Kraton Strange deceleration behavior

[ARRMA-GET’M]

xlx2-1100kv-Radiolink G6 - 1/5 Kraton
No aux wire being used
Nothing assigned to aux wire
PROBLEM:
Everything operates normal except for when decelerating. If I’m at let’s say 50% throttle and I suddenly lower the throttle to 25% throttle right away, the motor ALSO drops to 25% rapidly and it jerks the whole drivetrain instead of just coasting and rolling free until the motor takes over at that given lower rpm or speed. In order to avoid this, I have to either let the throttle go completely so it’sin neutral and the truck will roll/coast just fine. Also if let’s say I’m barely on the throttle and the truck is keeping, you can push or force the truck to roll and faster than that bcs it’s locked in that motor rpm. I’m NOT using any crawler mode nor any drag brake nothing and no aux. my sensor wire makes no difference used or not and it’s the proper one if you’re asking. It can’t be any of the parameters in the Radiolink G6 bcs this behavior existed before I changed the factory settings. Someone mentioned updating the firm on the radiolink to the newest but only one person EXOCAGED said his xlx2’s do the same thing to him, others say NO that’snit normal. I’ve exhausted all of the YouTube rc community trying to fix this. I even uploaded a video on my Chanel for those who want to try to solve this!

 

[Engineer]

One thing you said in your video was that the Aux wire wasn’t plugged in. Per the manual that needs to be plugged into an open channel even if you aren’t using it. Not sure if that’s causing problems but hey, it’s a long shot.

 

[N.Mango]

Throttle curve adjustment???

 

[jkflow]

Very odd, it's not the radio, for sure.
Yes, AUX wire needs to be plugged in, but don't think that has anything to do with this issue.
This issue is inside the ESC but couldn't tell you why or what.

I would assume you have done a factory reset, and you have the latest firmware.

For grins, I would enable the drag brake and see how it acts and then disable again.

 

[Vulthraxis]

Could be this known issue with XLX2 https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/castle-xlx2-warning-known-issue.42318/ IMO stay away from the XLX2 combos with that there's this https://home.castlecreations.com/bl...ory-sa2021-1-mamba-xlx2-and-mamba-monster-x8s that I think they fixed the D winding thing but you still can't run over 1400KV on a 6 pole motor so higher KV 6s setups are out right now any ways.

Contact castle support tell them you have a bad ESC explain your problem have them trouble shoot with you and probably get a warranty.

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

Could be this known issue with XLX2 https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/castle-xlx2-warning-known-issue.42318/ IMO stay away from the XLX2 combos with that there's this https://home.castlecreations.com/bl...ory-sa2021-1-mamba-xlx2-and-mamba-monster-x8s that I think they fixed the D winding thing but you still can't run over 1400KV on a 6 pole motor so higher KV 6s setups are out right now any ways.

Contact castle support tell them you have a bad ESC explain your problem have them trouble shoot with you and probably get a warranty.

…. Thanks, yes it’s come down to that.

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

One thing you said in your video was that the Aux wire wasn’t plugged in. Per the manual that needs to be plugged into an open channel even if you aren’t using it. Not sure if that’s causing problems but hey, it’s a long shot.

View attachment 219277

Yes I originally programmed the esc with the aux in, that original video is on my Chanel. I’ve always had it plugged in but with nothing assigned to it. Right now, it’s plugged in and I assigned power level output to the third channel dial to be SURE that what IS assigned to it is a feature that has nothing to do with what I’m experiencing. In this post I said it wed n plugged bcs I DID unplug it and with nothing assigned to it to eliminate the question of trying it without the aux. the esc was manufactured AFTER the new firmware update was created so the esc came with the newest firm and it also was a different lot# from that with the busbar issue.

Very odd, it's not the radio, for sure.
Yes, AUX wire needs to be plugged in, but don't think that has anything to do with this issue.
This issue is inside the ESC but couldn't tell you why or what.

I would assume you have done a factory reset, and you have the latest firmware.

For grins, I would enable the drag brake and see how it acts and then disable again.

Esc manufactured after the new firm update so it came with newest firm in it and was also a different lot# from the defective busbar batch.

 

[SrC]

Like @Engineer stated, follow the manual.
Make sure the ESC has NO Drag brake set. Use the CC App/ PC adapter to check. And check to see if there is a "coast setting" to adjust. Some brand ESC's have this.
Not familiar with CC ESC's, beyond this.
I have seen a member with this somewhat similar issue before, based on your explanation.
Search AF for the link.

 

[jondilly1974]

I think the AUX cable only needs to be there if you are pulling more BEC current than one wire can handle. I don’t remember the amount per se, but I read that before. That’s why Raz removes his as well.

 

[Moirae]

I just had an mmx8s stop working because somehow the data logger bugged out and apparently if you have a full data log you get zero throttle or reverse. To make it even funnier, the data log showed 24% full but that was a lie apparently lol. There are a lot of random things that can happen with these esc's imo, Maybe try reflashing the firmware and going to default settings. Also make sure you clear the data log because yolo.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Never in my life plugged in the aux wire. Works great without it.

The comment from @Moirae above is good. Try a full re-format and see if it helps, but if all else fails get in touch with castle support by phone. They are very good.

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

Never in my life plugged in the aux wire. Works great without it.

The comment from @Moirae above is good. Try a full re-format and see if it helps, but if all else fails get in touch with castle support by phone. They are very good.

I spoke to customer support today, guy says THAT’S HOW THE ESC WORKS! It’s called speed matching! I asked if there’s going to be a firmware update anytime soon?, because many ppl complain about this and it will ruin transmissions if your not careful.., he replied nope, not that I’m aware of.. I picked his brain for 10 minutes and said none of my other Castle esc have “speed matching” to where it JAMS my transmission in an impractical way. Literally the best answer was “yea that’s normal”. I’m NOT happy with this xlx2.

 

[Engineer]

I spoke to customer support today, guy says THAT’S HOW THE ESC WORKS! It’s called speed matching! I asked if there’s going to be a firmware update anytime soon?, because many ppl complain about this and it will ruin transmissions if your not careful.., he replied nope, not that I’m aware of.. I picked his brain for 10 minutes and said none of my other Castle esc have “speed matching” to where it JAMS my transmission in an impractical way. Literally the best answer was “yea that’s normal”. I’m NOT happy with this xlx2.

Maybe this thread can help but doesn’t seem to have really definitive answers: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/castle-creation-cryo-drive-esc-rpm-matching.44180/

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

Maybe this thread can help but doesn’t seem to have really definitive answers: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/castle-creation-cryo-drive-esc-rpm-matching.44180/

Im good at thinking outside the box and I have some ideas… hear me out, im going to look into castle link first and then im going to look into my radiolink transmitter. Because rpm matching happens “suddenly” rather than gradually and won’t wait for the vehicle to slow down on its own, im going to create a smooth “RAMP UP” and a smooth “RAMP DOWN” on my trigger/throttle. When I let off, it’ll do it smooth and swiftly. And when I get “back on” the throttle, it’ll introduce the throttle input quickly but smooth and swift. I only need this feature to work while “still in motion” but not from a dead stop. Between what castlelink has to offer and all my transmitter’s expo’s and curves, I should be able to “beat the system” okay man who’s excited with Me lol?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Im good at thinking outside the box and I have some ideas… hear me out, im going to look into castle link first and then im going to look into my radiolink transmitter. Because rpm matching happens “suddenly” rather than gradually and won’t wait for the vehicle to slow down on its own, im going to create a smooth “RAMP UP” and a smooth “RAMP DOWN” on my trigger/throttle. When I let off, it’ll do it smooth and swiftly. And when I get “back on” the throttle, it’ll introduce the throttle input quickly but smooth and swift. I only need this feature to work while “still in motion” but not from a dead stop. Between what castlelink has to offer and all my transmitter’s expo’s and curves, I should be able to “beat the system” okay man who’s excited with Me lol?

I do like using throttle expo on higher voltage setups. I had another idea along these lines... What if you set your throttle trim a few ticks in the acceleration throttle position. This should reduce the braking that is occurring. Just have to play with it till you find the "real" neutral point.

 

[ARRMA-GET’M]

xlx2-1100kv-Radiolink G6 - 1/5 Kraton
No aux wire being used
Nothing assigned to aux wire
PROBLEM:
Everything operates normal except for when decelerating. If I’m at let’s say 50% throttle and I suddenly lower the throttle to 25% throttle right away, the motor ALSO drops to 25% rapidly and it jerks the whole drivetrain instead of just coasting and rolling free until the motor takes over at that given lower rpm or speed. In order to avoid this, I have to either let the throttle go completely so it’sin neutral and the truck will roll/coast just fine. Also if let’s say I’m barely on the throttle and the truck is keeping, you can push or force the truck to roll and faster than that bcs it’s locked in that motor rpm. I’m NOT using any crawler mode nor any drag brake nothing and no aux. my sensor wire makes no difference used or not and it’s the proper one if you’re asking. It can’t be any of the parameters in the Radiolink G6 bcs this behavior existed before I changed the factory settings. Someone mentioned updating the firm on the radiolink to the newest but only one person EXOCAGED said his xlx2’s do the same thing to him, others say NO that’snit normal. I’ve exhausted all of the YouTube rc community trying to fix this. I even uploaded a video on my Chanel for those who want to try to solve this!

I FIXED THE (rev-match) PROBLEM ITS FIXED!!! Here’s the link to the video details.