Kraton Stock Controller is BAD

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So... it takes 2.5 hours to charge the batteries with the charger I have, and the car runs for 35-40 minutes. I got in 4 charges today. I could have sworn that it wasn't always turning left the first time I drove it, but I never felt that again. The two issues I have with the controller after using it all day is that it rarely goes in reverse on the first try and that it seems "off center". I have the car aligned very well now after messing with it after each run. This last one it seemed to go straight as an arrow when you let off the wheel. I finally realized the issue... when you turn the car and controller on with the controller centered the wheels turn right a little bit, and you have to ajust the trim left a little to bring them back to how they are with the car and controller off. Once I figured that out, I had it running straight very quickly. Since I am not doing big jumps where I need reverse to be reliable (it seems to brake every time, just not reverse) that doesn't bother me too much, I'll be able to live with this controller at first. Since I can still barely drive anyway, haha. The car is amazing. It's everything I thought it would be. I only flipped it over 3 times all day and this is a somewhat bounce natural field. The car glides over it much better than I thought it would, you can easily go a lot faster that I thought I'd be able to go on it and in clings to the ground in turns even over this rough and bumpy terrain for something it's size. I didn't have any problems with anything all day long... except...

Is there a trick to taking out and putting in the body pins? Or some kind of cheap tool that helps with it. I can barely get them in, and getting them out when you have to either pull them or push the pointy side is VERY hard. The body pins are the hardest part of this so far, haha!

A good charger is a good investment in this hobby, like I tell everyone always buy a charger that exceeds your current needs, that way you don't have to buy a new charger when you get bigger and more batteries. I would suggest a minimum of a 300w charger and also would suggest something DC and get an external psu. The Turnigy Reaktor chargers are pretty good( we have a thread someplace in the electronics section with links and info on various chargers).

Needle-nosed pliers FTW (y)
This^
I have a small one I toss in my tools when I go out to bash.
 
It's suppose to brake first then go into reverse. If it went from forward to reverse immediately; you would be replacing a part of the drive train more often than not...

Also used a drill bit to open the body pin holes slightly. Much easier now to remove and reinstall...
 
Body Pins:
New to the Kraton my biggest complaint so far is changing the batteries because of the difficulty with the pins. I have switched to Pro-Line Raceing 607002. Not without issue and the jury is still out. I almost got the E-Revo 2 just for the quick body release.

Chargers:
I moved up from a Rustler with 3S lipos now trying to charge 6s 5000s and facing 2.5 hour charge times. Now using a SKYRC B6 Nano DUO, small AC/DC, 200watts, bluetooth, scan and charge, $120. Cut my charge times in half. I have many chargers, 3 of them SKYRC, and this is my favorite.

Reverse:
I spent hours trying to figure out why I had intermittent reverse and it turns out that I simply did not understand how it was supposed to work. Once you give the car a forward command you MUST give it a FULL brake command THEN and neutral THEN it will respond to a reverse command.
 
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