I've never ran connector adapters before so I'm not sure. They should all fit snugly together and stay that way. I'd consider using electrical tape to keep them securely joined and use a temp gun to check temps not just on the motor and ESC, but on the wires and connections also perhaps. Resistance leads to heat gains. You might be clued into a potential issue if you notice one wire getting hotter with use.
It's roughly 63-65mph. I hit 61 with 16 tooth, but can't recall which tires I was running.
@Rich Duperbash
It's lighter and has considerable torque no doubt. I'll get back to you about a comparison soon. The Hobbystar 1730 has more torque, but you can only use it if you can get the power to the ground. That's not easy in dry dirt conditions.
I can't recall if you mentioned what your diff set up is? I'm running 50/200/20k front to rear in my Kraton. If you go too heavy in the center, it likely transfers too much power to the rear wheels and will contribute to wheelies. Conversely, too light and you bleed power to the fronts with more ballooning. You could play with suspension setups, ride height, and preload. The lower the ride, the less you will wheelie up. If you get the rear to squat more on throttle, you should get more power down and not wheelie. Not sure how you're applying the throttle, but try easing into it. This is key to modulating propulsion and maximizing motor efficiency to your tires and running surface. Use your ears at least as much as your eyes. Your trigger finger should fall into sync with the RPM/motor and tire sounds.
This isn't a race rig. To each his own. I love my setup and how it handles. I've ran lighter setups before. 200k is no where near locked and nothing like a spool. Have you tried going heavier??? If not please don't pass presumed judgement.
Sorry my reply was so blunt. My apologies. Think I miss interpreted your comment. I found awhile back that I could greatly control front wheel ballooning by running thicker center diff oils. Without it, the moment weight shifts backwards on throttle, the center diff wants to transfer more power to the fronts or "bleed power". To me it's like loosing power. The car will steer nicely like having front wheel drive, but only if ballooning and front wheelspin isn't too bad with the lighter fluid. Too heavy in the center and you will wheelie a bit too much perhaps. These fluids get super heated during use and I personally feel my gears are safer and last longer with heavier weights based on my own experience anyhow. I've had serious doubts myself when experimenting with different weights, but can honestly only get full power to the ground and manage ballooning with something close to my current setup.
The diff fluids are all personal preference in the end. The rear is probably the least important of the three in terms of tuning. Remember the front and rear only control left to right wheel diff action not front to back power transfer. Make sure you're truck sits about arm level with the pack in it. It should return to arm level after you drop your rig from 1-2 feet. I'd say experiment with some different setups until your rig feels dialed to your liking. I'm still running 50 weight front with orange Teknos, 40 weight rear with yellow. Waiting for V3 Kraton shocks to arrive shortly. If your front is lifting like mad, consider going 100-200k center diff and dial your punch to around 4-6 if it's say 8-10 now. Having some toe out up front will also help control stability at speed. Lastly, make sure your steering rack, pillow balls, and links are all healthy and same for your tires. Out of control can come from or be exasperated by several factors besides a heavy finger...Lol!!!@Rich Duperbash
I've got 100/500/10 setup. I thought that running this thick in the mid would really allow the needed power equalization to the front and rear diffs. Do I need to thicken up the rear fluid? Rear fluid is stock, which I think is only 10k if not mistaken. Would it also be a good idea to thin out the mid fluid to 100 or 200k?
As far as suspension, I've done nothing other than replace stick springs with the recommended orange Tenkos.
In regards to throttle control, it doesn't matter, this beast cannot be controlled on pavement!
I never run smaller than 16 tooth Robinson Racing Extra Hard in any of my Arrmas. Running 18 tooth 6s in my Outcast Hybrid, but it's lighter and running Proline Shockwaves. Just get a temp gun to be safe and check during/after temps. Keep Motor in the happy zone 140-150F range. A wee higher, no problem. 170F plus, getting too toasty.
You're welcome brother. I'm still waiting for my updated shocks in the mail. I can tell you right now they are better...Lol. 4mm shafts are surprisingly stronger than 3.5s. The new longer springs are improved also from credible sources anyways. Not sure if the pistons, other internals or rod ends are radically improved, but the shafts are a huge upgrade alone. I'm definitely big air testing them the day they arrive if possible. The 5mm GPM shocks I bought I simply can't get the dampening I'm after. Need to find different pistons and maybe try with softer springs. They feel like Frigging pogo sticks
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