Stripped srews.

nulli

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That's what you get with low quality hex tools. You could try grinding a slot in them if possible.
 

K4L4M1TY

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Yep, I have stripped screws even though it's the first time i've removed them and i'm a mechanic so I know better than most about these problems. Not sure if it's the tools being low quality though, seems like the screws are the low quality part even on my brand new kraton. Hope you get them out, i'd look at a small set of 'easy outs' for removing them to hopefully not damage anything else. Then i'd replace them with better screws, not arrma ones.
 

fishycomics

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We start out and a screw starts slipping, that right aways tells us to Stop, we do what, keep right on going. I got a screw M3 or is it a m4 man loaded with Locktite and to much tightning from factory. Use heat to free locktite I read? I did just that. no good. cut a slot on a countersunk screw, good luck. So yes I tried a brand new extractor and failed as well. so I feel your pain I really do. so back to the start of my opinion.

We start out and a screw starts slipping.... I stop get the right tool which I did but I am wanting to get out here now and enjoy my hobby. In the nmean time use another Rc Model until you can find the answer you're after. I am no pro but I tried most methods but the MIP one.

FISH
 

Jfpryde

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Second the MIP. Especially on smaller grub screws. Pretty sure they will even sharpen them if they ever dull up.

Heat and screw extractors, or using a dremel to cut a slit are pretty much your only option for the already stripped.
 

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Here's an alternative method I use from time to time on stripped screws...

For M3 screws that take a 2.0mm hex driver you'll need a 7/64" drill bit, drill and needle nose pliers or vise grips. For M4 screws use an 11/64" bit. The following example is a stripped M3 screw that holds one of the wing mounts.

Carefully drill the center of the screw head
IMG_7329.JPG

Check depth until the head of the screw pops off and starts rotating
IMG_7330.JPG IMG_7332.JPG

Remove part to get it out of the way
IMG_7333.JPG

Use needle nose pliers, vise grips or a pair of side cutters or dikes to unthread the remainder of the screw
IMG_7334.JPG

Took me longer to make this post than it did to successfully drill and remove the stripped screw.


Hope this helps others as an alternative method down the road when dealing with a stripped screw
 

olds97_lss

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Here's an alternative method I use from time to time on stripped screws...

For M3 screws that take a 2.0mm hex driver you'll need a 7/64" drill bit, drill and needle nose pliers or vise grips. For M4 screws use an 11/64" bit. The following example is a stripped M3 screw that holds one of the wing mounts.

Carefully drill the center of the screw head
View attachment 21080

Check depth until the head of the screw pops off and starts rotating
View attachment 21081 View attachment 21082

Remove part to get it out of the way
View attachment 21083

Use needle nose pliers, vise grips or a pair of side cutters or dikes to unthread the remainder of the screw
View attachment 21084

Took me longer to make this post than it did to successfully drill and remove the stripped screw.


Hope this helps others as an alternative method down the road when dealing with a stripped screw
That works on some. Although, a lot of the flat head screws end up without enough stump to get a pliars onto. But that's about the only way (without an ezout) to get a caphead or buttonhead screw out of something that's recessed like your wing mount. For flathead screws, it's either ezout or dremel. Typically, they are on a part that is accessible to a dremel, so that's what I do as I've yet to buy an ezout. I just ignore the damage it causes on the part around it. :)
 

TooTall

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On those countersunk ones, in the past I have used a dremel and a small cutting wheel to make a cut for a flat bade.

I have also found that once in a while, you can get the next size bit in the head if it strips, so i used a 2.5 to remove a 2.0 once.

TT
 

Neelio it's me

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So was trying to replace the 4 bearings in the steering column. Heated to 200F still stripped the screws. I'm going to try a screw extractor. If that doesn't work I guess i can drill the heads off and pull the whole steering post out the bottom, with the front off the chassis. Then i can channel lock the post and the screw and seperate. Incase that doesn't work I ordered and posts (I have screws on the way). Any suggestions? Anyone have this problem. I changed my whole chassis heat worked there. IDK why it didn't here. Maybe all the plastic arount the metal. I'm pretty new to RC but this is kinda embarssing lol.
 

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jondilly1974

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So was trying to replace the 4 bearings in the steering column. Heated to 200F still stripped the screws. I'm going to try a screw extractor. If that doesn't work I guess i can drill the heads off and pull the whole steering post out the bottom, with the front off the chassis. Then i can channel lock the post and the screw and seperate. Incase that doesn't work I ordered and posts (I have screws on the way). Any suggestions? Anyone have this problem. I changed my whole chassis heat worked there. IDK why it didn't here. Maybe all the plastic arount the metal. I'm pretty new to RC but this is kinda embarssing lol.
200F isn’t quite hot enough. I would have went to at least 500F if not 750F.
 

Baldingo

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I typically find a torx bit that is slightly larger than the hole. Hammer the bit into the stripped screw head, then unscrew it while applying a lot of pressure.
Nobody has mentioned this yet so I'm wondering if it is frowned upon.....but it works for me.
Obviously you want to use some judgement about what you are hammering a torx bit into though
 

Neelio it's me

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200F isn’t quite hot enough. I would have went to at least 500F if not 750F.
IDK alot of plastic around the screw. 200F was more than enough for the whole chassis including the dreaded motor mount. I don't want to melt anything. Don't want to buy a new plastic part so no dremel. I have a feeling Arrma used way too much locktite on a longish screw going into the metal posts. Oh well i will just leave it for now until my backup parts come in. No use removing it until i have some backup screws and posts anyways. The pic shows the screws are recessed into the plastic bracket.
 

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jondilly1974

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IDK alot of plastic around the screw. 200F was more than enough for the whole chassis including the dreaded motor mount. I don't want to melt anything. Don't want to buy a new plastic part so no dremel. I have a feeling Arrma used way too much locktite on a longish screw going into the metal posts. Oh well i will just leave it for now until my backup parts come in. No use removing it until i have some backup screws and posts anyways. The pic shows the screws are recessed into the plastic bracket.
If they still stripped, then you didn’t have enough heat. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣🤣
 

jondilly1974

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I mean how much heat can the plastic take? I'm noob lol. How are you heating it? I have a heat gun and a soldering iron.
I would use a soldering iron with a large chisel tip. The more surface area you can make contact with, the better the heat transfer. Using an iron will make direct transfer of the heat and reduce the amount that hits plastics. You can also mask off plastics with aluminum foil if using a torch. The plastics will be good until they start smoking or bending. An iron will reduce this risk.
 

Neelio it's me

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Haha i just drilled through the head of the screw. Got replacement parts. The steering posts came out. May be able to able to salvage the pins if i can get rest of the screw out. Anyways i have new bearings!
 

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