Kraton Stronger Metal Diffs?!?

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SoCal Arrma Owner

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
I have a Kraton 6s and recently upgraded to M2C racing thicker chassis and shock towers and 3.8 belted trenchers. My only issue I’m seeming to have is the diffs shredding and starting to click and pop. Are there any harder diffs anyone recommends or is there a solution to not sheer off the diffs so quick? #help
 
Hmmm, I’d like to know as well.

One solution could be to use either the HR or Arrma metal diff cups. It wouldn’t flex as much holding the gears in place. Also, you could make your pinion/ring gear mesh a little tighter than what is normal and “wear them in”.
 
I’ve been looking into different diff gear sets that will fit our diff cases but I haven’t come up with a ring and pinion gear from another manufacturer that would fit.

As for the internal gears, I run all Mugen components. Including outdrives.
 
I have a Kraton 6s and recently upgraded to M2C racing thicker chassis and shock towers and 3.8 belted trenchers. My only issue I’m seeming to have is the diffs shredding and starting to click and pop. Are there any harder diffs anyone recommends or is there a solution to not sheer off the diffs so quick? #help
Im havein the same issue rebuilt diffs. about five times now and only have had it for about a month n a half.....gettin frustrated with it ..no upgrades straight stock...and would it matter what diff oil you ran
 
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I know you don't want to hear this, but... Change the way you drive.
Im only running it at 50% thr. And even turned the punch down i don't jump it drove in a baseball field and around the bases and through a park .... Cant be the way im driving. I have an infraction as well and drive that thing hard and have no problems....i know they are different types but are pretty close to each other with components but i could be wrong about the two being the same . just know that its pretty frustrating having something that you cant drive
 
Have you shimmed your diffs yet??On 6s you're likely to break things!

IMG_20200401_120615.jpg


The top left Mugen Seiki shims are for your diff internals. The middle Kyosho shims are for behind the input(/pinion) gear. The top right CoreRC shims are for placing against the diff bearings to mesh the ring(/crown) gear on the input(/pinion) gear

I've been running everything in the picture in my rear diff for 2 months with no issues so far

 
Have you shimmed your diffs yet??On 6s you're likely to break things!

View attachment 85695

The top left Mugen Seiki shims are for your diff internals. The middle Kyosho shims are for behind the input(/pinion) gear. The top right CoreRC shims are for placing against the diff bearings to mesh the ring(/crown) gear on the input(/pinion) gear

I've been running everything in the picture in my rear diff for 2 months with no issues so far

Thank you. ill try them out
 
I’m running 6s typhon and shimming, aluminum diffs and fast eddy bearings was my first upgrade.
Never had a issue. Did change diff fluid to 60/500/80 but maybe ? about 80/500/80 but I’m on some street bashing type sh**, but handles well on dirt tho
 
Have you shimmed your diffs yet??On 6s you're likely to break things!

View attachment 85695

The top left Mugen Seiki shims are for your diff internals. The middle Kyosho shims are for behind the input(/pinion) gear. The top right CoreRC shims are for placing against the diff bearings to mesh the ring(/crown) gear on the input(/pinion) gear

I've been running everything in the picture in my rear diff for 2 months with no issues so far

This ???? ifolled this vid to the letter and my diffs havnt had a single issue. Those trenchers are quite heavy as well. If you do this full shim job and your still blowing diffs out, I would switch to bwckflip lp's....if you can find em ?
 
It's the trenchers, I have them and I love them but they tear things up and make motors run stupid hot. I can bash around all day 3 or 4 packs on stock tires and no issue, throw on the trenchers and well let's just say I even have a spare diff in my glovebox. Blowing the gear where the pin splits it?
 
Have you shimmed your diffs yet??On 6s you're likely to break things!

View attachment 85695

The top left Mugen Seiki shims are for your diff internals. The middle Kyosho shims are for behind the input(/pinion) gear. The top right CoreRC shims are for placing against the diff bearings to mesh the ring(/crown) gear on the input(/pinion) gear

I've been running everything in the picture in my rear diff for 2 months with no issues so far.

This is a great post. I use the Kyosho 96772 Shims 13x16x0.15Mm and i'll put two to give me 0.3mm thickness instead of the CR456 you have. I'm gonna get those Kyosho 96773 next time. i have the V4 and use the stock shims for that. The mugen seiki shims inside the diff do wonders and i put six shims inside the planetary gears. basically 2 behind one side and 1 on the other. I haven't had to replace any planetary gears yet but i'll get some backup GPM gears.
 
Im only running it at 50% thr. And even turned the punch down i don't jump it drove in a baseball field and around the bases and through a park .... Cant be the way im driving. I have an infraction as well and drive that thing hard and have no problems....i know they are different types but are pretty close to each other with components but i could be wrong about the two being the same . just know that its pretty frustrating having something that you cant drive
Im having the same problem on my outcast 6s. I keep stripping the rear diff gears.( input and ring gears). Ive notice the diff moves around alot while in the case. I can grab the rear axles and wiggle it around. I'm thinking or upgrading the diff case. Any suggestions?
 
I have a Kraton 6s and recently upgraded to M2C racing thicker chassis and shock towers and 3.8 belted trenchers. My only issue I’m seeming to have is the diffs shredding and starting to click and pop. Are there any harder diffs anyone recommends or is there a solution to not sheer off the diffs so quick? #help
The Hot Racing gear boxes really are the best solution. They are expensive but so are ring and pinion gears. I still shim my gears
like the other guys suggest. Now as long as I keep an eye on the bearings around the input gear ( NO WOBBLE OR SLOP ) the diff last for a long time. I drive the h£LL out of my Arrmas
 

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I've had a broken diff housing before that I didn't notice and the internal cups can become worn out, if you have rebuilt the diffs with old plastic, be careful to check them over. The screws that hold the diff to the chassis and the diff covers strip very easily, so if you have new cases go easy on the threads.

If you can buy the compete diff assembled from a kit breaker it's the cheapest way, then tear them down and rebuild them properly, you'll have fewer issues in the future.

Don't maintain the throttle on landings and avoid full throttle take off's, or roll backs. The diffs are pretty good considering the abuse they can take. This is what happens when you land with reverse throttle on accidently
20190603_211413.jpg


Make sure you have good bearings all round, and I prefer to seal my housings with grease and TekJo seals, this prevents dirt and sand from getting in and wearing out components.
20190607_171501.jpg


I think having bent drive shafts can also create massive stress on the diffs as the bearings aren't able to hold the pinion gears true.
 
I’ve been looking into different diff gear sets that will fit our diff cases but I haven’t come up with a ring and pinion gear from another manufacturer that would fit.

As for the internal gears, I run all Mugen components. Including outdrives.

Which model Mugen are those parts off of?
 
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