Typhon Steering servo install

[Millpro]

I am replacing my steering servo. I have the new one in, centered and also have the spacers in. My dumb question is this, given what was in the box, I'm confused as to what screw I'm to use attaching it to the servo arm. Do you need to open the whole up on the servo arm in order to allow the black screw to go in?

Sorry for the confusion

 

[Rav3n]

That looks like the screw that goes in the center of the servo horn, holding the horn to the servo. You should have a smaller diameter screw that goes from the horn to the arm.

 

[SrC]

I take it that your rig is a 6S Typhon? That's where you posted this question
I noticed in your photo that your servo arm is plastic. Bad Idea. Don't use plastic. They come with new servos and I never use them!! Use alloy only. The Stock alu. arm is 25 spline.( again 6S rigs) Hopefully your new servo is also 25 spline.. Or you have another problem there for sure.
All 6S rigs came with Aluminum arms.
What size screw is that? M3 or M2. It looks too large.
But yes you can drill out the your plastic servo arm to fit the screw if need be.
BTW, which servo did you install???
Others may chime in with their thoughts.

 

[Millpro]

So yes typhon 6s, yes 25t.

I've drilled out the hole but it seems like there is alot of tension in that joint. The servo is struggling. The obvious solution I would think is to just bore a bigger hole?
Here is a friend's extra 25t.

 

[SrC]

Why are you not using the stock aluminum servo arm??????
I don't get that.
Also, the snugness of the screw into the arm has nothing to do with the servo binding. Its the pivot ball that should move freely. Which servo did you install and how much torque is it rated for??

 

[Rav3n]

Why are you not using the stock aluminum servo arm??????
I don't get that.
Also, the snugness of the screw into the arm has nothing to do with the servo binding. Its the pivot ball that should move freely.

Agreed.

OP- do not use plastic, that will last a half a heartbeat.

 

[Millpro]

Here's where I am at now. The arm fits, but the alignment of the arm is off.

Why are you not using the stock aluminum servo arm??????
I don't get that.
Also, the snugness of the screw into the arm has nothing to do with the servo binding. Its the pivot ball that should move freely. Which servo did you install and how much torque is it rated for??

It broke off. This is all the parts I was given in the box

Here's where I am at now. The arm fits, but the alignment of the arm is off.

It broke off. This is all the parts I was given in the box

 

[Millpro]

So here's my end result minus the screw to connect servo arm to servo.

It works, I don't like a sound I hear and I really don't like the angle of that arm that connects to the servo arm.

 

[bicketybam]

That looks like a tall servo.

 

[Millpro]

I am replacing my steering servo. I have the new one in, centered and also have the spacers in. My dumb question is this, given what was in the box, I'm confused as to what screw I'm to use attaching it to the servo arm. Do you need to open the whole up on the servo arm in order to allow the black screw to go in?

Sorry for the confusion

That looks like a tall servo.

I've seen the servo horns that are elevated like a cup? That would raise it enough.

 

[2fast4u]

That looks like a tall servo.

I will second that. Don't try to use a spacer to raise the arm at the bellcrank either. If you do the bell crank will twist every time you turn resulting in crappy steering response. I've been there, done that.

 

[bicketybam]

Is this the servo? https://www.amazon.com/Power-LW-20MG-Water-Digital-Crawler/dp/B01MU99YR9

 

[SrC]

So here's my end result minus the screw to connect servo arm to servo.

It works, I don't like a sound I hear and I really don't like the angle of that arm that connects to the servo arm.

Yeah that's a tall servo like @bicketybam stated. You just need to shim up the ball link at the bellcrank. It needs to be level. Pretty much that's done with many upgrade servos that are taller. Also, make sure the servo does NOT touch the bottom of the chassis. It must float in its servo mount. Use washers or stand offs to level it off. BTW, that yellow alloy arm is quite long. I woud keep the same mesurements as the stock arm. Go a shorter distance from the servo out put shaft to the link. Drill a new hole out if there is room on that arm. 20.44 mm is the stock measurement. going longer or even shorter is wrong for the stock ST geometry. Too long will also slow down the ST throw. And vice versa if you go to short. Arrma has it at 20mm. Come close within a 1 mm or 2. BTW You should be using the stock servo mount hardware, not those shiny self threading screws that came with the new servo. Nothing that came with the servo should be used. Absolutely Reuse the old hardware where you can. The rubber bushings that came with the stock servo should be eliminated however. When all is mounted and working, set your endpoints correctly at the Radio. If you don't, the servo will be short lived, also stressing the Front CVD joints beyond specs.

 

[SrC]

I will second that. Don't try to use a spacer to raise the arm at the bellcrank either. If you do the bell crank will twist every time you turn resulting in crappy steering response. I've been there, done that.

I think he put a spacer at the Servo mount where he shouldn't have. Made it even taller.

 

[Millpro]

Thank you for the details. Here's why I'm in this bind. This typhon was bought privately. I just got it last week while waiting for the kraton and typhon to be delivered. It wasn't until I drive it hard and broke the servo saver that I realized the entire servo was team associated! I'm just trying to get the proper parts and fix it properly. The servo I selected was actually picked by the hobby shop. Most screws and spacers were already mix match so I've been basically forced to use what came in the box. The yellow arm is just a piece I ordered off amazon in a hopes of a quick fix. That servo came with a poopy plastic piece I was told not to use.
So to be clear, I should raise the arm up at the other end making the arm level?

 

[SrC]

Just buy the correct Arrma servo arm. And be done with it the correct way. That's where all your problems are aside from the taller servo. The stock arm has a taller profile and allows the ball link to attach from the bottom. This will level out the the link. The one you have is just a wrong universal type part.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR340061

 

[Millpro]

I think he put a spacer at the Servo mount where he shouldn't have. Made it even taller.

The servo cannot go any lower on the truck body. All spacers are removed.

The servo cannot go any lower on the truck body. All spacers are removed. The servo just seems taller

The servo cannot go any lower on the truck body. All spacers are removed. This is the servo resting on the truck bed. Removing the spasers where the screws go in will not lower the servo as it can't go any lower.

 

[SrC]

^^^Then I will assume the servo is flat touching the chassis at the bottom. No good.
If you shim it up at least 1-2 mm with a washer or 2 to get it off the chassis and then USE the correct servo arm, you will be good to go. Maybe a washer may be needed to level the linkage worst case. I have many universal alloy arms, and they just don't work on the 6S rigs. Tried them all. You need the stock arm. And you need a tiny drop of Thread locker on the spline screw when you install the arm to the servo, or you will strip the arm or servos splines.

 

[SrC]

Thank you for the details. Here's why I'm in this bind. This typhon was bought privately. I just got it last week while waiting for the kraton and typhon to be delivered. It wasn't until I drive it hard and broke the servo saver that I realized the entire servo was team associated! I'm just trying to get the proper parts and fix it properly. The servo I selected was actually picked by the hobby shop. Most screws and spacers were already mix match so I've been basically forced to use what came in the box. The yellow arm is just a piece I ordered off amazon in a hopes of a quick fix. That servo came with a poopy plastic piece I was told not to use.
So to be clear, I should raise the arm up at the other end making the arm level?

Like others have stated, raising the arm level with spacers may cause flexing and is not correct for hard bashing at least. You will need too much spacing to make it level. Because your servo is slightly taller (not a big deal), and the your servo arm adds insult to injury by being way off not correct and causes the level of the arm to be way off.
I will use spacers to a limit however (1-3mm). That's acceptable. But in your situation not recommended. You'll need like 5+mm. A slamming the servo itself to the chassis is just not done. Again, it must float above the chassis. even if only1 or 2 mm. One reason, is you can break the ears of the servo easily.