Talion Tailon V3 opening a new box should I see?

[fishycomics]

Talion Ver 3
IMHO: if a box was thrown all over, car laid upside down etc..

I see rear diff fluid on the top shock tower, and rear, also on the top of the box, I see some finger prints on the bottom.. some scuffs on the shell..

My Question to who purchased did you see any of this, as I am going to talk with the product specialist I purchased from?

What I did was wiped her down did the best I could, and turn her upside down to see if any fluids comes out. If Pressure from the AIrlines caused the fluid no big deal, if the factory over filled the least a note if I did not read yet was in ther box fluid may leak....

I may need to go over the car with a fine tooth comb before I run her. right now no bats so can not have fun, no rush to try her as I got all the time down the road for it.

thank you for your imput , advice, and all

FISH

 

[Jerry-rigged]

If it is all over the shock towers, I would guess leaky shocks. Not normal, but not unheard of. But scuff marks on the shell? Was this open-box return? or sold as new?

 

[fishycomics]

Brand New. As the diff fluid it looks like all over so it can be shock oil and not the diff, and I would have to open up anything is possible. you never know?

For the scuffs I see them they are just so barely there . No plastic film just saying. Body will wear in in seconds no biggie. but he diff and or shock oil is a question indeed the good thing I see is , it has a inspection sticker so that means it was checked out and passed I'll let this settle and simply rotate the rear wheels press on the shocks, keep an eye if fluid seaps out b4 I open and inspect. Not a pro or going to baby the death it's a rc model that will do fine thanks @Jerry-rigged.

I should snap a photo but a lil to late for that . the box is damp but it is a box Lol

Rather open a million and one thread. I read the manual interesting? I went over each bolt I was able to get to and one was like stripped, may have to put teflon tape to grab better it's on solid just know it's stripped? another one or two loose, and one real loose. glad I took the time, and the diff case rock solid tight? I seen and guess it was teh Kraton v3 only that had flaps for the mud not the tailon? So as I await my batteries to arrive I'll in the mean time wait along with it. not going to solder yet the xt 90 but I will need to get extra's make a banana plug no rush. will do my best to be relaxed with this model. Late r

Talked to a Specialist they agreed it can be about anything. my question now is I wondering if the Tailon had a plastic wrap over the body? this looked like there was just one hint left on the corner? so it is up to me to decide the next step as it is noted if any issues come about with the product? Until I have a real good reason to open up the diff, as well the shock that will only tell me what has happened. Iwill enjoy it the worst scenerio is out a diff.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I'd say get some 10k, 100k diff fluid on order and some 50 or 80 wt for the shocks. In a run or three you will want to go thru them all anyway, just because it is a new truck. OR I would want to, anyway.

 

[fishycomics]

thanks for the input. I seen some more fluid so what I did was removed just the back left shock, opened up looks filled , re-tightened and placed in a plastic bag, shock upside down, To see if the threads and air are allowing it to escape. If the bag is damp in the AM then it is the shock. My next step is to look at the diff, open up and inspect but that I will hold off.

So you are saying to get some diff oil and grease? and shock oil. thanks in time I will. for now it's figuring out he mystery.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

You might also want to check the o rings in the shocks it sounds to me like bad assembly of you finding stripped and loose screws as for putting teflon tape on a stripped screw I wouldn't it's a brand new truck if it was me I'd replace the screw depending on which screw you are referring to if it is going into plastic you can go up 1 size in screw to make sure it has a firm bite into the part it is holding. Putting teflon on it is like putting a bandaid on a bullet wound will help for a second but it won't fix the problem. Jmo

@iantheoutcast

It is new. Anything is possible, if it is that shock tower, simple fix or a replacement from the supplier. For a stripped bolt/screw, I not go up a size unless it is necessary and the part its locking down. Teflon ta[e is enough to grab and hold. it is not too loose it is more a feel thing. but I will keep that in mind? Machines/Humans make mistakes, and that is why we all should go over the Product model and make sure everything is in order.

I am not crying about this I am just talking about it, we can not send back a product because of one little screw was not tightened down, but you can send it back if the product does not meet your Satisfaction. I chose to Inform the Supplier and keep in talks till I find a solution that they will resolve, while I wait for the batteries and plugs. Once I find the leak I will request. the parts and go from there. I like to work things out if it is a simple quick fix. which is.

Update:

Shock; Looks dry no signs of fluid on her or in the bag at all, As a loose cap could have been the issue or not.

Tailon; looking at the back all looks dry as I brushed and cleaned all fluids off.

Allowing the shock to sit differently now, and the Tailon later will rotate the wheels and see if any leaks come out. More or less Inspect your Rc models when new.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

I always go over mine with a fine tooth comb when I get a new rig not to mention do a full tare down after every time I take it out. I was just giving a suggestion for a different fix. Never said u were crying about it was just trying to give u a couple ideas sorry if u took it any other way. I completely agree with going over a rig after you buy it. I have multiple 8th scale arrmas and I've had my camber off when I got the outcast. I had 2 screw that hold the mount for motor down loose when I got the kraton and my typhon 2 of the wheels where only finger tight. I always tell people to look over the rig before they take it out for the first time.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

Another thing u could check would b the grub screws in the side of the diff cup, could have a loose screw in the 43t that is allowing fluid to escape or you could also have a bad gasket In 1 of

the diffs I change all my gaskets to the losi diff seals they are much better then the factory arrma ones and they are a direct fit just trying to give u ideas of what it could b nothing more.

 

[fishycomics]

Another thing u could check would b the grub screws in the side of the diff cup, could have a loose screw in the 43t that is allowing fluid to escape or you could also have a bad gasket In 1 ofView attachment 18405 the diffs I change all my gaskets to the losi diff seals they are much better then the factory arrma ones and they are a direct fit just trying to give u ideas of what it could b nothing more.

Not offended at all. I just speak my mind. And may have said it wrong. If I take your post and interpret it I may say the same. So yeah. I will check it out for sure

I'd say get some 10k, 100k diff fluid on order and some 50 or 80 wt for the shocks. In a run or three you will want to go thru them all anyway, just because it is a new truck. OR I would want to, anyway.

Had some time again to recheck the manual and appreciate the correct info. I will go ahead place an order to also work on the other rc model time to do that lil maintenance thanks again.

Spoke in person to the LHS (local hobby store) 10K factory oil none, so I will start out 60K if it needs it. I have to start some where, and he agreed that should get me started. I was invited to come back .... In the store they had the Tailon same price but Taxed so I felt I saved $$$. I started a new thread about my wheelie bar when i can get a solid piece of metal (2) I will finish it, it's on. and will work on the diff. My plugs never came today so I shall wait some more no rush to have issues right?

FISH

D R Y rear diff had no oil/fluid. now it's all correctly filled will need to look at the front, then the center. diff I do not have center diff weight bought so I'll carefully inspect later.

to add fuel to this fire looks like a alignment is needed if I set the car on its side wheels straight, rears are cambered in that will help for the lean. but one wheel is to the left or right depending how you look at it. so when I get my connectors i will wait to adjust. that will be another day but it will be front diff to look at next, then center, then steering. RUSHED car if asked things happen.

FISH

Update: opened up the Front no video it has some not a lot of oil and I will be forced to order a heavier weight for the Center and do that another tine. One thing I know is it is now correctly taken care of. me noted

Got to the Center Diff locktite what a killer used heat method did my ultimate best lost a bolt no big deal. if I need to by a motor mount replacement down the road I will chose a better colour Lol and bolt. and the fluid level was fine. so no need to add but i will down the road..

My next task is to work on the steering why one wheel favors to one direction, so it must be my bad day for me Lol

free picture upload

So it will be turn on tx turn on Rx servo centers torqe the bars and do my best to have a straight car

 

[fishycomics]

A lil update:

I tuned up the alignment goes straight. will tell down the road how the tires wear. quick change them, nah I will use them. All stock it goes in my eyes about high 30's maybe 40 if lucky on 4S it's fast enough to enjoy it for now. knowing down the road the speed gear on 2S, then back to stock with 6S and maxed out with the speed gear on 6S..

Going to say with all the small issue I will enjoy the car when the time is right, all tweaked out. hope my notes help others out. It is a better car then the one's I own as how it rides and getting the feel for it for now.....

FISH

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