Stuck bearing

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SSSF

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Raider
  3. Vorteks
I would like to know your solutions how to remove a broken bearing from a metal housing.
The locations could be different, but the problem is the same: you do not have any leverage to remove the outer ring of the bearing.

30425
 
Use a bearing puller.. Theres an assortment of sizes and types out there I don't have a link to anything specific on hand but google RC car bearing puller and you'll find something.
 
Does that work if you only have the outer ring of the bearing left?
 
I would like to know your solutions how to remove a broken bearing from a metal housing.
The locations could be different, but the problem is the same: you do not have any leverage to remove the outer ring of the bearing.

View attachment 30425

I can't see detail of the entire circumstance in the photo, but there is a lip on that outer race so you may be able to flip that over on top of a socket that is slightly larger than that outer bearing race and use a small pin punch or screwdriver to stick down thru the hole and tap it out. Tap at three or four places around the edge so you don't wedge the race in the hole. Some heat on that aluminum part may help. It will expand more & faster than the steel race which may help. You may need a third hand to hold the part with some pliers
 
Get yourself a set of these as they are very handy in situations like this. Also great for taking apart difs, and getting at small parts and tucked away wires. Once you own them, you'll be amazed how many different times you'll use them. In Canada, the cheapest place to buy them is Princess Auto, so I'm guessing Harbor Freight would be the American equivalent.

30429
 
There are a few options, but applying heat to the aluminum part isn’t one of them. Why? Applying heat will expand the material... making the outer race more difficult to extract due to the aluminum applying a greater force on its diameter. I would place the assembly in the freezer for 30 mins or so instead.

Seeing as there is a lip which is exposed, I would recommend using a punch or chisel and breaking off the remaining bearing. Seeing as the outer race is hardened (58-62 HRC), it is brittle. Place part in a vice and work your way around it slowly. With any luck, you might end up cracking the radius, which will loosen the fit in the bore... making it easier to remove using the dental picks which NotoriousJ wisely suggested.

Naturally, wear eye protection ?
 
You'll have to get a tool or punch into the backside of where the bearing goes and drive it out the direction it originally went in.

I've had bearings come apart and leave the bearing race stuck inside the diff housing one more than one occasion. Same process just a different part....

30431

Bearing ate itself leaving nothing behind but a stubborn race that won't move.

30432


Wedge a small flat blade screwdriver or punch into the area behind the bearing where it's seated. Tap bearing out from opposing side of the race until its wiggled out enough to grab with pliers.

30433
 
All great tips, hopefully other are also helped with this.

I already tried heating it up: it does did not work (I did not want to push towards any direction, and I guess we have more options now).
I will try my freezer the next time.

I did not mention nor was it clear from the original photo: the stuck bearing was not bigger in the inner side so I could knock it out fromt he other side, but true: that technique saved me countless times.

These dentist items look handy, will get them, but I do not think they would be beefy enough to solve the problem.

There was indeed a small lip on the outside, but it was not enough to have any descent grip to start pulling it. Chiseling it might be an option; will try it next time.

I ended up taking my dremel and cutting the bearing ring. Yes, you need to cut in the cup too, but in my case I don't think it is a big problem.
You can see that I have cut the bearing completely; 2 small grooves in my cup, but I don't think that will be a big problem.
If you want to try this yourselves: make sure you start with as small as possible dremel metal cutting wheel; this will decrease the amount you need to cut into the cup.


30435


TNX for all the help, if someone has other ideas: add them in this tread to help others
 
When in doubt Dremel it out..

Had Dremel a fiddlesticking pinion off my motor damn grub got stripped.. didn't like that pinion anyway lol

which just reminds me i don't have a pinion for my big rock now.. fiddlestick!
 
I'm so not a fan of 2wd stuff, I had a big foot (traxxas) I gave to my brother I ran it a few times and just hated the way it handled.. need 4wd.
Yeah 2wd handles way different than 4wd does. My RC10B2 and Ecx Ruckus will always spin out through the s curve at the homemade rc track if you don't take it right, but all of my 4wd vehicles eat that corner for breakfast.
 
Yeah 2wd handles way different than 4wd does. My RC10B2 and Ecx Ruckus will always spin out through the s curve at the homemade rc track if you don't take it right, but all of my 4wd vehicles eat that corner for breakfast.

Yep if you like doing doughnuts 2wd is awesome! drop a 2s or 3s in that sucker and wheelie city totally un controllable.

Love 4wd tho so much more control tighter turns ect you know :D
 
There are a few options, but applying heat to the aluminum part isn’t one of them. Why? Applying heat will expand the material... making the outer race more difficult to extract due to the aluminum applying a greater force on its diameter. I would place the assembly in the freezer for 30 mins or so instead.

Seeing as there is a lip which is exposed, I would recommend using a punch or chisel and breaking off the remaining bearing. Seeing as the outer race is hardened (58-62 HRC), it is brittle. Place part in a vice and work your way around it slowly. With any luck, you might end up cracking the radius, which will loosen the fit in the bore... making it easier to remove using the dental picks which NotoriousJ wisely suggested.

Naturally, wear eye protection ?

The diameter. Of the hole in that part will become larger when it is heated not smaller. Been there dealt with it many many times. Do a little research.
 
The diameter. Of the hole in that part will become larger when it is heated not smaller. Been there dealt with it many many times. Do a little research.

When the hole becomes larger from thermal expansion, it will force against the outer race (as I have previous explained). Case in point: He tried your approach and it did not work.. as expected.
 
Thermal expansion will not decrease the diameter of that hole. I have heated many parts with a press fit bearing to be installed/removed in them. Heat it up, no press or hammer. Bearing drops right in/taps right out, part cools and bearing is tight. Heat an inner race and drop a press fit bearing right on a shaft, cools off bearing is tight. Like I said, do a little research. Done this poop all my life.
 
I would like to know your solutions how to remove a broken bearing from a metal housing.
The locations could be different, but the problem is the same: you do not have any leverage to remove the outer ring of the bearing.

View attachment 30425
I had the same thing happen to my hot racing diff case. I boiled it on low with some dawn dish soap and it slid right out took 5 minutes
 
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