Talion Talion 6S. My disappointing experience

[Klappars]

I have owned a V3 Talion for a year now.

So far it has been one of the most disappointing RC’s I have owned in 8 years of being in the hobby.

I had high hopes/expectations of this car due to thorough research on forums and YouTube videos of the Arrma 6S range I was expecting a significantly better car in every way than my HPI Blitz.

Unfortunately far too often something goes wrong with this car, it isn’t always the cars fault but I rarely get to run a set of 4 batteries (4 and 6S) without something going wrong or breaking. For example here is a list of some of the problems I have had with this car.

• Front driveshafts popping out the outdrives
• Chassis bending easily even with GKA chassis braces
• Batteries bending due to chassis flex
• Motor coming loose and losing spur/pinion mesh
• Diffs leaking oil, especially centre diff
• Motor wires coming unplugged when the chassis flexes
• Gearbox case cracks easily (upgraded to hot racing aluminum one)
• Driveshafts, outdrives and diff input cups wear out quickly
• Front body mounts frequently come loose
• Many hours spent working on the car staying up late and getting my hands dirty just to get the car ready for the weekend.

This is an inconclusive list of issues I have had with this car. Even when the car does work well and I can run all 4 batteries it still costs a lot of money to run due to the cost of replacing driveline parts frequently and the cost of tyres, batteries, electronics etc. For reference my car is by no means stock and has several upgrade parts as well as an upgraded power system listed below.

• Hobbywing MAX8 with Hobbystar 4082 1600kv motor, Power HD Storm 4 HV servo. Futaba 3PV radio. gensacearespammers 50c 4S, Graphene 65C 4S, Overlander 35C 4S and gensacearespammers 60C 6S batteries.
• GKA chassis braces
• Voltage servo mount
• Carbon steering rack
• RPM front bumper, rear skid plate, wing mount and a-arms
• HR centre diff case
• HR gearbox case (front)

I also ran a tower to tower brace recently to try and reduce chassis flex. Despite all these upgrades the Talion is still not reliable fun especially considering how much the whole setup cost. My HPI Blitz was far more reliable and durable, though less capable. When the Talion is working well I love its stability and cornering capability as well as how easy it is to control in the air and the power and speed of 6S.

Given that other people’s experiences with these cars seems to be very positive, it would seem I have been unlucky. I am a decently skilled driver and have been in the hobby for years, I don’t do sending it to the extreme like a lot of people on YouTube do, I mostly drive the car around the local parks. The highest jump the car has ever done is probably 15-20ft.

As a result of this I will be selling the Talion as a rolling chassis. I have been looking at a Tekno ET48.3 to replace it however the parts cost appears quite high for that car; therefore I am now looking at the new Kraton 4x4 4S or a Traxxas Rustler 4x4.

For those that could be bothered, thank you for reading this.

 

[LOVEMYRCMUNNYPIT]

A buddy of mine owns a talion. He’s on his third esc. He’s debating on selling his talion. Hasn’t even ran it much. The only problems I’ve had with my outcast are due to jumping and crashing. Have been easy fixes, but in the long run, they add up.

 

[Chrismc]

That’s crazy. I love my v3 Kraton. Every time I take it out I experience the stomach drop when you know you messed up. But every damn time it just keeps going.

 

[NewToArrma]

It’s unfortunate that you’ve experienced such carnage, hopefully you’ll have better luck with your next rc

 

[GMballistic]

@leo248 that does suck and tbh I've heard nothing but good from most about the Talion.

I notice you're UK based, ...I spotted this earlier on MSUK which I thought looked a good deal: https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums...8ight-t-e-30-roller-plus-loads-of-new-spares/

I'm not the seller but just a heads up in case it was something you'd be interested in. Looks similar to the Tekno you mentioned.

 

[Sledgehog]

If you think you've had issues on the Talion, do NOT get a Traxxas Rustler

 

[Klappars]

@leo248 that does suck and tbh I've heard nothing but good from most about the Talion.

I notice you're UK based, ...I spotted this earlier on MSUK which I thought looked a good deal: https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums...8ight-t-e-30-roller-plus-loads-of-new-spares/

I'm not the seller but just a heads up in case it was something you'd be interested in. Looks similar to the Tekno you mentioned.

Thanks for that. I did have a look, only issue is the parts suppport from modelsport isn’t great and they are the closest shop to me.

 

[Harrisy]

My experience with my Talion has been the exact opposite. I guess it's hard to say with driving habits and maintainence. But big jumps haven't been an issue at all, stock chassis and GKA chassis braces as well here. I think you can't go wrong with the Tekno. ET48.3 or MT410, if those break too then we can start looking at your driving habits ?

 

[Sledgehog]

I'm going to second I've had nothing but good from my Talion.

What are you doing when it breaks and how are you flexing the chassis so badly (and often)? Specially when people like Duperbash literally make their Talion fly on a regular basis and doesn't have half the issues you have with half the upgrades.
Also you're running a 1600kv system? That's a LOT of torque you're putting on everything and most of your complaints seem to stem from the drivetrain (drive shafts, diff cups, gears coming loose, chassis flex, etc)
How is it geared? You also seem to have threads stating you had major heat issues. Kind of sounds like you're expecting way too much out of this thing and using gearing/electronics that weren't exactly meant for it.

 

[NewToArrma]

People get lemon cars from very reputable manufacturers.I suppose it can happen with rc’s unfortunately

 

[Sledgehog]

People get lemon cars from very reputable manufacturers.I suppose it can happen with rc’s unfortunately

I'm still betting on the fact he's slamming on the trigger with a high torque system and wrecking his drivetrain and other parts. i.e. User error.

 

[Natedawg]

I have owned a V3 Talion for a year now.

So far it has been one of the most disappointing RC’s I have owned in 8 years of being in the hobby.

I had high hopes/expectations of this car due to thorough research on forums and YouTube videos of the Arrma 6S range I was expecting a significantly better car in every way than my HPI Blitz.

Unfortunately far too often something goes wrong with this car, it isn’t always the cars fault but I rarely get to run a set of 4 batteries (4 and 6S) without something going wrong or breaking. For example here is a list of some of the problems I have had with this car.

- Front driveshafts popping out the outdrives
- Chassis bending easily even with GKA chassis braces
- Batteries bending due to chassis flex
- Motor coming loose and losing spur/pinion mesh
- Diffs leaking oil, especially centre diff
- Motor wires coming unplugged when the chassis flexes
- Gearbox case cracks easily (upgraded to hot racing aluminium one)
- Driveshafts, outdrives and diff input cups wear out quickly
- Front body mounts frequently come loose
- Many hours spent working on the car staying up late and getting my hands dirty just to get the car ready for the weekend.

This is an inconclusive list of issues I have had with this car. Even when the car does work well and I can run all 4 batteries it still costs a lot of money to run due to the cost of replacing driveline parts frequently and the cost of tyres, batteries, electronics etc. For reference my car is by no means stock and has several upgrade parts as well as an upgraded power system listed below.

- Hobbywing MAX8 with Hobbystar 4082 1600kv motor, Power HD Storm 4 HV servo. Futaba 3PV radio. gensacearespammers 50c 4S, Graphene 65C 4S, Overlander 35C 4S and gensacearespammers 60C 6S batteries.

- GKA chassis braces
- Voltage servo mount
- Carbon steering rack
- RPM front bumper, rear skid plate, wing mount and a-arms
- HR centre diff case
- HR gearbox case (front)

I also ran a tower to tower brace recently to try and reduce chassis flex. Despite all these upgrades the Talion is still not reliable fun especially considering how much the whole setup cost. My HPI Blitz was far more reliable and durable, though less capable. When the Talion is working well I love its stability and cornering capability as well as how easy it is to control in the air and the power and speed of 6S.

Given that other people’s experiences with these cars seems to be very positive, it would seem I have been unlucky. I am a decently skilled driver and have been in the hobby for years, I don’t do sending it to the extreme like a lot of people on YouTube do, I mostly drive the car around the local parks. The highest jump the car has ever done is probably 15-20ft.

As a result of this I will be selling the Talion as a rolling chassis. I have been looking at a Tekno ET48.3 to replace it however the parts cost appears quite high for that car; therefore I am now looking at the new Kraton 4x4 4S or a Traxxas Rustler 4x4.

For those that could be bothered, thank you for reading this.

Damn ... I thought I was pissed that I had to replace a front diff, 1 rear and 1 front control arm and 1 shock end after only 4 months ...and 15-20’ high jumps are our usual sends.. but when we go for distance it a whole other ball game..sorry to hear about what sounds like a lemon ?...it looks as though your driving is sound. Just know that all those breakage’s are not the norm bud.. my buddy sends the ever loving hell out of his 6s TYPHON and that A$$HOLE has NEVER once broke a single thing and he launches that thing 40’ high and close to 100’ in distance.

 

[martysmith223]

how much for the car I may buy it for a good deal

 

[Steveoarrma517]

Think fellas, manufacturers say they can handle 6s but not for how long. Plus "Think scale ", how high can I jump my real car.(da)

 

[Sledgehog]

Also curious, when OP says "I rarely get to run a set of 4 batteries (4 and 6S) without something going wrong or breaking" does he mean, in a row all at once? Heat alone will cause all that stuff mentioned to stress and break without a proper cooldown period on any vehicle.

 

[Jimbobjr]

Think fellas, manufacturers say they can handle 6s but not for how long. Plus "Think scale ", how high can I jump my real car.(da)

Who runs 4s?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I am wondering if the added cushion of the Kraton/Outcast/notorious tires are what makes the difference? All the other parts are about the same between the models.
Sounds like for the style of jumping you enjoy it would best to look at aftermarket chassis. I realize its an expensive upgrade, but most of the failures seen were related to chassis flex/bending.

 

[Wmorgan]

Does OP have any video of a typical bash session? Curious what kind of stresses are being put on the model. So far my Arrmas have endured some tough collisions with out any breaks. Of course I'm used to running another brand that we'll go unnamed, but it starts with "T" and ends with "ass".

 

[Skidpants]

I’m surprised how much trouble you’re had! I absolutely abused my Talion and only had a couple small breakages, mainly the tires now causing my problems. Think a Kraton would suit my needs better.

 

[Klappars]

I'm going to second I've had nothing but good from my Talion.

What are you doing when it breaks and how are you flexing the chassis so badly (and often)? Specially when people like Duperbash literally make their Talion fly on a regular basis and doesn't have half the issues you have with half the upgrades.
Also you're running a 1600kv system? That's a LOT of torque you're putting on everything and most of your complaints seem to stem from the drivetrain (drive shafts, diff cups, gears coming loose, chassis flex, etc)
How is it geared? You also seem to have threads stating you had major heat issues. Kind of sounds like you're expecting way too much out of this thing and using gearing/electronics that weren't exactly meant for it.

- The car usually has issues when I attempt any kind of jump. The chassis issues crop up hen i've just got started at a BMX track for example, so a couple weeks ago, 5 minutes in to taking it easy on the jumps, no more than about 10 feet high, no backflips or bad landings and the car stopped, I went to check it and the motor wires had unplugged and the battery was bent quite a lot. Soon after plugging the wires back in my ESC starts to come loose so I just gave up for the day.

Another example, last weekend I went to a skatepark, fully aware of the potential damage that can be caused. Again, nice flat landings, no crashes and within literally 5 minutes my motor had loosened and wasn't meshed properly anymore. After taking the ESC out to get to the motor mount screws which are M4 cap head screws! not 10 minutes after the car gets going again, I land a few more jumps and my steering cuts out. I find out that my £80 servo was dead.

Another time when this car has frustrated me was when I was at the local park driving around on grass and going over a gentle grass hump. The car lands about a 5 foot jump and one of the front CVD's pops out and gets jammed between the a-arm and gearbox case. This kept happening and I had to limit the front suspension travel to prevent this. Something which surely shouldn't be necessary?

As for the power system; yes it does have a bit more torque than the stock BLX system, however I didn't buy it to have more power or go faster. I run the ESC at punch level 2/5 and I don't slam on the throttle because I have the mechanical sympathy to understand what damage/wear this causes. As well as the fact that I'm not interested in doing wheelies everywhere I just like driving my car fast around the park which is why the stock power system overheated. I am running a 20t pinion on this motor and it runs great now.