Infraction Suspension settings..??

[BashingBrian]

So as the title says...?

What sort of suspension settings are working best for speed running..?? ( Infraction/Limitless )

I've been looking around all the Youtuber's and they all seem to run really low spring collars, ie: really stiff setup.
Raz doesn't even seem to have rear springs on some of his cars..!! but maybe I just can't see properly..?

I know you need the car to have a rake to it, ie: front lower than the back.
And I assume the lower arms are horizontal to the ground, other than that what else is there to set..??

Maybe fitting some sort of rubber bump stop onto the shock shaft so the car doesn't bottom out..??

Ride height is going to depend on your road surface I would think, I do understand that ideally you don't want any air getting under the car so a low ride height is needed..
But what's an ideal height..?? and how do you measure it..??

I've been tinkering with mine and when you stiffen up the spring collar the car rises, so your going to need to use your droop screws to adjust the ride height..?

Any tips, just add them below..??

 

[SrC]

Droop is your friend once you understand it. Dialing your sway bars is also important. Use stiffer Arrma Upgrade springs and Sway bars. Wheel alignment is so important and often misunderstood as well. A proper wheel alignment anticipates loads at speed. Makes you go faster. Not to mention more even wear on the tires.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I found that the original front Limitless springs were a little soft. I purchased the optional harder front springs and that resolved my issue.
Droop screws setup and tighten the collars/pre-load.

You can see that Raz does in-fact have suspension travel occurring in this video. (at least in the front)

 

[SrC]

I believe Raz locked his front susp. on one of his early Typhons.

I also upped the spring rates on my Lim. all around. Also Arrma thicker sway bars F/R. A little more loose off the line, but hooks up faster at speed. My Hybrid Sensored setup gets it hooked up sooner off the line and compensates. Full sensored is no good for speed running IMHO. At least with My HW Xr8+ and 2200kv combo motor. I really want that 1717. On B/O last I checked. I have to move over to Castle sooner than later. Just no getting around it.
The tough question is XLX or the MX8S?

One of Raz's best vids yet. He is open to sharing his knowledge. He got me into being the speed bug that I am now.
Thanks for sharing that.

 

[jondilly1974]

I’ve made two passes on the 1717 so far but both ended in crashes, neither due to the motor tho. Too early to make a judgement, but it is super smooth as expected on start. Hopefully I can get everything back in order and make another pass soon.

 

[SrC]

Raz ran 1717 Unsensored. Did you also???

Still on B/O.
http://www.castlecreations.com/en/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1650kv-060-0081-00.

 

[jondilly1974]

Raz ran 1717 Unsensored. Did you also???

Still on B/O.
http://www.castlecreations.com/en/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1650kv-060-0081-00.

No I ran it sensored. I want the motor temp data and protection.

 

[SrC]

No I ran it sensored. I want the motor temp data and protection.

Thanks. You think like me also.
Motor temp protection/data is important for these $motor$. I assume you are running a Castle ESC? If so, does it provide both Full Sensored and Hybrid Sensored Mode setting options like HW ESC's do?

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks. You think like me also.
Motor temp protection/data is important for these $motor$. I assume you are running a Castle ESC? If so, does it provide both Full Sensored and Hybrid Sensored Mode setting options like HW ESC's do?

MMX8S yes full sensored

 

[LibertyMKiii]

The tough question is XLX or the MX8S?

Most of the Top dogs are running the XLX. I know the XLX has more FETs, however the MMX8s has thrown down with the XLX in every comparison I have seen. Most of the time when there is data available we can see the MMX8s runs cooler and drives the motor cooler also.

This is the first one I have seen where the MMX8s was used on a Limitless going "fast".
Video quality isn't the best but 151 mph is good:

 

[SrC]

^^^ Castle only offers the Full Sensored setting? No Hybrid Sensored setting available that you know of?
Perhaps Hybrid Sensored setting in firmware is exclusive/proprietary to HW sensored ESC's.

Most of the Top dogs are running the XLX. I know the XLX has more FETs, however the MMX8s has thrown down with the XLX in every comparison I have seen. Most of the time when there is data available we can see the MMX8s runs cooler and drives the motor cooler also.

This is the first one I have seen where the MMX8s was used on a Limitless going "fast".
Video quality isn't the best but 151 mph is good:

Castle brags about their new "Cryo Cooling Electrics" in the X8S. Hence runs cooler?
151MPH is bragging rights for sure with a Lim body.

 

[SrC]

Raz ran 1717 Unsensored. Did you also???

Still on B/O.
http://www.castlecreations.com/en/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1650kv-060-0081-00.

 

[KiTris ExtremeRC]

^^^ Castle only offers the Full Sensored setting? No Hybrid Sensored setting available that you know of?
Perhaps Hybrid Sensored setting in firmware is exclusive/proprietary to HW sensored ESC's.

Castle brags about their new "Cryo Cooling Electrics" in the X8S. Hence runs cooler?
151MPH is bragging rights for sure with a Lim body.

I believe it's sensored at low RPMs and automatically switches to sensorless at a certain RPM, so you get the best of both worlds.

 

[SrC]

Auto Switching Sensored to off at high revs is most efficient for speed running. Sensored on the line, then sensorless up to full TH

 

[Notoriousone]

Auto Switching Sensored to off at high revs is most efficient for speed running. Sensored on the line, then sensorless up to full TH

Is auto switching on by default when running it sensored, or do you have to enable it?

 

[KiTris ExtremeRC]

Is auto switching on by default when running it sensored, or do you have to enable it?

I'm pretty sure it's enabled by default.

 

[SrC]

I can only say that the HW XR8+ gives me both options in the settings. Hybrid sensored or Full time sensored. Motors run most efficiently unsensored when they are full TH.
Full time sensored would be most beneficial in a confined Track setup. Because midrange power band is used mostly.

 

[BashingNBreakin04]

Droop is your friend once you understand it. Dialing your sway bars is also important. Use stiffer Arrma Upgrade springs and Sway bars. Wheel alignment is so important and often misunderstood as well. A proper wheel alignment anticipates loads at speed. Makes you go faster. Not to mention more even wear on the tires.

Which arrma upgraded sway bars are you referring to? Would like to have some for my infraction.

 

[SrC]

https://www.arrma-rc.com/products/-/30/1/ARA109011/OPT/ALL/ALL

Wide Sway bars are for the rear. narrows are for the front. With some modding, you could even get the wide rears to work in the front. Opens up more tuning options. The actual bar thickness in mm determines how stiff the sway bar responds to arm movement. There is a procedure to adjust the sway bars after they are mounted so there is even sway control for both arms during the shock compression stroke There are videos showing how to do it. The most important part of changing them is adjusting them properly. The ball links are adjustable in 2 ways. Bars slide in and out and links can be extended. Initially you install both links in a vertical position. Both links should start out at the same height as well. The adjustment is done with the shocks separated from the arms. For reference....Stock thickness for the narrow front bar is 2.4mm. Stock Rear wide bar is 2.7mm.
Hope this helps.

 

[BashingNBreakin04]

https://www.arrma-rc.com/products/-/30/1/ARA109011/OPT/ALL/ALL

Wide Sway bars are for the rear. narrows are for the front. With some modding, you could even get the wide rears to work in the front. Opens up more tuning options. The actual bar thickness in mm determines how stiff the sway bar responds to arm movement. There is a procedure to adjust the sway bars after they are mounted so there is even sway control for both arms during the shock compression stroke There are videos showing how to do it. The most important part of changing them is adjusting them properly. The ball links are adjustable in 2 ways. Bars slide in and out and links can be extended. Initially you install both links in a vertical position. Both links should start out at the same height as well. The adjustment is done with the shocks separated from the arms. For reference....Stock thickness for the narrow front bar is 2.4mm. Stock Rear wide bar is 2.7mm.
Hope this helps.

You just blew my mind with this info. Never knew the sway bars on the RC were that important. Ive touched them plenty times servicing or changing out diffs in my outcast and infraction. I would just take the bar off and put it back on. No adjustments. I wonder if this is the reason my Infraction isnt going as straight as it use to be when racing or speed running. Which bars would you recommend for front and back to use when drag racing and a starting adjustment point? WOW, I never knew this. Learn something new everyday in this Hobby.