Limitless Stiffer springs, oil recommendation?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hers my 1/10 car I'm working on at the moment. All t-buckles..if your road isn't smooth enough to run buckles at 100mph..then you'll need to find a better road to reach 130++ anyway..
Heres my road,no problems running tbuckles at all.

16481685450974668774103538375468.jpg


16481685864804163298114102953852.jpg
 
Hers my 1/10 car I'm working on at the moment. All t-buckles..if your road isn't smooth enough to run buckles at 100mph..then you'll need to find a better road to reach 130++ anyway..
Heres my road,no problems running tbuckles at all.

View attachment 208394

View attachment 208395
Ok thanks. My road is decent enough. Still have to check out the new road which will be a game changer for me if it works out. I’ll look through my stuff and do some Google-fu if needed and find something that works.
 
I drive straight and fast with this car, that's pretty much it.
What does your road look like? I'm softening my ride because the road sucks. If you have a smooth surface stiffer is better to a point.
What I had lying around. View attachment 208410
This is a bad idea because you have created an infinite spring rate. What happens is every imperfection in the road surface is transmitted directly to your chassis and it will skip like a stone on water. It also puts undue stress on the other suspension components and something will break.

Suspension is there for a reason.

You'll be better off limiting travel if you have a very smooth surface.
 
Last edited:
What does your road look like? I'm softening my ride because the road sucks. If you have a smooth surface stiffer is better to a point.

This is a bad idea because you have created an infinite spring rate. What happens is every imperfection in the road surface is transmitted directly to your chassis and it will skip like a stone on water. It also puts undue stress on the other suspension components and something will break.

Suspension is there for a reason.

You'll be better off limiting travel if you have a very smooth surface.
Well no offense but the guys that are running 150+ have it setup with turnbuckles. Like @K-BASH said above. Look at Innovation RC for example. Raz took his springs off completely and just locked the shocks.
 
Well no offense but the guys that are running 150+ have it setup with turnbuckles. Like @K-BASH said above. Look at Innovation RC for example. Raz took his springs off completely and just locked the shocks.
None taken. I'm working off from full size car knowledge and I've been air borne more than a 747, so I'm very cautious. There is race track setup and street setup. Two completely different things. Race track setup on the street results in bent things, like strut towers, control arms, wheels. . .

Also I might change my tune if I ever get to 150mph. I suspect what is happening is your control arms, tires and other bits are becoming the suspension.

BTW your road looks like glass compared to anything I can find around here. We also have turtles and they bad for RCs.
1648176036025.png
 
None taken. I'm working off from full size car knowledge and I've been air borne more than a 747, so I'm very cautious. There is race track setup and street setup. Two completely different things. Race track setup on the street results in bent things, like strut towers, control arms, wheels. . .

Also I might change my tune if I ever get to 150mph. I suspect what is happening is your control arms, tires and other bits are becoming the suspension.

BTW your road looks like glass compared to anything I can find around here. We also have turtles and they bad for RCs.
View attachment 208414
Same here with the full size knowledge. That’s why it was hard for me to do this. But now that I’m in the 130’s I need to get some input from some of these guys. And I have the turtles. That’s why I’m looking for a new road. So I can run down the center.


Ok so got the front all done. Here’s the rake. Thoughts everybody? @K-BASH Rear still has shocks but I have the new super duper stiff springs in so it barely moves down. Thinking I should send it this Saturday.
C5D16483-5DF1-40C0-AD23-1A84B77F71EF.jpeg
A478DED5-C25B-4461-9425-79D4D866D41D.jpeg
52738028-703D-47BF-9929-475142EB4B52.jpeg
 
None taken. I'm working off from full size car knowledge and I've been air borne more than a 747, so I'm very cautious. There is race track setup and street setup. Two completely different things. Race track setup on the street results in bent things, like strut towers, control arms, wheels. . .

Also I might change my tune if I ever get to 150mph. I suspect what is happening is your control arms, tires and other bits are becoming the suspension.

BTW your road looks like glass compared to anything I can find around here. We also have turtles and they bad for RCs.
View attachment 208414

Same here with the full size knowledge. That’s why it was hard for me to do this. But now that I’m in the 130’s I need to get some input from some of these guys. And I have the turtles. That’s why I’m looking for a new road. So I can run down the center.


Ok so got the front all done. Here’s the rake. Thoughts everybody? @K-BASH Rear still has shocks but I have the new super duper stiff springs in so it barely moves down. Thinking I should send it this Saturday. View attachment 208416View attachment 208417View attachment 208418
rake looks good,ya want front end scraping ground when braking on big end...check out JON LEWIS on utube.....some of his resent videos are on this exact subject.....he has been having downforce ride height issues with his infraction gt car.....
can also remove sway bars down the road....just extra weight an useless for speedrunning.rear wings must be set just right on gt cars also or it'll blowover....if your running 130s make small changes cause getting to 130s is easy,getting into 140s is much harder...most give up before 150s...
 
Last edited:
rake looks good,ya want front end scraping ground when braking on big end...check out JON LEWIS on utube.....some of his resent videos are on this exact subject.....he has been having downforce ride height issues with his infraction gt car.....
can also remove sway bars down the road....just extra weight an useless for speedrunning.rear wings must be set just right on gt cars also or it'll blowover....if your running 130s make small changes cause getting to 130s is easy,getting into 140s is much harder...most give up before 150s...
Rear wing doesn’t have downforce. If it does very little. Angle is nothing/minimal.
58BE10C1-105A-4395-AFD5-628096EA27BB.jpeg
C15DF0D9-B215-425D-AE88-42FA8890CAF8.jpeg
 
Wing looks goooood...ya you want to keep it on the ground. @rotauq was it to much wing that caused this ????rot has nothing but GREAT addvise everytime..he knows his $hit..
 
It's always a combination of ride heigth, suspension travel, rake and front vs rear downforce. (and a little weight distribution)

Rear suspension travel should be near zero(basically the flexing of the A arms is sufficient)
Front suspension travel should have some play. You do want it to press down a little during a run, but with the rear basically locked that does mean the rake increases during the run and too much take will take away the benefit of the diffuser. On the pictures above i'd say the rake is a little too much (even if the front does not compress down). In any case rake should be measured while the suspension is fully compressed, not in a free state.

I wouldn't say the wing on my video above was too much, angle wasnt that high. But a little to far behind the rear axle, attached to the body not the chassis and the PF C8 body just lacks front downforce. So the backflip was mainly caused by an inbalance between front and rear downforce. For that reason i stopped using that body for speedruns.

Personally i've also stopped using flat angled wings. Aside from downforce they do add extra drag. single/multiple segment wing shapes provide simular downforce with less drag and therefor again make the diffuser more efficient.

1648204511001.png


Long story short. If it sticks to the road, you don't need more downforce at the rear. It's about the front and the bottom.

And obviously hitting something at high speed is always problematic...
 
It's always a combination of ride heigth, suspension travel, rake and front vs rear downforce. (and a little weight distribution)

Rear suspension travel should be near zero(basically the flexing of the A arms is sufficient)
Front suspension travel should have some play. You do want it to press down a little during a run, but with the rear basically locked that does mean the rake increases during the run and too much take will take away the benefit of the diffuser. On the pictures above i'd say the rake is a little too much (even if the front does not compress down). In any case rake should be measured while the suspension is fully compressed, not in a free state.
When you say the rake is a little too much, do you mean to bring the rear down some?
 
In race cars, too much rake will spoil the airflow under the belly pan that makes downforce. If your car squats to the point where it's near level across the bottom at speed, then you're good, but it is not optimal if it stays wedged. Let the splitter do its work splitting air, not spooning it over the front. The low pressure zone under the car is also ruined by diffuser length and angle, and the diffuser on Arrma cars is definitely on the decorative side. Aero is all or nothing. I don't do speed runs per se, but everything I've ever learned about race cars applies to RC, and I have built and raced a 150 mph full-scale car. You bet there are barriers in getting there!
 
When you say the rake is a little too much, do you mean to bring the rear down some?
You measurements are in inches right? (i didn't realise this when i first looked, for the splitter to be effective you'll need to lower the front too)
front: 1/2 inch ~ 12.5mm
Rear: 17/16 inch ~ 27mm
(not squated?) angle 1.7deg

Mine is currently: (not saying this is ideal, but works optimal for my roads)
front: 6mm
Rear (at the chassis) 16mm
(squated) angle 1.2deg

So the angle isn't too bad, the splitter can cope with 2+% imho
Just your ride height is quite high. So you'll catch a lot of air under the car. Less low pressure.

A good test is to drive the car without the body. If it doesn't go straight on like 60% power out, ride height and rake are not ideal.
 
You measurements are in inches right? (i didn't realise this when i first looked, for the splitter to be effective you'll need to lower the front too)
front: 1/2 inch ~ 12.5mm
Rear: 17/16 inch ~ 27mm
(not squated?) angle 1.7deg

Mine is currently: (not saying this is ideal, but works optimal for my roads)
front: 6mm
Rear (at the chassis) 16mm
(squated) angle 1.2deg

So the angle isn't too bad, the splitter can cope with 2+% imho
Just your ride height is quite high. So you'll catch a lot of air under the car. Less low pressure.

A good test is to drive the car without the body. If it doesn't go straight on like 60% power out, ride height and rake are not ideal.
Noted. Thanks. I’m gonna go take a drive into the Florida Everglades now and check out a new road. Hopefully it’s the one I’m looking for. Maybe I’ll wrestle some alligators while I’m out there.
 
So I’m gonna back up and punt. Those stiff springs were more trouble than they’re worth. Too stiff to set droop without stripping out the arm. Put the stock springs back on the rear and did the Raz trick of putting nitro tubing on the shock shaft. I don’t have any shorter tie rods for the front to get lower as @rotauq suggested, so I’ll probably use the stock springs and shocks again or maybe the stiff spring but not preloaded all the way. It’s a learning experience for sure but I’m enjoying it.
 
What does your road look like? I'm softening my ride because the road sucks. If you have a smooth surface stiffer is better to a point.

This is a bad idea because you have created an infinite spring rate. What happens is every imperfection in the road surface is transmitted directly to your chassis and it will skip like a stone on water. It also puts undue stress on the other suspension components and something will break.

Suspension is there for a reason.

You'll be better off limiting travel if you have a very smooth surface.
Agreed. And more so for me because unlike the other speed runners, my builds go in the opposite direction in the sense that weight is good. It's a juggling act though. Too little and you're airborne. Too much and the chassis slap sends you...yep.......airborne.
Maybe it's really all about if you want a light or hard landing...lol
 
after lots of trial an error im haveing a blast running my 1/10 mini typon that weights under 7lbs.car is very small an has a 36mm tp an 8s esc...can only fit a 4s pack in it...103mph so far..got lot more....ive learned alot with weight distrabution an downforce...the slightest change affects car drasticly...YOU CAN RUN A VERY LIGHT SETUP WITH THE RIGHT DIST. AN D-FORCE..very fun test an tune car
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top