Infraction Steering servo upgrade?

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Kevin_McCubbin

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Location
Chicago Suburbs
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
  3. Typhon 6s
  4. Typhon TLR
I recently installed the Castle MMX8S in my infraction along with the Castle 1717-1650 which is an absolute beast. However my steering is terrible now. I’m not sure if I need to turn up the voltage on the ESC for the servo to respond quicker or just replace it w a quicker one. I would like one that is quick and waterproof. I don’t want to spend $250 but I would spend $150 on a good quick servo that can turn the car quickly. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
How are you driving your infraction? Speed may not be your issue. It rarely is with most servos in an On road rig., unless it is worn out. Def. change out the servo if it is the stocker in there. But any strong servo from 25kg to 35kg will have plenty of power and speed for the Infraction. And the stocker servo is just junk to begin with. Don't compare its speed with another servo. It is an analog Servo to begin with. And cant eve keep up with ST AVC (gyro)
You are obviously not Speed Running if you are concerned with a FAST servo.

This is what I use in my Lim. And I even turn down the speed a bit. You may have binding front Pivot balls. Disconnect your servo arm and check that the ST is free left to right.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBYZ4G...wg=L28th&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img
 
I have the stock Servo in but recently it got extremely slow and it barely has any travel. My dx5C is set to 100% on the steering gain. I thought if I turned up the voltage in the esc it may help because it is so slow now that it is a liability.
 
I use the infraction to primarily bash and drift however recently I have been doing speed runs with it. I want to run over 100 a few times just to do it and then just continue to bash w it. But speed runs suck w a slow weak servo.
 
How are you driving your infraction? Speed may not be your issue. It rarely is with most servos in an On road rig., unless it is worn out. Def. change out the servo if it is the stocker in there. But any strong servo from 25kg to 35kg will have plenty of power and speed for the Infraction. And the stocker servo is just junk to begin with. Don't compare its speed with another servo. It is an analog Servo to begin with. And cant eve keep up with ST AVC (gyro)
You are obviously not Speed Running if you are concerned with a FAST servo.

This is what I use in my Lim. And I even turn down the speed a bit. You may have binding front Pivot balls. Disconnect your servo arm and check that the ST is free left to right.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBYZ4G...wg=L28th&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img
I ordered and installed the new servo. Seems to be much quicker and stronger. I also made sure the voltage was at 7.5v on the esc. I also noticed after installing it that the entire steering linkage needed to be cleaned and lubricated. Even w the 35 kg servo if I turned the wheel to the left it would not completely return to center and would get stuck turning slightly to the left. I used WD-40 which usually helps to get the dirt out and lubricate things very well in the short term. After working it into the steering linkages and moving it right to left it Was like new again. But, I’m wondering if there is something that should be replaced in the steering itself.
 
What you are describing is very tight Pivot Balls at the hubs. They may need be cleaned and adjusted for looseness. Just tight enough for the Whole ST linkage to move left and right freely. WD 40 will loosen things up. But then the WD40 remaining will gum up and attract more dirt. If you decide to lube the 4 pivot balls (only), Use a Dry wax lube like Chain Saver, by Dupont. WD40 just quickly loosens binding and stuck components. It is NOT a permanent lubricant. It lubricates no better than Water would IMHO. Shortly after it makes a mess of all the joints, especially in the dirt and grass. It gums up and attracts dirt, this wears out all the parts. Binding will happen again. Keep using WD40 when it binds again you can see it is just a band-aid product. Used for all around the house, just does not do any one thing best. It is just a cheap brand solvent. Solvents are for cleaning. Just my spin. :cool:

Edit: Have you changed out the (4) Stock Brass ST Bushings for Ball bearings yet??
 
What you are describing is very tight Pivot Balls at the hubs. They may need be cleaned and adjusted for looseness. Just tight enough for the Whole ST linkage to move left and right freely. WD 40 will loosen things up. But then the WD40 remaining will gum up and attract more dirt. If you decide to lube the 4 pivot balls (only), Use a Dry wax lube like Chain Saver, by Dupont. WD40 just quickly loosens binding and stuck components. It is NOT a permanent lubricant. It lubricates no better than Water would IMHO. Shortly after it makes a mess of all the joints, especially in the dirt and grass. It gums up and attracts dirt, this wears out all the parts. Binding will happen again. Keep using WD40 when it binds again you can see it is just a band-aid product. Used for all around the house, just does not do any one thing best. It is just a cheap brand solvent. Solvents are for cleaning. Just my spin. :cool:

Edit: Have you changed out the (4) Stock Brass ST Bushings for Ball bearings yet??
I know this about WD40 but couldn’t resist a quick fix before putting the car away for the night. You are 100% correct though. I need a dry lubricant maybe like a Teflon type lubricant or some of the dry lubricants I use on my semi automatic pistols so they are not greasy. I didn’t know there was a ball bearing kit. But I definitely need to do that ASAP. Do you have a link or part numbers?
 
^^^^
At least you understand WD40. Its ok for trouble shooting and cleaning etc. Just not any permanent solution and can work against you.
Pistol dry lubes are good. 👍

You need (4) 6 x 10 x 3mm BB's. For the steering posts.

FastEddy , TRBRC , Avid and Jims Bearings come to mind.. Sealed BB's. Get them separately or in a complete replacement kit for the whole rig.
Best to just buy the whole BB kit. More cost effective. You will normally need to replace BB's throughout your rig. They are consumables and wear out.

>>https://trbrc.com/trb-rc-6x10x3mm-precision-ball-bearings-abec-3-rubber-sealed-10/

>>https://trbrc.com/arrma-kraton-notorious-outcast-senton-talion-typhon-6s-blx-bearing-kit-22/

:cool:
 
35kg is a must for any 6s offroad rig. The rigs drive much more responsive to ST input. 👍
AMZ just delivered my 7th DS3235, for my Infr.
None of the others have broken yet. I beat the crap out of them.
Slowly upgrading to 35kg on all my 6s rigs and even my On Road 1/7 rigs.

20210409_121720.jpg
 
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