Stock Kraton motor hitting 205 degrees - Alternative motor cooling solutions

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I was thinking more that running WOT a lot is just pushing a lot of current/volts through the motor causing it to heat up more... so in that vein, higher rpm wouldn't really affect it regardless of gearing as even if you geared it taller, it would still pull the amps trying to get there.

I just know I read that if the esc is hot, gear down, if the motor is hot, gear up... but now that I think on it more, perhaps it's not the RPM's that's heating it up but rather the user using WOT because they want speed. With taller gearing, you get more speed so maybe it's suggested to gear up for a hot motor just for the side effect of the user letting off earlier due to hitting a jump or corner at whatever speed without having the motor fully spooled up. By letting off earlier, they are pulling less amps for less time.
Idk... maybe it’s situational. In my experience though, if my motor gets hot, and I drop a few teeth on the pinion, it cools right down.
 
Gear up. Volt down. Gear down, volt up. The very general rule. Somewhere in the middle is where your useable torque is attainable. All of this is based on what you are running, where you are running. ECS/motor KV and weight of rig.
Did you notice one Video of the K8S running at 6S and attaining a very high speed using a 23T pinion if I am correct.. Just one example. Motor and ESC were not stock. I believe it was a Castle 200amp with a Castle motor. Speed run setups generally try to max out the RPMs. But they are driven for 5-10 sec. bursts. RC Drag pulls are even more demanding. Off road driving requires more of a balance at midrange throttling. IMO. There is so much to this topic. And so many variables. Driving style and terrain is where you start. Like racers on a Track, they have to balance out the power to accommodate the rig to the track.
Innovation RC did another awesome video. K8S running 6S.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...834AC4EDF2FC245F9AEE834AC4EDF2FC&&FORM=VRDGAR
 
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A short video of the driving in the specific bash spot would be helpful.
Another thing I'd like to see is to slide the motor out if V4 or pull the pinion gear and video how it rolls also without the motor pulling on it. It should roll very easily and far with a push.
 
Bricked bearings is usually the culprit. Or at least the most overlooked. An axel can rotate on a frozen bearing at the inner race. That bearing may appear to be fine while rolling it on the bench. But at high speed under use it creates much friction and will bind up under real actual load.
Removing a bearing is the best way to check it. I just had one axel bearing lock up on me. Fairly new bearing set (Kraton 6S). It was a DSM brand which comes with Marine grade grease, or so they say. The bearing looked dry when I popped the seals. The inner race was galling to the axel hub. It appeared to roll free, but when I removed the bearing it was bricked. The balls flat spotted. These inner bearings(15mmx21mmx4) are under sized for the loads they encounter The Balls are too small. And they just cant handle the radial load for this application. That's why many use the HR hubs with the oversize bearings.(y) I eat these bearings. Mostly at the rears. Most do. Arrma should have addressed this. But that's another story.
 
Bricked bearings is usually the culprit. Or at least the most overlooked. An axel can rotate on a frozen bearing at the inner race. That bearing may appear to be fine while rolling it on the bench. But at high speed under use it creates much friction and will bind up under real actual load.
Removing a bearing is the best way to check it. I just had one axel bearing lock up on me. Fairly new bearing set (Kraton 6S). It was a DSM brand which comes with Marine grade grease, or so they say. The bearing looked dry when I popped the seals. The inner race was galling to the axel hub. It appeared to roll free, but when I removed the bearing it was bricked. The balls flat spotted. These inner bearings(15mmx21mmx4) are under sized for the loads they encounter The Balls are too small. And they just cant handle the radial load for this application. That's why many use the HR hubs with the oversize bearings.(y) I eat these bearings. Mostly at the rears. Most do. Arrma should have addressed this. But that's another story.
How to fix the rear hub bearing issues.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/bearings-mayhem.5415/
 
I already switched to cvd's at the rear and still bricked those bearings after a thorough complete rebuild. All new bearings.
 
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