Kraton Stripped screw, speed out extractor didn't work

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Goose Creek SC
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton EXB
  3. Typhon 3s
Hey all, before I take the Dremel to this thing, I was wondering if anyone had a different idea. As you can see the speed out extractor + heat didn't work. Any strategies welcome. Thanks!

Chassis screw.webp
 
Chassis plate? Countersunk flathead rounded out? Drill w/ similar size of the screw, ie, M4= 4mm drill, till the head is gone. Remove remnant after with a vise grip or pliers.
 
Chassis plate? Countersunk flathead rounded out? Drill w/ similar size of the screw, ie, M4= 4mm drill, till the head is gone. Remove remnant after with a vise grip or pliers.
This was my plan using a Dremel and a tungsten carbide but.
 
Have a read. In addition to the common methods of heat, left hand drills, dremel slot, extractors and drilling out, see post 28 in particular.
Be very careful about drilling out on the chassis, its very easy to not leave enough meat for the next screw. Use a smaller bit, like m3/m4
 
Easy tig or fluxcore 110V mig weld a nut onto the flathead, 60 seconds tops is the most efficient way.
 
Glad to hear it is solved!
Myself, I've been on a brink of stripping some bolts as well.

Here is what I did: got Wera 354 series hex drivers for the sizes I need. Pretty cheap. They are marketed as having a slightly larger contact surface: "Hex-Plus offers larger contact surfaces in the screw head."
https://products.wera.de/en/screwdrivers_kraftform_plus__series_300_354_hex-plus.html.html

And the most important part: I plan to only use them on the loctite bolts to make sure this set of drivers stays fresh. Hopefully this strategy works. If not, will see you here )
 
And the most important part: I plan to only use them on the loctite bolts to make sure this set of drivers stays fresh. Hopefully this strategy works. If not, will see you here )
This itself is important. I have a 1.5, 2 and 2.5mm set that I only use for tough screws so it stays crisp.
 
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