Kraton Strange performance drop until reboot

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Johnny RC

Johnny RC

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I have had a Kraton 6s Exb for a week, I am still new to the various behaviors, but today using it I have encountered some strange problems in performance:

Battery just charged 2x3S 7200 DXF, everything works and the performance is at the top, after a while that I use it continuously for about 10 minutes, suddenly it starts to go to about 30/40% of its performance, as if it were flat.

I try to turn it off, I turn it on again immediately after, and the performance returns to the top, after another 7/8 minutes of playing, it happens again, I restart and it resumes.

Suddenly after having decreased the performance again, it stops and makes the classic noise of when it has a flat battery, not convinced, I try to restart and here too it returns with top performance for another 5 minutes.

What could it be?
Why does it do this?
 
Voltage sag, the lipos arnt up to the power draw you are asking. Lipos drop voltage under load, esc thinks they are empty because of the low voltage, so it shuts down. Even if the lipos are >50% capacity when measured. Lipo rests for a min, voltage bounces back, you restart it, and the process restarts itself till the lipos are actually empty.
If thats the case, lipos will be warm to the touch after you have cycled a few times. This is very hard on the lipos and the esc as well.
Need better quality lipos my friend. Or at the least, drop a handful of teeth on the pinion.

If you want to verify its this, the esc will flash a light when it happens. Note the color and frequency. The manual will tell you the error code - likely low voltage cutoff (lvc)
 
For the Arrma 6s cars it's much better to buy once cry once with the batteries. I tried Zeee Premium 3s packs in series on my Outcast and couldn't do a standing backflip. Went to CNHL 6200mah 90C 6s and it overrotated a standing backflip. The punch difference alone is worth the better packs, but yeah this sounds like voltage sag hitting low voltage cutoff from poor lipos.
 
For them single language peeps like me.

No, they were at ambient temp. No battery heating.

Its possible it didnt last long enough between shutdowns to heat the outside. They probably wouldnt be hot, but anything over warm might be a sign of a problem. Esp if the runs were short with little breaks between like above.

Unless the led lights on the esc say different, its very likely the lipo just cant supply the amps. Even if it can provide the power, a better lipo will give you noticeably more power, more run time and keep the esc happier. Its worth the investment on the expensive truck.
 
Chapinb said:
Voltage sag, the lipos arnt up to the power draw you are asking. Lipos drop voltage under load, esc thinks they are empty because of the low voltage, so it shuts down. Even if the lipos are >50% capacity when measured. Lipo rests for a min, voltage bounces back, you restart it, and the process restarts itself till the lipos are actually empty.
If thats the case, lipos will be warm to the touch after you have cycled a few times. This is very hard on the lipos and the esc as well.
Need better quality lipos my friend. Or at the least, drop a handful of teeth on the pinion.

If you want to verify its this, the esc will flash a light when it happens. Note the color and frequency. The manual will tell you the error code - likely low voltage cutoff (lvc)
Click to expand...

Chapinb said:
For them single language peeps like me.

No, they were at ambient temp. No battery heating.

Its possible it didnt last long enough between shutdowns to heat the outside. They probably wouldnt be hot, but anything over warm might be a sign of a problem. Esp if the runs were short with little breaks between like above.

Unless the led lights on the esc say different, its very likely the lipo just cant supply the amps. Even if it can provide the power, a better lipo will give you noticeably more power, more run time and keep the esc happier. Its worth the investment on the expensive truck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, tomorrow I should use it and I'll see if it still does it and how it flashes
 
As @Chapinb said, your esc is hitting low voltage cutoff because it thinks the battery voltage is down the the lvc cutoff, because of voltage sag. If you have another set of batteries, try those and see if the problem persists.
 
Your batteries may discharge at different rates. The one that discharges the slowest you need to plug into the positive ESC wire, it will act as a bottleneck for your other battery. Mark your batteries so you can tell them apart. If you still have power problems then switch which battery is plugged into the positive ESC plug. When I ran 2x3s batteries I used to have to plug them in in magic order or my run would end in 10 minutes with low voltage.
 
RC Steve said:
Your batteries may discharge at different rates. The one that discharges the slowest you need to plug into the positive ESC wire, it will act as a bottleneck for your other battery. Mark your batteries so you can tell them apart. If you still have power problems then switch which battery is plugged into the positive ESC plug. When I ran 2x3s batteries I used to have to plug them in in magic order or my run would end in 10 minutes with low voltage.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I'll try this and see if anything changes.
 
cancelthefuture said:
For the Arrma 6s cars it's much better to buy once cry once with the batteries. I tried Zeee Premium 3s packs in series on my Outcast and couldn't do a standing backflip. Went to CNHL 6200mah 90C 6s and it overrotated a standing backflip. The punch difference alone is worth the better packs, but yeah this sounds like voltage sag hitting low voltage cutoff from poor lipos.
Click to expand...
I just ordered them, let's see how these batteries you recommend go CNHL 6200mah 90C 6s
 
Johnny RC said:
I just ordered them, let's see how these batteries you recommend go CNHL 6200mah 90C 6s
Click to expand...
That's my favorite pack from CNHL to this day. They have some other good ones and some other so and so ones, but the 90C racing ones have never done me wrong.
 
Multiple people including myself have received 5200mah batteries wrapped in 6200mah skins from CNHL. If it looks smaller than what's in the picture or looks like this, send it back. I kept this one because it fits my Sledge.

PB110002.webp
 
RC Steve said:
Multiple people including myself have received 5200mah batteries wrapped in 6200mah skins from CNHL. If it looks smaller than what's in the picture or looks like this, send it back. I kept this one because it fits my Sledge.

View attachment 399909
Click to expand...
What on earth? This is the first I'm hearing of this
 
cancelthefuture said:
What on earth? This is the first I'm hearing of this
Click to expand...
When I first got one of these batteries I thought it was a new model. I kept trying to charge it a 6200 and my charger would kick off early. Thank God for quality chargers, I could have burnt my house down.

I just want to add CNHL was fast about getting the right battery to me.
 
RC Steve said:
When I first got one of these batteries I thought it was a new model. I kept trying to charge it a 6200 and my charger would kick off early. Thank God for quality chargers, I could have burnt my house down.

I just want to add CNHL was fast about getting the right battery to me.
Click to expand...
What? You were charging based on capacity instead of target voltage? That's a bad idea no matter what the battery is.
 

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