Kraton Suggestions to make my K6S indestructible?

[BashTillBroken]

Do you guys have any suggestions on these parts for my k6s to make it indestructible am I missing parts? Are not all of them compatible? You tell me.

 

[N.Mango]

All of it so I can live precariously through you

 

[SrC]

With all the parts you listed above, seems all are compatible. I would substitute more of the M2C parts where you can. Braces etc. Use PPS center diff parts etc. Skip the Alloy rod ends. Just bling.
You will be replacing almost every single part on the 6s. Correct?
IMHO, many of those parts are just bling. It will look nice, just your rig will become extremely heavy also. Perhaps needlessy so. You don't need all of those parts to make it durable IMHO. But hey, it's your wallet. You are looking at one expensive rig there, with that list of parts. Are you sure you want to put all your apples in one basket? I tend to be more conservative with the bling. And the weight that it brings with no real gain in durability. Remember, added weight makes for more breakage at some point.. Drivetrain load increases exponentially. I would skip all the CF stuff. No advantage durability wise or real weight savings considering ALL the other alloy upgrades. It is just bling.
I'll let others chime in, perhaps more specific.
But go for it if you want.

Just me.

 

[BashTillBroken]

With all the parts you listed above, seems all are compatible. I would substitute more of the M2C parts where you can. Braces etc. Use PPS center diff parts etc. Skip the Alloy rod ends. Just bling.
You will be replacing almost every single part on the 6s. Correct?
IMHO, many of those parts are just bling. It will look nice, just your rig will become extremely heavy also. Perhaps needlessy so. You don't need all of those parts to make it durable IMHO. But hey, it's your wallet. You are looking at one expensive rig there, with that list of parts. Are you sure you want to put all your apples in one basket? I tend to be more conservative with the bling. And the weight that it brings with no real gain in durability. Remember, added weight makes for more breakage at some point.. Drivetrain load increases exponentially. I would skip all the CF stuff. No advantage durability wise or real weight savings considering ALL the other alloy upgrades. It is just bling.
I'll let others chime in, perhaps more specific.
But go for it if you want.

Just me.

I’m going to build this over a couple years my goal is to make my car completely indestructible what parts are you talking about for bling

 

[FlipSide]

As SrC wrote, this will be expensive and heavy.

To have a really durable and nice setup, I would go with the following upgrades and skip the rest.
- PPS: motor mount
- M2C: Chassis, chassis braces, F/R shock tower, shock tower brace, Ackerman plate, upper hinge pins retainer
- Arrma: Metal diff cup for the center diff, Outcast 6S wheelie bar

For the rest, I'd upgraded as needed when you break stuff

I don't know how necessary the M2C hinge pin holders really are. I have a rear one, but it's not installed yet. I'd steer clear from the HR hubs if they are significantly heavier than the stock plastic one. Minimizing the unsuspended mass is always a good idea if you want good suspension performance. I don't have an opinion or experience on the HR bulkheads. They're probably stiffer than the plastic stock one, but also heavier...

 

[SrC]

I’m going to build this over a couple years my goal is to make my car completely indestructible what parts are you talking about for bling

The CF for sure I would delete. I would focus on all PPS, Motor mount, top center cover and support.
Delete the alloy shock rod ends. Use Tekno's instead (plastic) Delete the HR wheelie bar set.
I would use CF sleeving over the stock T2T brace instead of using BQ CF one.
I would go with an Arrma EXB compatible Steering top plate. (7075) M2C rear wing mount support at the rear Bulkhead.
Just my ideas. But all this is a personal call. Your wallet.
I am sure it will be one nice rig once it is done. However you do it.

 

[BashTillBroken]

The CF for sure I would delete. I would focus on all PPS, Motor mount, top center cover and support.
Delete the alloy shock rod ends. Use Tekno's instead (plastic) Delete the HR wheelie bar set.
I would use CF sleeving over the stock T2T brace instead of using BQ CF one.
I would go with an Arrma EXB compatible Steering top plate. (7075) M2C rear wing mount support at the rear Bulkhead.
Just my ideas. But all this is a personal call. Your wallet.
I am sure it will be one nice rig once it is done. However you do it.

I allready have the rear tower brace and towers just need the chassis and front and rear chassis braces

 

[SrC]

You using this M2C rear tower brace?
With heavy rigs, I feel this is a great option.

https://m2cracing.net/arrma-notorio...tonoutcast-series-rear-shock-tower-brace.html

 

[FlipSide]

You using this M2C rear tower brace?
With heavy rigs, I feel this is a great option.

https://m2cracing.net/arrma-notorio...tonoutcast-series-rear-shock-tower-brace.html

...and you can get rid of the T2T brace if you have an M2C chassis + chassis braces + shock tower brace.

That's what I and several others did. I have never seen reports of people bending chassis after removing the T2T brace with this setup. Still bombproof and I really enjoy not having to deal with the T2T when I have some wrenching to do.

 

[Monster Dork]

I have most of the parts on your list between two vehicles. M2C for what you can, and fill the rest with HR. HR steering is a must-do in my experience. HR shock caps are cheaper than M2C, but you only need them for open-bath. The bladder caps from Arrma are just fine otherwise. I also do not think the hinge pins need an upgrade. I would absolutely not go with extended hubs, they add strain and the Kraton is wide enough already. I have HR front and rear hub housings, they are very nice but not super necessary. I do not have HR diff housing or diff assy bodies- they are expensive and I am not sure they are necessary either. I need to wait until I break bulkheads before replacing them. The other stuff I did break to lead to the upgrade. Weight gain is significant from the chassis and shock towers, but most of the other stuff is a minor weight gain, if any. It will change some of the characteristics of your vehicle handling, but is addressed through shock damper tuning and spring preload. M2C shock pistons are great, but you need to change your shock oil from 1000 CST to 750 CST on the Kraton to get back to correct damping.

 

[dk3000]

I’m going to build this over a couple years my goal is to make my car completely indestructible what parts are you talking about for bling

My 2 cents is to scratch all that hot racing stuff off your list minus 1 hot racing bulkhead with cover. I'll list what I think you need based on my current build and one that's sitting here in parts ready for the build.
-m2c kraton Exb essentials kit
-m2c rear shock tower
-pps center mount w/roll cage mount
-m2c pillow ball retainer nut kit w/tool
-m2c rear hinge pin set
- Basherqueen front shock tower
- Basherqueen HD Carbon steering kit
- Basherqueen carbon servo mount
- rpm rear skid plate (New model for exb)
- outcast side guards Ar320352
- Promodeler DS635 servo

I'm sure I Missed some things like the dboots from Jenny's in route.

 

[SrC]

^^^ @dk3000, you said only get one HR bulkhead and cover.
I imagine best at the rear diff???
Yeah I am not a big fan of HR in general, if you have better upgrade brand alternatives to use, where possible.
Think Vivaton (hubs and Bulkheads) and M2C. And a few others.

 

[arrma only fans]

Buy a talion….

you will thank me.

 

[dk3000]

^^^ @dk3000, you said only get one HR bulkhead and cover.
I imagine best at the rear diff???
Yeah I am not a big fan of HR in general, if you have better upgrade brand alternatives to use, where possible.
Think Vivaton (hubs and Bulkheads) and M2C. And a few others.

Ya I don't personally Think the front Is neccessary for a hot racing bulkhead. Im installing my first Vitavon bulkhead and like the quality

 

[BashTillBroken]

i killed my kratons front diff case so should I get a aluminum one or stay plastic

 

[dk3000]

Thats your call. If you go plastic check Jenny's rc for a deal.

i killed my kratons front diff case so should I get a aluminum one or stay plastic

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Run it on 4s and don't jump it, it will never break.

But if you want 6s and send it with bad landings, no RC will be indestructible.

 

[The Bean]

Put it on your shelf

 

[21STalion]

I've done 95% off these upgrades in the last month. It's all on my build thread.

Worth it? Not if money is tight. It's way overpriced, i could have bought a couple extra cars in case something broke, but this year I'm really into completing the projects I start as fast as possible.

I like the aluminum bullheads. If you don't add the cover the weight increase is like 4gr per end. Almost the entire car is bolted to the diff case on each end so it's worth it for me. Covers were a bad deal weight wise but so much nicer.

Hub Carriers probably not. I only got them because of parts availablily problems. I keep a full set of arms and hub Carriers with me as spares when bashing but now I've been waiting for a month for front ones. They weigh a lot and are nicer, tolerances are tighter. It's your call. Front ones are more convincing than the rear.

I'd skip at least 5 parts on your list. I would not widen the front end.

Just about every m2c part is worth it.

Have fun, don't forget the quality tool set so you can strip the car and rebuild it nightly with no damages.

One of the best features of the car are the low parts count and easy servicing.

Put it on your shelf

I bash hard, and the bling won't slow that down, but that's me.

I'm trying to build the GOAT to drive the GOAT and flog the GOAT

 

[SrC]

Run it on 4s and don't jump it, it will never break.

But if you want 6s and send it with bad landings, no RC will be indestructible.

+1
with 4s ...so true.
And 6s... well its always some carnage. With 8s, well you better have a big wallet.