Stripped servo ....really?.

[Mattyd926]

So after a pretty decent crash my servo screw keeps coming loose. I was just doing some testing so I didn’t threadlock it down yet but after about 5 minutes of normal driving it keeps coming loose. If my servo is stripped is there anyway of repairing it? It’s a savox 12 something waterproof and it has about 3 packs through it. Thank you in advance........

 

[Camaroboy383]

What's stripped? The spline or the threaded hole for the screw?

 

[adidas303]

As @Camaroboy383 is asking,

What's stripped? The spline or the threaded hole for the screw?

We need to know!! We want to help!!! ?

 

[Mattyd926]

The threaded hole for the screw

 

[Crewchief227]

What's stripped? The spline or the threaded hole for the screw?

My thoughts exactly. OP, If it's the spines in the horn, get a new horn. If it's the actual threads that hold the horn you can A) Get someone with an M3 tap to redo the threads B) Get a gear set from Savox for about $25. I just went thru and redid my entire steering to resolve an issue & learned a few things.

1) The screws on the top of each bell crank matter on length. Yes you'll see some play up & down on your bell cranks. This is normal.

2) A good starting point for turnbuckles is 67.5mm measured from inside to inside of each rod end.

3) If you have the adjustable servo saver, 5-6mm from the bottom of the nut to the chassis is a good middle ground.

4) The fiber C-clip shims on the upper arm pivots also effect steering performance. The manual states 1 2mm shim in the front & 2 0.8mm shims in the rear.

5) I use threadlock in addition to an M3 lockwasher on the servo horn screw (unless you've got a clamping type).

6) If you have a Savox that buzzes. Listen to it carefully when setting your sub trim. If it buzzes after rolling forward and coming to a rest without braking your sub trim is not set right, and your servo is constantly "fighting" to maintain center.

7) The servo link (1 piece for stock) is supposed to have a downward angle towards the bellcrank horn.

8) End points, end points, end points!!! I cannot stress this enough, or you'll be stressing your servo to death. Let's face it, as bashers we're pulling full steering most of the time to do doughnuts, power slides, and so on. Having your endpoints set to 100 will not just kill the servo, but can strip your horn, elongate your rod ends, twist your bellcrank, and even be the reason your pivot ball nuts keep backing out.

Follow these, and you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches, trust me?!

 

[jondilly1974]

Red TL FTW

 

[Camaroboy383]

tighten the clamp on the horn good, and I agree a little red loctite will retain that screw.. over and over again, with the clamp style horn the screw isnt doing anything but retaining it anyway...

Or as stated above, could grab a new gear set..

 

[Mattyd926]

Wow from the time I got home from work til now all this info . Hats off gentleman. Thank you . I think I will red Loctite with a lock washer. It the clamping type from hot racing. I like the idea of a new gear set. Again his help and great info

 

[jondilly1974]

Just let it cure for 24 hours and you should never have another issue

 

[slick2500]

Savox has a 1 year warranty, their turn around is really fast as well.

 

[Crewchief227]

Savox has a 1 year warranty, their turn around is really fast as well.

Yep just sent two servos in (1211 & 1256) and within a week had two brand new sealed replacements ?

 

[Mattyd926]

So the culprit ..... me lol. I have the hot racing clamping horn and didn’t realize there are 2 clamp screws so now my horn is super stripped. So back to stock aluminum horn thanks I for the help