Typhon Stretch Typhon 6s speed run

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huggybear33

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Okay guys, new to the forum but not new to the hobby. I’m starting to dabble in the “speed run” world and would like some feedback if anyone has any bright ideas to get my little rig going a little faster. I’m currently hitting 104 mph, I’d like to get to 120mph of the car will stay down. All ideas welcome.

Typhon TLR
Stretched chassis (from Talion)
TP 4070 2200kv
Mmx8s
34P / 30S spool
6s zee pack
GRP T3 tires


IMG_2692.webp


IMG_2693.webp
 
Gatta love a stretched and slammed typhon. Maybe silly question but have you geared up more? Are you hitting a cut or is it just topping out at 104? What Mah are those batteries, they might not have enough juice. Also have you turned your esc LVC cutoff completely off?
 
Gatta love a stretched and slammed typhon. Maybe silly question but have you geared up more? Are you hitting a cut or is it just topping out at 104? What Mah are those batteries, they might not have enough juice. Also have you turned your esc LVC cutoff completely off?
I haven’t, I guess I assumed 34/30 with 2200kv would spin a bit faster. I’ll change the spool to 27 and try that. Should I turn the LVC off?
 
Gatta love a stretched and slammed typhon. Maybe silly question but have you geared up more? Are you hitting a cut or is it just topping out at 104? What Mah are those batteries, they might not have enough juice. Also have you turned your esc LVC cutoff completely off?
I haven’t, I guess I assumed 34/30 with 2200kv would spin a bit faster. I’ll change the spool to 27 and try that. Should I turn the
A better battery will do wonders. (SMC SRD)
If you look at the data logs you will see that the Zeee LiPo is voltage sagging really bad under full throttle

You’re right I’ve just been holding off to see if I could dial in other elements first. Good call for sure.
 
I haven’t, I guess I assumed 34/30 with 2200kv would spin a bit faster. I’ll change the spool to 27 and try that. Should I turn the


You’re right I’ve just been holding off to see if I could dial in other elements first. Good call for sure.

It is really important to learn how to read the data logs from the Castle ESC.
If you see your voltage is sagging to low on 34/30 then you know based on the data that changing gears is going to make things worse. This leads to more stress the ESC, Solder joints, motor, and lipo. Gearing "up" will only lead to electronic failures if you take the approach of "well I'll just gear up and see what happens". Learn the logs and make solid, educated decisions (y)

All the top tier speed runners spend significant time looking at their data logs.
 
It is really important to learn how to read the data logs from the Castle ESC.
If you see your voltage is sagging to low on 34/30 then you know based on the data that changing gears is going to make things worse. This leads to more stress the ESC, Solder joints, motor, and lipo. Gearing "up" will only lead to electronic failures if you take the approach of "well I'll just gear up and see what happens". Learn the logs and make solid, educated decisions (y)

All the top tier speed runners spend significant time looking at their data logs.
Totally makes sense, I’m fine with being a bottom tier guy 😂 I have to make educated decisions at work, out here I just want to play. But seriously, really appreciate the thoughtful insight should I want to truly hone the craft.

My instinct was that my battery & ec5 connector was my weakest link.
 
Totally makes sense, I’m fine with being a bottom tier guy 😂 I have to make educated decisions at work, out here I just want to play. But seriously, really appreciate the thoughtful insight should I want to truly hone the craft.

My instinct was that my battery & ec5 connector was my weakest link.
For speed running there is a phrase "Follow the process"
What that means is run a gear and then gear up 1-2 teeth and test again. We often want to cut ahead and jump 5 teeth at a time but then you don't understand what works or does not work and why.

I would do runs and change 1-2 teeth and record all my data in a spread sheet. With that data I could see where the car became maxed out for that voltage. In this example you will see clusters of runs for 2s, 3s, and 4s.

The runs above the trend line were efficient and had more speed in them. Once they fell below the trend line I was loading the system with 600+ amps and making it work really hard. That is when you damage lipos or just don't pick up any more speed.

Watts to MPH Capture.webp


The cluster of runs on 3s in the middle I switched from CNHL to ONYX LHB packs and picked up several mph, boosting the overall system efficiency.
 
For speed running there is a phrase "Follow the process"
What that means is run a gear and then gear up 1-2 teeth and test again. We often want to cut ahead and jump 5 teeth at a time but then you don't understand what works or does not work and why.

I would do runs and change 1-2 teeth and record all my data in a spread sheet. With that data I could see where the car became maxed out for that voltage. In this example you will see clusters of runs for 2s, 3s, and 4s.

The runs above the trend line were efficient and had more speed in them. Once they fell below the trend line I was loading the system with 600+ amps and making it work really hard. That is when you damage lipos or just don't pick up any more speed.

View attachment 416726

The cluster of runs on 3s in the middle I switched from CNHL to ONYX LHB packs and picked up several mph, boosting the overall system efficiency.
It is really important to learn how to read the data logs from the Castle ESC.
If you see your voltage is sagging to low on 34/30 then you know based on the data that changing gears is going to make things worse. This leads to more stress the ESC, Solder joints, motor, and lipo. Gearing "up" will only lead to electronic failures if you take the approach of "well I'll just gear up and see what happens". Learn the logs and make solid, educated decisions (y)

All the top tier speed runners spend significant time looking at their data logs.
So I bought some of the onyx 100/200c batteries and was able to get to 105 at about 90% throttle, I don’t think I can push this frame / body any further as the front end starts to lift off at 100+/-. Any suggestions to keep car down? I’ve slammed the front suspension already. Perhaps some weight on the front end or mods to spoiler?
 
Could you describe what adjustments you have done?

Generally you want the rear setup high, with the front very low.
The biggest things for a speed run setup is travel limiters. You want shock travel limiters that only allow the rear to travel 1-2 mm (basically locked out)
Then the front can have some travel but must stop before the bottom touches the pavement. I found that Tygon fuel line tube worked best. Silicon tube will split over time.

The rear wing could be part of the issue also, but I found testing my Kraton 6s that it needs some rear wing or the car gets out of control during braking.

For what it is worth.... I have not seen a Typhon need weights on the front
 
Little update- took most of the suggestions…
TP 4060 1750kv
GP5 diffs
onyx 6s speed run pack

The rig seems to want to top out at 114mph. I’d like to see if I can push it 120mph not sure it will stay planted if I go much faster.
 
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