though I know I’ll be stepping it up. It won’t be with 3S cars though. A good parallel that occurred to me was how I updated my 2wd Voltages too much awhile back. I learned a lot but it was a waste of money. I should have put more into 3s cars. Now I know it’s time for the next level when I get to that over upgrading point with the 3s cars. Just not yet.

I did get my brand new MT10 back up and running at least. Ran it out front for 20 min with the kid and I really do love it. The messed up steering assembly out of the box frustrated me…but since I never had anything like that happen with all of my Arrma cars, it was also rather ironic and funny. All it needed was to be taken apart and put back together and was super easy to work on. I can’t wait to get it to the skate park 😃 I also can definitely tell the difference between a slipper and center diff. I like the center diff a lot. It just seems…smother? Or something, I just like it.
I’m sure the S652 is weak on a heavier 6s car, but on an 8.4lb granite it works well. So far at least.
 
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I could be wrong, but perhaps your servo was not floating above the chassis in its mount. It shouldn't touch the chassis. When the chassis flexes from bashing, the servo mount will rip out. What it looks like in your picture above. Servo looks level with the bottom of the mount supports.:unsure: Too low, touching the chassis.

Could just be a weak Servo. Binding in the belcrank somewhere? But that would be obvious.
I always run 35 kg servos at least.. Most any rig. The actual torque ratings are always overated. Sometimes by 30%+ or more. No matter the brand. So 35 kg will be plenty of torque. You can never have too much torque.
These are my favorite. Have 8 of them now across most of my bashers. Including one Crawler. None failed yet. Oldest is 2 years sold. If I get a year out of one, cheap to replace. Servos are consumable parts, with rough bashing.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOSKAY-Coreless-Digital-Stainless-arduino/dp/B07SBYZ4G5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=18MI00PCKCCLD&dchild=1&keywords=ds3235&qid=1635056935&sprefix=ds3235,aps,85&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyREFIU0QxUTdVNUlFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTYxODU1MUtGNFZJOUJGUDBJTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODY1Nzk1MjI4VU9aQlNDTFpXSyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

Haha thats actually the servo I bought to replace the stock. I think I finally figured out what the problem was though. Really sucks being a beginner lol. I did some more digging and come to find out the steering block was damaged, snapped where the screw goes in. Assuming it happened when my girl drove it into a curb >.>.
 
Yes I agree being new is rough in thus hobby. Im still pretty fresh and damn it gets frustrating for sure. Glad u found your problem. Usually just keep looking and u will find the problem. Even if its not where u think. And it made me get real acquainted real quick with wrenching on my truck
 
Haha thats actually the servo I bought to replace the stock. I think I finally figured out what the problem was though. Really sucks being a beginner lol. I did some more digging and come to find out the steering block was damaged, snapped where the screw goes in. Assuming it happened when my girl drove it into a curb >.>.
Blame the gf love it 😂 I do that…my wife can’t drive great either.
 
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