Kraton Super confused with the input Gear for Kraton

[cobalt172]

I ordered new Hot racing diff housings and shims as I have had horrible luck with Arrma Diffs. The input gear constantly gets stripped of all its teeth.

Anyway, I ordered 2 new ones along with the new diff housings. I looked at the manual and it shows the gear as being, AR310498:

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310498

This gear DOES NOT MESH with the Diff ring gear inside the STOCK DIFF HOUSING OR THE HOT RACING DIFF HOUSING...

Can someone please explain what the hell is going on here? I took out the one that was stripped out and it was at least 2 or 3 teeth bigger than this replacement part (AR310498)

This is so BIZZARE!!!!!!!!!

 

[Camaroboy383]

Did you buy the rig new or used? Could be that the ring gear is from a typhon? ?‍

 

[Yonic]

You sure the old diff that you used wasn’t the straight teeth version? It’s the one that is used in the Typhon and the infraction. It could explain the stripping, as its not designed for large wheels

 

[cobalt172]

It appears that the gear that came with this rig (I purchased it new from amazzon) is the typhon gear and not the kraton gear.
I have no iddea how at the factory they could put the wrong gear in the wrong car and it still works.....

But wait, then what diff gear am I using? WTF I must be using a SMALLER RING GEAR than the stock one.
How did I get the wrong gears in this car???
I did rebuild this diff with parts from hobbytown, so they must have given me the wrong parts.

This means that I am using a Ring gear that is smaller. What ring gear am I using?
Here are pics of the wrong gears I have

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Those are straight cut for the typhon

 

[Fletch F. Fletch]

Similar boat. Rear Input gear and diff gear totally stripped in the rear. New set en route. Would this be because not enough side shims (by outdrives) or just wear n’ tear?

I think I heard it slipping before rebuilding the rear, but got worse immediately on first run out after rebuild. I did swap out for Fast Eddy bearings - would that have changed the mesh measurement? Wondering if I should add a thin shim between large/inner bearing and new input gear????

 

[jondilly1974]

Similar boat. Rear Input gear and diff gear totally stripped in the rear. New set en route. Would this be because not enough side shims (by outdrives) or just wear n’ tear?

I think I heard it slipping before rebuilding the rear, but got worse immediately on first run out after rebuild. I did swap out for Fast Eddy bearings - would that have changed the mesh measurement? Wondering if I should add a thin shim between large/inner bearing and new input gear????

View attachment 104983

View attachment 104984

Usually yes it’s a lack of shims. But if you put enough power thru them or land under power, you can still strip a well shimmed diff.

 

[Fletch F. Fletch]

Yeah. Call me loco, but i feel like a metal diff in 6s truck should hold up to 6s power and landing on some throttle....

Shims on the outdrives, correct? Or behind the input gear to tighten up?

 

[Yonic]

I did swap out for Fast Eddy bearings - would that have changed the mesh measurement?

Generally yes - the shimming needed is mostly dictated by the variation in the bearings. So changing bearings require re-meshing the gears.

I never stripped a diff gear (apart when a bearing blew up on me mid-race), but i shim my diffs carefully, honestly it's the most time consuming element every time i access the diffs.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yeah. Call me loco, but i feel like a metal diff in 6s truck should hold up to 6s power and landing on some throttle....

Shims on the outdrives, correct? Or behind the input gear to tighten up?

Yes you shim the ring gear side bearings until the ring and pinion mesh is almost fully tight. You want the smallest amount of lash. If it doesn’t have lash but is still smooth all the way around, that’s probably ok too, but it shouldn’t be notchy or anything when spinning it by hand. Make sure you go all the way around the ring gear in both directions.