Granite Stopping wheelies / Keeping Granite BLX front wheels on the ground

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elef3u

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I’m looking at buying either a Granite 4x4 3s BLX or a Big Rock 4x4 3s BLX.

I like the looks of the Granite better but in all the videos I see online, it’s a wheelie monster. I prefer to drive fast in turns and keep the front wheels down, which is why I was considering a Big Rock instead for the longer wheelbase. (I definitely want a monster truck for deep grass.)

Would loosening the slipper clutch on the Granite keep the front wheels down? Or should I go for the Big Rock? I won’t be jumping much...mostly running in open grassy fields.

Thanks!
 
I’m looking at buying either a Granite 4x4 3s BLX or a Big Rock 4x4 3s BLX.

I like the looks of the Granite better but in all the videos I see online, it’s a wheelie monster. I prefer to drive fast in turns and keep the front wheels down, which is why I was considering a Big Rock instead for the longer wheelbase. (I definitely want a monster truck for deep grass.)

Would loosening the slipper clutch on the Granite keep the front wheels down? Or should I go for the Big Rock? I won’t be jumping much...mostly running in open grassy fields.

Thanks!
What ever you do, don't loosen the slipper.
 
Yeah, with no center diff, it will wheelie. Throttle management is key. Lowering punch can help. Loosening the slipper will only give you a melted slipper.

This is one place my Siren has a huge advantage over my Granite. Center diff, so it can be driven harder thru turns and such.
 
Why? Any other options? I’m a noob.
Loosening the slipper will cause trouble, if you really want a Granite turn down the punch and learn throttle control
 
Softer rear suspension may help so the rear end sits down as much as it can on throttle. Might be possible to add weight to the front somehow, maybe with the sticky weights used to balance car tires stuck in the front of the body shell, you can buy them by the box on Amazon. Just don't know how well they might stick upside down in a body shell, I've only seen them stacked on the front a chassis by speedrunners but there's not really a good place for that on the 3s platform.

Only other way I can think of not yet mentioned here is smaller tires or different tires with less grip in the back.
 
Big Rock will definitely wheelie less, 4s Kraton would be a good fit if you have the extra $.
 
Also if you run the granite on 2s the throttle is really easy to manage and wheelies aren't really an issue, at least for me.
 
Good post here...

Newbie here who went with the Granite not even knowing there was a Big Rock at the time. Then I watched videos on the BR and said I wish I bought that over the Granite based on wheelies. I will say as others have told me with my Infraction...throttle control!! So with the change to Tactic radio I have gotten better with the throttle control on the Granite...still need more practice but I am learning to keep it down with the radio. I don't like the wheelies and I am not a basher not doing the 15+ feet jumps and stuff....flat areas with a few humps to get some air...plenty fun for me.

I like the Granite and will not get rid of it but you sound like me what I wanted and if I had seen some in action in person would have gone with the BR. Still learning that throttle which is important. Based on what I have read here and other places I don't EVER plan on touching the slipper :)
 
This is one of the reasons I went with the BRCC. (I now also have an X-maxx that wheelies all day long but I’m OK with that).
As others have said, the slipper clutch is for cushioning any crashes/landings you have to separate the shock load from the motor and drivetrain.

The BRCC still wheelies but it is harder.

Some things you can do.
  • Throttle control is the biggie.
  • Set the punch level down so mashing the throttle doesn’t kick it up.
  • Don’t mash the throttle (it’s hard, I know).
  • You could change the pinion to an 18T. This should slow the acceleration and give you more top end. But, beware that is also will make things hotter and harder on motor. A fan may be worthwhile here. Note: Read explanation from @Jerry-rigged below as this may be not so true.
  • When you accelerate don't squeeze the go fast lever too quick.
  • Run it on 2s. However I think the lure of 3s POWAH will win here (it’s addictive, hence the Xmaxx).
  • You could put some sponge at the bottom of the controller where the throttle meets the base to slow the squeezing down a bit.
  • Weights are OK but I don’t like them as they seem a bit odd given it adds weight and changes the balance forward alot.
  • Cut off your index finger and learn to use your feet to drive. Should have less power in your little toe.
  • I like the softening the rear shocks idea. But if your jumping this may cause the truck to bottom out which is not ideal for electronics.
  • When you eventually need to replace the crappy Spectrum transmitter, find one with throttle dual rate or limits so you can control yourself.
  • Heavier wheels may help keep the front down but this wouldn’t be much. Note: Read explanation from @Jerry-rigged below as this may be not so true.
  • Add a wheelie bar, remove the centre driveshaft and live life on 2 wheels! Embrace the wheelie lifestyle.
Sounds like you want more Kraton like handling but are worried about off road ability. The BRCC does fill that spot pretty well although traction roll is real so you might want to consider wiedening the stance with arms or offset hubs as well.

I love my BRCC to death and Arrma have done a good thing with their 3s and 4s line.
 
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This is one of the reasons I went with the BRCC. (I now also have an X-maxx that wheelies all day long but I’m OK with that).
As others have said, the slipper clutch is for cushioning any crashes/landings you have to separate the shock load from the motor and drivetrain.

The BRCC still wheelies but it is harder.

Some things you can do.
  • Throttle control is the biggie.
  • Set the punch level down so mashing the throttle doesn’t kick it up.
  • Don’t mash the throttle (it’s hard, I know).
  • You could change the pinion to an 18T. This should slow the acceleration and give you more top end. But, beware that is also will make things hotter and harder on motor. A fan may be worthwhile here.
  • When you accelerate don't squeeze the go fast lever too quick.
  • Run it on 2s. However I think the lure of 3s POWAH will win here (it’s addictive, hence the Xmaxx).
  • You could put some sponge at the bottom of the controller where the throttle meets the base to slow the squeezing down a bit.
  • Weights are OK but I don’t like them as they seem a bit odd given it adds weight and changes the balance forward alot.
  • Cut off your index finger and learn to use your feet to drive. Should have less power in your little toe.
  • I like the softening the rear shocks idea. But if your jumping this may cause the truck to bottom out which is not ideal for electronics.
  • When you eventually need to replace the crappy Spectrum transmitter, find one with throttle dual rate or limits so you can control yourself.
  • Heavier wheels may help keep the front down but this wouldn’t be much.
  • Add a wheelie bar, remove the centre driveshaft and live life on 2 wheels! Embrace the wheelie lifestyle.
Sounds like you want more Kraton like handling but are worried about off road ability. The BRCC does fill that spot pretty well although traction roll is real so you might want to consider wiedening the stance with arms or offset hubs as well.

I love my BRCC to death and Arrma have done a good thing with their 3s and 4s line.

I’m going to cut off my index finger. Thanks for the advice!

LOL I think I may be leaning toward the BRCC but I just don’t know. Anyway, the only Granite 3s I can find in stock anywhere is an older pre-Spektrum model with the Tactic radio, which from what I’m seeing also has a weaker motor mount and different spur gear and slipper pads versus the newer models with the Spektrum radio.
 
If you don’t want wheelies, don’t buy a wheelie machine. If you really want to try and tame it, easiest things to do are:

2S or NiMH battery only

Punch 1

50% on the radio

Small SCT tires
 
I’m going to cut off my index finger. Thanks for the advice!

LOL I think I may be leaning toward the BRCC but I just don’t know. Anyway, the only Granite 3s I can find in stock anywhere is an older pre-Spektrum model with the Tactic radio, which from what I’m seeing also has a weaker motor mount and different spur gear and slipper pads versus the newer models with the Spektrum radio.

Didn’t know about the spur difference although mine hasn’t bothered me. The newer spectrum radio is utter laggy garbage and should be tossed from the start from what I’ve seen so the older tactic one may actually be better.

It’s a bit of a coin flip really. I went with the BRCC for the longer wheelbase and cooler body shell and it was cheaper when I bought it.
The good thing is they share alot of the same parts. Only the the chassis, center shaft, wheels and spur are different I believe And the chassis/driveshaft is off a Senton I think.

Honestly with either one you’ll be happy.
 
-You could change the pinion to an 18T. This should slow the acceleration and give you more top end. But, beware that is also will make things hotter and harder on motor. A fan may be worthwhile here.
-Heavier wheels may help keep the front down but this wouldn’t be much.

This is somewhat correct, but also all wrong for our trucks...

Mind you, I came from a brushed motor RC background, and a while back, I would have thought these two statements would be true. With Brushed motors, they are. BUT-

Brushless motors like the 3600 3200kv motor in the BLX3s trucks can make a HUGE amount of instant power. No, we can't use ALL this power for long, or the motor will overheat. But for instant power, like when you wheelie, that 0.5s-1.5s won't overheat the motor. Why am I talking power?

With the higher tooth count, and the heavy tires, the Idea is they will load up the motor more, which will slow acceleration, which will limit wheelies. This train of thought only works when the power is lower, like a brushed motor, or a small mild brushless. With a strong motor, like a 3660 can, they have PLENTY of power, and still get the wheels up to speed in a second or two.

So, looking at moving from 15t to 18t - the motor can still get you up to speed quick, but now you have a higher top speed - you end up with MORE acceleration, and MORE wheelies.

Looking at the heavy wheels, that is rotational mass - ever see the "Standing Backflip"? Those are from rotational mass, not acceleration. You increase the tire mass, you make it EASIER to wheelie, assuming the truck has enough power. (as a side note, I sometimes run SCT tires on my Granite. It won't wheelie off the line, but when traction grabs at 10-20mph, it will lift the front end.)

Powerful, short wheel base MT's will wheelie, that is just truth. Throttle control helps.
 
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This is somewhat correct, but also all wrong for our trucks...

Mind you, I came from a brushed motor RC background, and a while back, I would have thought these two statements would be true. With Brushed motors, they are. BUT-

Brushless motors like the 3600 3200kv motor in the BLX3s trucks can make a HUGE amount of instant power. No, we can't use ALL this power for long, or the motor will overheat. But for instant power, like when you wheelie, that 0.5s-1.5s won't overheat the motor. Why am I talking power?

With the higher tooth count, and the heavy tires, the Idea is they will load up the motor more, which will slow acceleration, which will limit wheelies. This train of thought only works when the power is lower, like a brushed motor, or a small mild brushless. With a strong motor, like a 3660 can, they have PLENTY of power, and still get the wheels up to speed in a second or two.

So, looking at moving from 15t to 18t - the motor can still get you up to speed quick, but now you have a higher top speed - you end up with MORE acceleration, and MORE wheelies.

Looking at the heavy wheels, that is rotational mass - ever see the "Standing Backflip"? Those are from rotational mass, not acceleration. You increase the tire mass, you make it EASIER to wheelie, assuming the truck has enough power. (as a side note, I sometimes run SCT tires on my Granite. It won't wheelie off the line, but when traction grabs at 10-20mph, it will lift the front end.)

Powerful, short wheel base MT's will wheelie, that is just truth. Throttle control helps.

Agree with the tires part... Larger tires might actually make the issue worse and I have noted accordingly...

I would still argue that going up in pinion count will slower acceleration but I would like to do some testing as moving from 15-18T may not be enough to impact wheelieness in any meaningful way. As a general rule, a lower gear ratio will mean lower acceleration and higher top speed however it is possible that the 3600\3200kvs have so much torque that it actually doesn't matter enough to keep the wheels down.
 
Once I switched out my crappy spektrum stock radio with a flysky, i have no problem accelerating hard while keeping the wheels mostly down. Stock radio has such horrible low speed throttle control just order a replacement now while you're still deciding, you'll thank yourself later no matter what car you get.
I was able to find an older model Granite 3s in stock at a LHS...has the Tactic radio so hopefully I’ll be good to go!!
 
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