stock esc + hobbywing 5687(1100kv) vs 56113(800kv) which one is better?

[Armarookie43]

I had seen the long can 1100's advertised on some of the direct from China sites when I was looking for my K8s EXB. Happy I supported my local store and got the 800kv max5 pack instead now.

Can't seem to find any mention of the 1100kv long can now when I'm searching. Maybe I'm too old for this stuff.

I wouldn't be buying something like that. It sounds like a fake one. I only buy from hobbywing directly, my LHS or any other trust worthy website like Amain when it comes to purchasing motors /esc.

 

[Jimbobjr]

Hobbystar has a 56112 980kv. Primal rc has a 56113 960kv. Besides the leopard options and tp are there any other higher kv options in the 56112/3 motors?

 

[rotauq]

There is a direct correlation between can size and winding that can fit. Max KV's for specific voltages will go down the longer the can.

But why worry, you can always gear up or down (as long as it fits mechanically).

 

[Raginbull74]

I'm running a 5687/max5 combo 30/39.
Perfect balance imo.....

 

[Armarookie43]

I'm running a 5687/max5 combo 30/39.
Perfect balance imo.....

Same gearing that I'm running on my Outcast 8s, but I'm running the XLX2 and 1100kv motor from Castle. For my kind of bashing it's perfect

 

[wadedog]

I’m about finished with my stretched typhon I put hobbywing 1650 kv &max6 .Question what pinon gear I have 22t -25t with Grp tire Iplan on doing some speed run with it

 

[afreek1000]

For what it’s worth, here’s my K8S on max 5 / 800kv at 39/39 gearing.

IMO a great setup with a lot of headroom on power.

I’ve ran the 1100kv in the past w/adjusted gearing.

While they do spin faster, I found it to overheat frequently, eventually I killed that motor from too much heat.

Though the 800kv is a bit heavier, it runs so much more efficiently and cooler. All you need to do is gear up to gain the comparable speed of the 1100kv.

 

[Armarookie43]

For what it’s worth, here’s my K8S on max 5 / 800kv at 39/39 gearing.

IMO a great setup with a lot of headroom on power.

I’ve ran the 1100kv in the past w/adjusted gearing.

While they do spin faster, I found it to overheat frequently, eventually I killed that motor from too much heat.

Though the 800kv is a bit heavier, it runs so much more efficiently and cooler. All you need to do is gear up to gain the comparable speed of the 1100kv.

You kept over overheating it and never went down in gearing or at least put fans on it?

 

[afreek1000]

Had dual 35mm fans on motor, gearing on 1100kv: 21/35 mod 1.5

 

[Armarookie43]

Had dual 35mm fans on motor, gearing on 1100kv: 21/35 mod 1.5

Yeah that motor is kind of small for the K8S. I use the longer Castle 2028 1100kv motor. High powered fans on it

 

[MrWednesday]

You will get more torque with a lower KV, not necessarily get higher revs. and faster speeds. Going with the lower KV motor, plan on gearing up the pinion size at the same time. Have you tried gearing up the stock motor first? Most guys are gearing up before they think about swapping motors and ESC's. To get the most of the stock setup, try gearing up first. But that's your call, your wallet. Others may chime in.
The differnce between 1100kv and 1250kv is small. Performance that can vary from brand to brand of motors. KV is not defined well enough and is a rough guide IMHO. When you get KVs that are close(within 150kv of each other like above), it’s the luck of the draw which will be higher revving or has more torque. Of course name brands like TP or Poseidon will have the best performance by comparison to mainstream or stock motors within given specs. Diameter and length of armature generally determines the torque and speed.

2 years late to the party, but won’t gearing up the stock create more heat than is desirable? The 1100 being a 56 can should be able to handle higher gearing much better and deliver high speeds with less heat. If it were the same can 1250 vs 1100 would be marginal at best. But that’s not really the case here. The 1100 is an upgrade because of the fact that you can run the bigger gears with less heat, add a max 5 and you’ll be running ice cubes all around

 

[SrC]

Heat with taller gearing is relative. Are many other motor variables. And will always vary due to weight and load placed on the rig in front of you.
An adequate cooling solution is always a given.
Hope I am not over simplifying this response to your question above.

 

[MrWednesday]

Heat with taller gearing is relative. Are many other motor variables. And will always vary due to weight and load placed on the rig in front of you.
An adequate cooling solution is always a given.
Hope I am not over simplifying this response to your question above.

You cannot over simplify enough with me, I can almost 100% guarantee you know more about this stuff than I do. But I got the 1100 for my Outcast 8S EXB with a max 5 ESC, up from the standard 1250/160a spek. I ran the 1200 on a 34t pin and I run the 1100 on 36t both with stock spur. I also have a ridiculous cooling system. I just made a post about it last week. Essentially it’s a rechargeable battery powered duster/vacuum that I modified to cool my motor and inserted a power bank so it could last as long as my 10000 mAh 120C Hoovos.

It just grabs SOOO much nicer at lower rpm’s, when I pull on the trigger… if I want it… it jumps. If I ripped off the wheelie bar, be doing standing backflips I bet. Now maybe you could tell inexperienced me, is it the ESC or the motor? A combination of both? Because if I’m being honest, I’m about two months into this hobby and yes, I debuted with a monster of a vehicle . I am well-versed in lipo care and I keep this truck absolutely immaculate, spotless after every run. I don’t know how I ever lived before this hobby. I tore it down completely as soon as I bought it. Every single little/big screw, took apart the diffs took apart the servo, filled up all the fluids, cleaned rubber sealed bearings and lubed them, thredlock where necessary. I learned this thing inside and out. But I know my lane, and that is one of a newbie, a well educated newbie we’ll say. But still just a noob.

 

[Moirae]

You cannot over simplify enough with me, I can almost 100% guarantee you know more about this stuff than I do. But I got the 1100 for my Outcast 8S EXB with a max 5 ESC, up from the standard 1250/160a spek. I ran the 1200 on a 34t pin and I run the 1100 on 36t both with stock spur. I also have a ridiculous cooling system. I just made a post about it last week. Essentially it’s a rechargeable battery powered duster/vacuum that I modified to cool my motor and inserted a power bank so it could last as long as my 10000 mAh 120C Hoovos.

It just grabs SOOO much nicer at lower rpm’s, when I pull on the trigger… if I want it… it jumps. If I ripped off the wheelie bar, be doing standing backflips I bet. Now maybe you could tell inexperienced me, is it the ESC or the motor? A combination of both? Because if I’m being honest, I’m about two months into this hobby and yes, I debuted with a monster of a vehicle . I am well-versed in lipo care and I keep this truck absolutely immaculate, spotless after every run. I don’t know how I ever lived before this hobby. I tore it down completely as soon as I bought it. Every single little/big screw, took apart the diffs took apart the servo, filled up all the fluids, cleaned rubber sealed bearings and lubed them, thredlock where necessary. I learned this thing inside and out. But I know my lane, and that is one of a newbie, a well educated newbie we’ll say. But still just a noob.

Man, I wish I had the patience to do all of that.

 

[MrWednesday]

I’m in recovery, so this is literally all I do, apart from being a single dad to a 5 & a 6 year old. Keeps me focused on my trucks problems instead of my own, plus it ties up all my disposable income. Perfect.