Kraton Stripped grub screw

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well it would be in 2 pieces , but if you weld it up carefully I'm sure it could be reused.
It's missing a few teeth though

20190508_094708.jpg
 
While your welding the gear back together , you should be able to weld the piece you cut off back on. If you ground it off , then you SOL and will have to splurge and buy a new pinion.
I am going to list it for sale as soon as I count the remaining teeth.
 
So would it be a 14 1/2 tooth pinion or round it up to a 15.
14 full teeth and two 1/2 teeth. So 15 it is. Lightweight as well due to new aerodynamic design.
 
While your welding the gear back together , you should be able to weld the piece you cut off back on. If you ground it off , then you SOL and will have to splurge and buy a new pinion.
You don't need to throw it away if you ground it down! Just puddle up some more weld and then use a file or grinding wheel to make teeth into it. Come on that would be a waste of $8.99 when you could do this and have it up and running in like 6 hours of straight work.
 
Last edited:
Id use easy outs and a torch but before I figured out arrmas love for red thread locker I almost went crazy trying to get my kraton apart to change all the bearings.... after the first stripped set screw and a twisted allen driver I went strait to lowes and got a cheap torch and a set of easy outs ... the torch is key man as long as you don't melt something in the process... if I was you I'd probably just go get an easy out set or any one of the striped screw remover tools and alot of gas stations sell little butane torches I got 2 a few months ago that I keep in my rc tool bag for like five dollars a piece and they are refillable just my opinion if you want to save the pinion
It's missing a few teeth though

View attachment 37664
I'd say that pinion is lost lol I'm serious guys buy the right striped screw remover and a torch and you will be prepared for this if it ever happens again and if you notice it's not wanting to let go in the first place the torch always works for me with the right temp it comes out easy funny thing is my sets crew came out without a torch but they had so much loctite in there it wasnt coming off even with the sets crew out lol ....
 
Last edited:
I'm trying to save the pinion. Do you think that would ruin it? ?

Honestly- I'd throw it all back in the garbage- the amount of metal shavings in the motor, well- it won't live long no matter if you get the gear off.
 
Honestly- I'd throw it all back in the garbage- the amount of metal shavings in the motor, well- it won't live long no matter if you get the gear off.
The motor is sealed, Isn't it? But, I am a noob when it comes to things like Rc stuff and all. But I am a quick study.
 
Honestly- I'd throw it all back in the garbage- the amount of metal shavings in the motor, well- it won't live long no matter if you get the gear off.
I would have definitely taped the front holes but arrma strong lol have faith
 
I'd at least spray it with brake clean heavily first... even a 'seal' doesn't like metal shaving dust when spinning 40-50k RPM.
 
can you clean the motors like the old brushed motors in water

can you clean the motors like the old brushed motors in water
Water will affect the the internals of a BL motor. I only use a solvent that is electically safe. Electrical contact cleaner. Or Automotive air mass flow cleaner by CRC. Brake cleaner will break down the winding laminates. And is not plastic and epoxy safe
 
Yeah, I wouldn't use brake cleaner on anything but aluminum or steel parts, if at all on an RC. Made that mistake in the past. Definitely keep it away from lexan bodies. Eats through those like acid!
 
I used a torch and also used the existing allen screws.
37910


I took the BLX motor off of the red alloy bracket.

Then I screwed back in those 2 allen bolts on each side of the BLX motor.

I used a screw driver to push the pinion up the shaft. Carefully rotating it around. The allen bolt gives you good leverage and let's you get up higher up the shaft.

When it got too high up the shaft I got some longer M4 allen bolts (same size as ones that screw into motor - BUT longer). Then I kept pushing the pinion up the shaft bit by bit with a flat head screw driver till it came off.

I also got at the very BASE of the pinion too withe flat head. Not the part with the teeth but the base below that. That helped because I think it kept the pinion straighter when pressure was pushing up the shaft.

Hope this helps!
 
I used a torch and also used the existing allen screws.View attachment 37910

I took the BLX motor off of the red alloy bracket.

Then I screwed back in those 2 allen bolts on each side of the BLX motor.

I used a screw driver to push the pinion up the shaft. Carefully rotating it around. The allen bolt gives you good leverage and let's you get up higher up the shaft.

When it got too high up the shaft I got some longer M4 allen bolts (same size as ones that screw into motor - BUT longer). Then I kept pushing the pinion up the shaft bit by bit with a flat head screw driver till it came off.

I also got at the very BASE of the pinion too withe flat head. Not the part with the teeth but the base below that. That helped because I think it kept the pinion straighter when pressure was pushing up the shaft.

Hope this helps!
That's a sticky for sure. My 2019 Kraton's pinion out the box was giving trouble removing it. I upped it to 15T. What a bear it was. But not like yours. Great work. You have to finesse it or ruin it. Pinions are expendable items. Not armatures and cans. I used my soldering iron tip at 700f. I did reuse red lock tight threadlocker. I just use it sparingly. I only use the red on 5 mm mod 1 pinions. ALL else gets blue.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top