suspension tuning tips and tricks

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Those are amazing, was on backorder for SO long I only got mine a month or two ago. Others at the track were pretty jealous, those are a really nice upgrade.

Actually just checked and I have these on the MP10E, used m2c for Arrma

View attachment 245358
No Tekno droop screws eh? Not a racer myself so I don't speak weight savings.
BTW Tekno shocks are highly regarded by many as well.
 
I would assume softer springs and shock pistons with additional holes would allow the shock to travel faster and soak up those bumps better....
Guys who get serious about that stuff generally swap the shocks for Losi or other race brand shocks.
I was thinking the same thing and if it still needs more tuning I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Thanks you guys for all the advice!:)
 
I would assume softer springs and shock pistons with additional holes would allow the shock to travel faster and soak up those bumps better....
Guys who get serious about that stuff generally swap the shocks for Losi or other race brand shocks.
I find that having more piston holes with larger holes can make for a plush shock. Dialing them in with the right oil.
I rather have a thicker oil with a more open piston essentially. Spring rate and Damping rate have to balance out for plushness. Sometimes a tall order getting there.
I was thinking the same thing and if it still needs more tuning I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Thanks you guys for all the advice!:)
I feel if you use the standard Arrma 6s shocks along with the TLRT pistons and the matching TLRT bottom cartridge and X-rings, you will get a good shock. My TLRT shocks probably come closer to my Tekno MT shocks in plushness. TLRT's are better than the standard 6s shocks. Tekno shocks are costly. I added all the Tekno Delrin upgrade pistons and bottom cartridge. Expensive just for these upgrade parts. I think I paid like $80. for 4 shocks. CNC'ed Delrin is not cheap.
Not any of my rigs shocks can match to the Tekno's. Tekno springs are great also. I feel better matched spring steel is used.
My driveway pavement has some "woops & jumps" from tree roots pushing it up in some spots.
What's the best setup for suspension to help prevent the rear from kicking up?
Any advice will be appreciated:)
Along with Droop, you can also try laying down the rear shocks more so. Shocks Less vertical. Droop will be altered by doing this anyway. Fine tune with the droop afterwards.
Just remember that you might change things whereby you might get other handling issues. Pick your poison. Trial and error.
 
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I bet! What's the cost? I have a track at the house that my brother and I race around on. We've talked about a timing system for just such purposes.
.. okay, so I just did a quick search on the mylaps system and uh, well..nope. We aren't that serious. No disrespect but $3500? Wow!
I also looked into that. It can be stupid expensive. The transponders alone are easily a $100.+ each.
I wonder if there are alternatives to My Laps system that would work. MyLaps seems to be the Only game in town for any Sanctioned Race events.
In my searches, I found that there are many tracks that closed down and selling them used. Look into that.
I know that used transponders are like $80. But the software and Trap hardware might be had at a good price.
Check out any RC swap meets if possible.
 
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Lower rear droop a quarter turn at a time and retest.

I have the m2c zrs they slow down rebound, but you can do it with droop too.

I find that having more piston holes with larger holes can make for a plush shock. Dialing them in with the right oil.
I rather have a thicker oil with a more open piston essentially. Spring rate and Damping rate have to balance out for plushness. Sometimes a tall order getting there.

I feel if you use the standard Arrma 6s shocks along with the TLRT pistons and the matching TLRT bottom cartridge and X-rings, you will get a good shock. My TLRT shocks probably come closer to my Tekno MT shocks in plushness. TLRT's are better than the standard 6s shocks. Tekno shocks are costly. I added all the Tekno Delrin upgrade pistons and bottom cartridge. Expensive just for these upgrade parts. I think I paid like $80. for 4 shocks. CNC'ed Delrin is not cheap.
Not any of my rigs shocks can match to the Tekno's. Tekno springs are great also. I feel better matched spring steel is used.

Along with Droop, you can also try laying down the rear shocks more so. Shocks Less vertical. Droop will be altered by doing this anyway. Fine tune with the droop afterwards.
Just remember that you might change things whereby you might get other handling issues. Pick your poison. Trial and error.

So my whole setup changed but tried messing with droop and it helped 100%
Still needs some tuning though not sure how much better I personally can make it. I guess if I was going for good times or racing I would be more inclined to dig deep into it but for now I'll stick with your advice.
Next I'll lay down the shocks and test again and tune the best I can.
Thanks for your help guys!!!🤙
 
So my whole setup changed but tried messing with droop and it helped 100%
Still needs some tuning though not sure how much better I personally can make it. I guess if I was going for good times or racing I would be more inclined to dig deep into it but for now I'll stick with your advice.
Next I'll lay down the shocks and test again and tune the best I can.
Thanks for your help guys!!!🤙
Another super secret, if you have a tighter track is shorten the rear tie rod links. You'll turn a bit better, tighter.
 
I would assume softer springs and shock pistons with additional holes would allow the shock to travel faster and soak up those bumps better....
Guys who get serious about that stuff generally swap the shocks for Losi or other race brand shocks.

I have found contradictions on this topic too - Big surprise.

What I have found running across fields is that the stock soft Typhon shocks slam down, then bounce back up and just looses control and traction.
As I used heavier spring weights and much heavier oil the car stopped slamming and bouncing off the earth and I was able to get it more level and planted. Speed went up.
I also found too much spring and too fast of a return (lite oil) made the car bounce more but not from slamming down. Still looses traction. I just keep adjusting till it stays more level and the speed goes up, not down. It takes so much time to do.
This is from personal observations and just for running fast on grass. That same truggy is sprung too tight for pavement, its fun but slides and drifts very easily. Still stays planted going straight and takes road bumps and manhole covers like they weren't there at high speed but im finding that theres way too much air under the car on pavement then. im rambling, you know what I mean...

This is all so not for racing on a track, with other people all nice and civilized and all.
 
I have found contradictions on this topic too - Big surprise.

What I have found running across fields is that the stock soft Typhon shocks slam down, then bounce back up and just looses control and traction.
As I used heavier spring weights and much heavier oil the car stopped slamming and bouncing off the earth and I was able to get it more level and planted. Speed went up.
I also found too much spring and too fast of a return (lite oil) made the car bounce more but not from slamming down. Still looses traction. I just keep adjusting till it stays more level and the speed goes up, not down. It takes so much time to do.
This is from personal observations and just for running fast on grass. That same truggy is sprung too tight for pavement, its fun but slides and drifts very easily. Still stays planted going straight and takes road bumps and manhole covers like they weren't there at high speed but im finding that theres way too much air under the car on pavement then. im rambling, you know what I mean...

This is all so not for racing on a track, with other people all nice and civilized and all.
I agree that speed and terrain is a balancing act.
Turns, bumps, jumps, and what speeds going through any combo is the tricky part.
"Woops" type of bumps on my driveway which isn't even like a track woops section is what I'm dealing with.

I don't race and I run on asphalt and grass mostly along with a little gravel road. Tall order to ask for the perfect suspension
but I'm very close to getting it dialed as best I can without spending any money on new parts.
I did "upgrades" with parts that I had on hand and I only spent money on bearings so far.

I made a slo-mo vid to inspect how it acts/reacts. It feels good and looks good too in the vid but I think with a little bit tweaking I can get it just a tad more dialed.🤏

Will post the vid soon...maybe someone will see something I'm not seeing. But like I said it does feel pretty good for what it is.:)
 
I did "upgrades" with parts that I had on hand and I only spent money on bearings so far.

I made a slo-mo vid to inspect how it acts/reacts. It feels good and looks good too in the vid but I think with a little bit tweaking I can get it just a tad more dialed.🤏

Will post the vid soon...maybe someone will see something I'm not seeing. But like I said it does feel pretty good for what it is.:)
Tiny bit of bounce but very hard to tell in real time. Very happy with it but will still do some adjustments to see how much or IF I can get her better.
(music may not be for everyone. mute as needed:cool:)

 
I swapped out shock fluids in my k6exb last week..not very scientific, but dumped half the stock fluid out and topped off with Losi 25w(what I had on hand)..the difference for track duty was pretty impressive. So I just got my Amain order yesterday of 30,35,40 weights. 4oz bottles.
Obviously there's a tradeoff, bigger jumps and bumps produce more chassis slap but I run track pretty exclusively so works for me.
Still gotta work on the Mojave. I put heavier springs on, increased fluid to 60 or 70, but she's a challenge to get into shape for track duty I'm finding. Just so heavy and tippy. It wallows alot.
 
Tiny bit of bounce but very hard to tell in real time. Very happy with it but will still do some adjustments to see how much or IF I can get her better.
(music may not be for everyone. mute as needed:cool:)

I think your front is high and rear is low. Actually, I like the rear but could be higher to allow it to sink down at high speed.
 
I think your front is high and rear is low. Actually, I like the rear but could be higher to allow it to sink down at high speed.
Yea I was looking at how it sits down on throttle.
Should it sit level under power? So a little higher at rest?
 
Yea I was looking at how it sits down on throttle.
Should it sit level under power? So a little higher at rest?
In a word, yes. That's what I think anyway.

The way yours sits it looks a bit high on the front. I like the back, but could go a bit higher too because maybe its squatting too low under power? Doesn't need much. It's really the front that stood out as high, but some people run with as much clearance as they can get because of their conditions (or jumping or whatever)

It's all personal preference and where you actually drive. My place is bumpy but nice low jumps :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
In a word, yes. That's what I think anyway.

The way yours sits it looks a bit high on the front. I like the back, but could go a bit higher too because maybe its squatting too low under power? Doesn't need much. It's really the front that stood out as high, but some people run with as much clearance as they can get because of their conditions (or jumping or whatever)

It's all personal preference and where you actually drive. My place is bumpy but nice low jumps :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
I like tinkering so I'll try all given tips.

Lose control at your place and a tree will get it! :eek::ROFLMAO:
 
Happens all the time at my place!! Trees ain't no joke. What I get for trying to turn mother earths garden into an rc track I guess?🤔🤪🍻
Corrugated tubing. R/C cars best friend! We covered all the edges and impact points with it. You can get wedged, but hardly every snap anything.
Corrugated tubing. R/C cars best friend! We covered all the edges and impact points with it. You can get wedged, but hardly every snap anything.
Fun fact, this is why I run the 635oz promodeler servo because you have a better chance to free your tire once wedged in the pipes! :ROFLMAO:(y):cool:
 
Corrugated tubing. R/C cars best friend! We covered all the edges and impact points with it. You can get wedged, but hardly every snap anything.

Fun fact, this is why I run the 635oz promodeler servo because you have a better chance to free your tire once wedged in the pipes! :ROFLMAO:(y):cool:
Yup, we wrapped it around the base of the trees. Had problems with it popping up all the time, so I put a bunch of rocks inside..perhaps too many rocks.. LOL.
 
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