Suggestions for a motor mount for a Kraton EXB 6s and a Castle 1717

turn2burn

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Hello and good evening all. I have purchased a CC 1717 motor and need to mount it to my Kraton EXB. Does anyone know about how to do this, I cant use the stock right?
Iv read people using v2 mounts and some other ones but I just don't know what to do. Its a heavy motor and I need it secure. Thanks for any advice anyone might have. My searches here didnt bring back much.
 

Diem Turner

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The stock mount will work just fine. The 1717 has a 25mm bolt pattern just like your more typical 4074 motors. But, if you want something better, have a look at PPS mounts. They're fantastic. The offer easy mesh setting, they really lock your motor into place without the need to wrench down the screws and it's a gorgeous piece of kit. The other alternative would be the Scorched Roto-Lok. Again, outstanding mesh adjustment and control, locks the motor in place and is a sexy piece of gear. The choice is yours. :)

Edit: It should be noted that both the PPS and Scorched RC mounts aren't cheap and, depending on which version and with what options you get, you're looking at $110-130 for either of them. But they're well worth the investment imho.
 

djrahbee

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The stock mount will work just fine. The 1717 has a 25mm bolt pattern just like your more typical 4074 motors. But, if you want something better, have a look at PPS mounts. They're fantastic. The offer easy mesh setting, they really lock your motor into place without the need to wrench down the screws and it's a gorgeous piece of kit. The other alternative would be the Scorched Roto-Lok. Again, outstanding mesh adjustment and control, locks the motor in place and is a sexy piece of gear. The choice is yours. :)

Edit: It should be noted that both the PPS and Scorched RC mounts aren't cheap and, depending on which version and with what options you get, you're looking at $110-130 for either of them. But they're well worth the investment imho.
What he ☝🏼 said..
 

turn2burn

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Cool thanks I just read a build with the PPS and it locks the diff in too to prevent warping. Its more bling too! Not that Im into that, all about performance. I did find this on ebay which might be good for impacts since the rear isnt supported. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325283756568?var=514166732953
Yea the motor with that much torque really needs to be connected solidly to the spur gear on the diff. Im starting off with 4s packs but maybe I should consider it on the build. Ill check out Scorched RC, thanks.
 

Diem Turner

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Cool thanks I just read a build with the PPS and it locks the diff in too to prevent warping. Its more bling too! Not that Im into that, all about performance. I did find this on ebay which might be good for impacts since the rear isnt supported. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325283756568?var=514166732953
Yea the motor with that much torque really needs to be connected solidly to the spur gear on the diff. Im starting off with 4s packs but maybe I should consider it on the build. Ill check out Scorched RC, thanks.
I can only encourage you to take a serious look at Scorched RC components. They're absolutely top tier where performance is why they made the part and form follows function. It happens to look trick AF too. There's nothing they make that I wouldn't endorse whole heartedly. Absolutely top notch kit. You can find some of their gear at Island Hobby Nut. If they don't have it, just order it from the mothership. They constantly get in fresh inventory if something you want is out of stock and they also constantly update/modify/refine their designs. Many parts like spools, diff lockers and other have already undergone numerous revisions. They never rest and leave good enough alone.

If you do a lot of jumping, supporting the end of the can is definitely a good idea as you're bound to damage your motor mount over time.
 

turn2burn

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Cool thanks, a bit too pricey for my blood, Im in the US so the conversion sucks dollars to euros. But this is the nicest piece of machining, https://scorchedparts.co.uk/product...5th-scale-motors?_pos=3&_sid=8a9bef1b1&_ss=r\
I also like the diff housing but if you get the above its pointless. How would you suggest supporting the rear of the can? Id feel bad drilling a hole back there with out a drill press. That ebay one was cheap, could glue it although I really want a mechanical connection.
 

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Cool thanks, a bit too pricey for my blood, Im in the US so the conversion sucks dollars to euros. But this is the nicest piece of machining, https://scorchedparts.co.uk/product...5th-scale-motors?_pos=3&_sid=8a9bef1b1&_ss=r\
I also like the diff housing but if you get the above its pointless. How would you suggest supporting the rear of the can? Id feel bad drilling a hole back there with out a drill press. That ebay one was cheap, could glue it although I really want a mechanical connection.
I used a piece of rubber gasket from my ammo can lid. About 2inch piece and it fit perfectly under my hw motor. Others use thick O rings, which I have as well but what I described is working great.
 

Diem Turner

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Cool thanks, a bit too pricey for my blood, Im in the US so the conversion sucks dollars to euros. But this is the nicest piece of machining, https://scorchedparts.co.uk/product...5th-scale-motors?_pos=3&_sid=8a9bef1b1&_ss=r\
I also like the diff housing but if you get the above its pointless. How would you suggest supporting the rear of the can? Id feel bad drilling a hole back there with out a drill press. That ebay one was cheap, could glue it although I really want a mechanical connection.
The Roto-Lok is exquisite. I have one in my Hobao VTE and the mechanics, how you adjust the mesh is just a thing of beauty.
SAM_6376.JPG


I do speedrunning primarily so I don't usually see the need to put something under my motor. The only one I make an exception on (not that it's strictly necessary but this can is really long) is my TP 4080CM. I'm very much a recycler/jerry rigger so for applications like this, I'll usually just rummage around in my "stuff" bins for something that suits the purpose. I made some resin molds from silicone a few years ago and I found a plug in the shape of a cookie that fit under it perfectly. It's a tight fit, but I think that's how it should be. The silicone has a tiny bit of give to it, but generally speaking, it's really firm.
1672876925011.jpeg
 

Lil Dylan

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Apparently, there is a guy on Facebook who goes by Bigfoot Customs who makes custom motor supports as seen on Kevin Talbot's notorious video.
 

turn2burn

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Cool thanks guys, yea that is a nice looking mount and I like the idea of the adjustable set screw for mesh. For 120 the PPS looks like the way I would go but Ill check out bigfoot customs, custom always means $ however. I love the o ring idea and I did think of rtv. Thats all good for normal gravity but if you took a hit upside down I'd be worried about that motor. These power systems are sooo much more than Im used to with my 3s airplanes with 3830's. 2mm screws attached to a wooden bulkhead. Its kinda why Im so excited about the Kraton, I never really work on airplanes.

If I went for the mount I might do some other stuff while in the process, I do have to rip apart the diff anyway. But the spur gear is on my mind.
I'v really been impressed with shoe goo, until now I haven't used it but man is it amazing. I could just put a bead on the back of the motor while shimmed a little. I also was toying with the idea of putting thermal paste on the bottom of the motor and frame but I think it it would just attract dirt.

I also love going through my parts bins and using them, got some random anodized heli and quad parts, could use to mount fan. Of course Im a complete newbie. Its why I got a sensored motor in part.
Wow Bigfoot rc is way cheaper than I thought. 39 bucks! Im not sure how much better this will be than stock.
https://www.bigfootrc.com/product/channel-lock-secure-motor-mount-arrma-karton-outcast/
 

Lil Dylan

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Cool thanks guys, yea that is a nice looking mount and I like the idea of the adjustable set screw for mesh. For 120 the PPS looks like the way I would go but Ill check out bigfoot customs, custom always means $ however. I love the o ring idea and I did think of rtv. Thats all good for normal gravity but if you took a hit upside down I'd be worried about that motor. These power systems are sooo much more than Im used to with my 3s airplanes with 3830's. 2mm screws attached to a wooden bulkhead. Its kinda why Im so excited about the Kraton, I never really work on airplanes.

If I went for the mount I might do some other stuff while in the process, I do have to rip apart the diff anyway. But the spur gear is on my mind.
I'v really been impressed with shoe goo, until now I haven't used it but man is it amazing. I could just put a bead on the back of the motor while shimmed a little. I also was toying with the idea of putting thermal paste on the bottom of the motor and frame but I think it it would just attract dirt.

I also love going through my parts bins and using them, got some random anodized heli and quad parts, could use to mount fan. Of course Im a complete newbie. Its why I got a sensored motor in part.
Wow Bigfoot rc is way cheaper than I thought. 39 bucks! Im not sure how much better this will be than stock.
https://www.bigfootrc.com/product/channel-lock-secure-motor-mount-arrma-karton-outcast/
It's actually this 3d printed one that I'm referring to. Nothing special but I'm sure it works great.

 

turn2burn

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I love the 3d printing of parts but on this one Id like it to be metal with a bearing housing. The M2C one doesn't look like it will work from the video?
Like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1339806010...ZTlmZ5SNn+Tv/Ewn3Z2ccKNmog==|tkp:BFBM5qvWrrBh

or this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953492742...Wvokg7rofo/4A9e3i9wWx5gNMj|tkp:Bk9SR-ar1q6wYQ


I don't like the flimsy attachment of the motor plate to housing. And the last link that one has only one screw holding it in place, Im not sure if thats a good idea.
 
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