Talion Talion EXB Ultra Track Basher

[21STalion]

Yeah, here too man. It’s a balmy 8° Fahrenheit at the moment. I haven’t been able to get out any trucks for almost three weeks. We’ve had lows below zero and highs in the teens and twenties and it’s so easy to break stuff in that kind of cold. Maybe next week!
Highest speed I’ve had on the stock wheels and tires are 57mph. That ended poorly, but the tires held up! When it’s warm enough I’m going for a flat out speed run. Expecting low to mid 60’s—the speed, not the temperature!

I will have to get a set of street tires for a speed run, I want to get a top speed out of this thing on 8s or maybe 6s :S
I took her out in the snow for a few minutes two week ago and it was plenty fun!

 

[Dan B.]

I will have to get a set of street tires for a speed run, I want to get a top speed out of this thing on 8s or maybe 6s :S
I took her out in the snow for a few minutes two week ago and it was plenty fun!

Yeah, I’ve had fun in the snow as well but I’m pretty much done with that, especially for my Mojave. I don’t have the scorched fenders installed and I’ve never run another rig that funnels everything into the chassis like this one does. It’s fun, but a half hour outing in mud or snow equals an hour or more of partial disassembly, intense cleaning, drying, and re-lubing everything when I could be working on another build. Besides, it’s just too freaking cold here right now anyway.

 

[21STalion]

Is the Castle 1717 1650kz combo worth it? Yes. Yes, it is.

That is all

 

[Dan B.]

Is the Castle 1717 1650kz combo worth it? Yes. Yes, it is.

That is all

Please elaborate!

 

[21STalion]

Please elaborate!

Going to wait for another track day before I report back in detail.
I've only been bashing around and the weather is poor - but I LOVE it so far.
Much bigger difference that I thought it would be.
This thing can basically just rock crawl now if you want...

 

[Deiglie]

Please elaborate!

8s vs 6s motor
More powerful esc
Bec 8,0 vs 7,4v
Sensor (better response)
Data logging
Aux cabel
Motor temp cutoff

 

[21STalion]

CASTLE TRACK UPDATE

Hoekay meng, so just got back from the track.

• Castle 1717-1650kv Sensored - running on 3S
• Tiny shim in front of front a-arm
• Front diff - 10k maximum effect
• Mid diff - 100k maximum effect
• Rear - 3k minimum effect
• Acumen stock - rearward
• 23T Pinion
• 2000cst shock oil (stock) with m2c valves/caps
• Shocks are at 13mm Front and 11.5mm Rear - and I like the ride height
• Droop - well I have it adjusted for just about as much droop as I can get. The front has a little less, just to the point before it starts to bind the tie rod ends at full extension & lock. Phew, that was an annoying adjustment.
• Shocks layed down both front and rear
• There is a few degrees toe out - similar to stock or maybe a touch less
• Ran two sets of wheels tonight, Buggy 1/8th and Truggy 1/8th

The bad news: Top speed is too low with the buggy tires, but adequate with the truggy tires on 3S. Using the biggest pinion I can get on there with the EXB mount. Anyone have any ideas to get taller gears? I cracked two pro-line Truggy rims already. Might have to try out some AKA's. My front HR hub carriers screws worked themselves loose on the steering ear on time as expected. Just like the rears did, They don't seem to come threadlocked, you need to remove, clean, and thread lock which I neglected to do when the rears came loose. It didn't come apart at the track luckily, you can just see it loose. I am still thankful for these heavy ass parts because in this cold the plastic hub carriers would be snapping regularly.

The good news: Truggy tires are working out really well this time. While the buggy tires worked with the 2050kv. 1650 is far too low for the buggy wheels. I was immediately faster with the truggy wheels (opposite result of last outing!). I'm going to remove the fan and fan mount from the motor. After 20 laps I can't even feel heat on the motor. I've ordered a few SMC 135C 4s batteries (day 'eavy doe), and someone at the track was showing me some overvolted 4S from gens-ace-r-spam that seem VERY promising.


Handling report:

• Rear end feels good but the front end is too stiff. I'm going to drop down to 1,000 CST for the front for tomorrow. The car feels quite balanced actually, very controllable. There is no need for large adjustments. Wish I could do a 1,500 CST ... which I might mix up....
• Vehicle is too heavy, all the other truggy's are at least 1 lbs lighter and more specialized for racing. I can keep up, but not next to a pro-driver. Me and this car are limited to armature hour at the track it seems - at least for now. Luckily everyone is crashing regularly enough that it's still anyone's race.
• Centre diff might be too heavy at 100k maximum effect....but I'm leaving diffs alone for now. Front and rear are fantastic.

Castle Motor Report:

• The sensored motor feels night and day difference better around the track compared to nonsenseored. It's a tight, technical track with lots of really tight corners, and being able to have so much control at lower speeds has been a significant improvement in control. There is this hairpin 180 that comes off a double and onto a big double, you have to pin it from nearly zero to make the big double or slow boat it over. You need a sensor on this track - period. And those Tekin motors feel really smooth - even smoother than the castle on the typhoon tlr I tested.
• 1650kv is a little low for the track on 3s, honestly - top speed is suffering significantly even at 23T pinion. However, the level of torque and low speed control is amazing compared to the rtr EXB 2050kv. I can just 180 the car anytime I want by just blipping the throttle and quick jerk of the wheel which has saved my bacon a few times on the multiple hairpin turns. Kind of wishing I went with the higher KV still - I feel I should be around a 1900. But this motor is for my recreational bashing too with the huge wheel so its a compromise. We will see when the 4S batts come and then later the overvolted 4S - maybe 1650 will be okay after all. It's fantastic at 6S, doesn't matter the tires lol, but we're probably too heavy (and powerful) at 6s for the track. Going down to 1/8th buggy tires (110mm) doesn't fly on anything less than 6s. And on 6s you can rip the tires apart. Truggy tires are far more functional. Even better are the 175mm tires, which I've been telling people is a BLAST on 3S and the weight you save on the battery offsets the wheels a bit.

Track Report:

• So lucky to have found this private track. It's amazing. We were about 4c today, pretty cold. They just redid the dirt and just got a mylaps system - its being installed right now. I installed my transponder already. We're almost ready for real timed laps! It's 100% sifted topsoil. Loose, soft. Beautiful to crash on. The wheels are constantly being encrusted with damp rich soil so traction is hard to find a few laps in.

Vehicle Damage Report:
Vehicle suffered no damages or breakages despite many crashes. The wheels continue to be the weakpoint - cracking the rims on the inside edge. Didn't suffer any new cracks this time but they are degrading the wheels quickly.

Wheel Report:
Buggy wheels are out on the 1650kv. You need so much more voltage you don't have the top end. I'm back on 140mm truggy wheels for tomorrow. I may try to look for stronger wheels - wish I could find an AKA 1/8th Truggy on Cross Brace Super Soft with firm foams. That would be my dream wheel - but don't seem to be available - anyone know how to get them or something similar?

Changes to vehicle for tomorrows practice:

• Decreasing to 1000CST or 1500 CST front shocks
• Truggy wheels and tires 4.0" - Pro-line HoleShots S3 (next time I'm going M4 something or super soft in this cold ass weather)
• Removing motor fan and aluminum mount - zero heat making out of the motor. Running an 8s motor on 3s in freezing weather and almost never flat out - it can do it sleeping.
• Removed RPM rear mud guards - just don't need them on this soft soil track. They are collecting more dirt and I have a theory that they are creating additional drag instead of letting the soft soil just fly through the rear suspension.
• My rear shocks are now laying down, front as well remain layed down.

More time at the track tomorrow - lets hope for more batteries and a fully operational mylaps system

• 
  

 

[Dan B.]

CASTLE TRACK UPDATE

Hoekay meng, so just got back from the track.

• Castle 1717-1650kv Sensored - running on 3S
• Tiny shim in front of front a-arm
• Front diff - 10k maximum effect
• Mid diff - 100k maximum effect
• Rear - 3k minimum effect
• Acumen stock - rearward
• 23T Pinion
• 2000cst shock oil (stock) with m2c valves/caps
• Shocks are at 13mm Front and 11.5mm Rear - and I like the ride height
• Droop - well I have it adjusted for just about as much droop as I can get. The front has a little less, just to the point before it starts to bind the tie rod ends at full extension & lock. Phew, that was an annoying adjustment.
• Shocks layed down both front and rear
• There is a few degrees toe out - similar to stock or maybe a touch less
• Ran two sets of wheels tonight, Buggy 1/8th and Truggy 1/8th

The bad news: Top speed is too low with the buggy tires, but adequate with the truggy tires on 3S. Using the biggest pinion I can get on there with the EXB mount. Anyone have any ideas to get taller gears? I cracked two pro-line Truggy rims already. Might have to try out some AKA's. My front HR hub carriers screws worked themselves loose on the steering ear on time as expected. Just like the rears did, They don't seem to come threadlocked, you need to remove, clean, and thread lock which I neglected to do when the rears came loose. It didn't come apart at the track luckily, you can just see it loose. I am still thankful for these heavy ass parts because in this cold the plastic hub carriers would be snapping regularly.

The good news: Truggy tires are working out really well this time. While the buggy tires worked with the 2050kv. 1650 is far too low for the buggy wheels. I was immediately faster with the truggy wheels (opposite result of last outing!). I'm going to remove the fan and fan mount from the motor. After 20 laps I can't even feel heat on the motor. I've ordered a few SMC 135C 4s batteries (day 'eavy doe), and someone at the track was showing me some overvolted 4S from gens-ace-r-spam that seem VERY promising.


Handling report:

• Rear end feels good but the front end is too stiff. I'm going to drop down to 1,000 CST for the front for tomorrow. The car feels quite balanced actually, very controllable. There is no need for large adjustments. Wish I could do a 1,500 CST ... which I might mix up....
• Vehicle is too heavy, all the other truggy's are at least 1 lbs lighter and more specialized for racing. I can keep up, but not next to a pro-driver. Me and this car are limited to armature hour at the track it seems - at least for now. Luckily everyone is crashing regularly enough that it's still anyone's race.
• Centre diff might be too heavy at 100k maximum effect....but I'm leaving diffs alone for now. Front and rear are fantastic.

Castle Motor Report:

• The sensored motor feels night and day difference better around the track compared to nonsenseored. It's a tight, technical track with lots of really tight corners, and being able to have so much control at lower speeds has been a significant improvement in control. There is this hairpin 180 that comes off a double and onto a big double, you have to pin it from nearly zero to make the big double or slow boat it over. You need a sensor on this track - period. And those Tekin motors feel really smooth - even smoother than the castle on the typhoon tlr I tested.
• 1650kv is a little low for the track on 3s, honestly - top speed is suffering significantly even at 23T pinion. However, the level of torque and low speed control is amazing compared to the rtr EXB 2050kv. I can just 180 the car anytime I want by just blipping the throttle and quick jerk of the wheel which has saved my bacon a few times on the multiple hairpin turns. Kind of wishing I went with the higher KV still - I feel I should be around a 1900. But this motor is for my recreational bashing too with the huge wheel so its a compromise. We will see when the 4S batts come and then later the overvolted 4S - maybe 1650 will be okay after all. It's fantastic at 6S, doesn't matter the tires lol, but we're probably too heavy (and powerful) at 6s for the track. Going down to 1/8th buggy tires (110mm) doesn't fly on anything less than 6s. And on 6s you can rip the tires apart. Truggy tires are far more functional. Even better are the 175mm tires, which I've been telling people is a BLAST on 3S and the weight you save on the battery offsets the wheels a bit.

Track Report:

• So lucky to have found this private track. It's amazing. We were about 4c today, pretty cold. They just redid the dirt and just got a mylaps system - its being installed right now. I installed my transponder already. We're almost ready for real timed laps! It's 100% sifted topsoil. Loose, soft. Beautiful to crash on. The wheels are constantly being encrusted with damp rich soil so traction is hard to find a few laps in.

Vehicle Damage Report:
Vehicle suffered no damages or breakages despite many crashes. The wheels continue to be the weakpoint - cracking the rims on the inside edge. Didn't suffer any new cracks this time but they are degrading the wheels quickly.

Wheel Report:
Buggy wheels are out on the 1650kv. You need so much more voltage you don't have the top end. I'm back on 140mm truggy wheels for tomorrow. I may try to look for stronger wheels - wish I could find an AKA 1/8th Truggy on Cross Brace Super Soft with firm foams. That would be my dream wheel - but don't seem to be available - anyone know how to get them or something similar?

Changes to vehicle for tomorrows practice:

• Decreasing to 1000CST or 1500 CST front shocks
• Truggy wheels and tires 4.0" - Pro-line HoleShots S3 (next time I'm going M4 something or super soft in this cold ass weather)
• Removing motor fan and aluminum mount - zero heat making out of the motor. Running an 8s motor on 3s in freezing weather and almost never flat out - it can do it sleeping.
• Removed RPM rear mud guards - just don't need them on this soft soil track. They are collecting more dirt and I have a theory that they are creating additional drag instead of letting the soft soil just fly through the rear suspension.
• My rear shocks are now laying down, front as well remain layed down.

More time at the track tomorrow - lets hope for more batteries and a fully operational mylaps system

• View attachment 199573View attachment 199572

I’ve never really thought I needed a sensored system, but your reports are making me intrigued with the idea. I’ll probably try one out one of these days, not sure on which rig though.
And I’ll say it again, kudos on the most comprehensive and detailed build thread I’ve seen anywhere. Nice job, great information. I’m sure this will help a ton of Talion guys out there.
I’m going to start another build soon. I want to build a hairy, balls-out street ripper based on a Typhon swb and will definitely incorporate a few of your ideas when I do it. Unlike actual track performance, additional weight can help a lot with a speed run/street basher setup. Good god, I hope to not be divorced…. My wife exhibits massive eye-rolls already and I’ve already had to absorb too much square footage in the old homestead to accommodate this obsession. I love this hobby. And my wife, too! Whatever happens, I’m leaning towards keeping the wife…

 

[21STalion]

CASTLE TRACK UPDATE - Part 2

After an additional 8 batteries and about 300 laps at the track I have the following comments

Car setup:

• Setup is described in detail in the above post, I went with 1,000 cst in the front shocks.

Handling report:

• The car handles beautifully now. Was getting some really consistent laps later on. There is still a touch of understeer, which is making it easier to drive for now, but I should be increasing the turning on the front end. The rear end turns VERY nicely perfectly tracking the front anywhere it wants to go unless I hit the power. I'm not going to change the car much other than making it lighter and lighter in center diff fluid.

Vehicle Durability Report:

• No damages to note despite many crashes. I'm fully tearing down the car and rebuilding and noted 2 bent pins. Both on the front left. Where the upper arms connects to the car and where the lower arm connects to the car. The lower one is an M2C part, the upper one is an EXB part. Bent pins I consider to be regular wear and tear - you can just bend them back. I'm going to replace them because I want the car to perform consistently.

Wheel Report:

• Pro-Line holeshot m3 truggy 4.0" (S3) are great. Love em. Wish they were M4 compound instead of S3 because we are playing near freezing. Wish the lugs were a bit bigger too. An M4 Crimefighter in a 4.0" Truggy would be ideal... Or the supersoft AKA Cross Brace as mentioned above... The search for wheels/tires continues. Same issues as before, the lower speed of the track isn't clearing the soft soil from the wheel pattern quickly enough and you start sliding around heavily after a few laps, you have to blip full throttle to clean the wheels on occasion. Sucks the car handles so differently at the start of the battery compared to the end of the battery.

Planned changes to vehicle:

• Looks like bashing season is over and we're back to the track regularly. @Dan B. will be pleased, he's going to get to see the race version of the car soon. It's in 200 pieces right now and it's getting the McLoving treatment. I have devised a way to remove AN ENTIRE POUND off the car. My only concern is the sway bar which I won't know how to mount just yet.
• ROAR legal will require I remove the extended rear width track. Luckily we are not a ROAR track so I get to keep my extra wide rear end for now. There is probably 30gr-35gr tied up in extended the track width, but I feel that is a small price to pay for a track width about an inch wider than stock. It's wider than the Kraton as well.
• There is a very real possibility I switch to a castle 1512 1800kv for the racing setup. Although I'm LOVING the big block setup I have currently. But I can use the extra KV's with the few S's and I can save 200gr on that motor alone.
• Diffs - diffs are being rebuilt as we speak. I'm carefully considering the oil and will likely be DECREASING the center diff viscosity. Front and rear are pretty darn skookum so they will stay for now.

Track Report:

• Track is sifted topsoil. It was damp but not wet, sunny and clear at first before nightfall, cold but no rain. Soil is clogging up my tread after a few laps.

Will provide the next report after the next track day and/or after the race build is complete. Haven't order the motor yet, I might try a LHS before I do.

 

[Moirae]

CASTLE TRACK UPDATE

Hoekay meng, so just got back from the track.

• Castle 1717-1650kv Sensored - running on 3S
• Tiny shim in front of front a-arm
• Front diff - 10k maximum effect
• Mid diff - 100k maximum effect
• Rear - 3k minimum effect
• Acumen stock - rearward
• 23T Pinion
• 2000cst shock oil (stock) with m2c valves/caps
• Shocks are at 13mm Front and 11.5mm Rear - and I like the ride height
• Droop - well I have it adjusted for just about as much droop as I can get. The front has a little less, just to the point before it starts to bind the tie rod ends at full extension & lock. Phew, that was an annoying adjustment.
• Shocks layed down both front and rear
• There is a few degrees toe out - similar to stock or maybe a touch less
• Ran two sets of wheels tonight, Buggy 1/8th and Truggy 1/8th

The bad news: Top speed is too low with the buggy tires, but adequate with the truggy tires on 3S. Using the biggest pinion I can get on there with the EXB mount. Anyone have any ideas to get taller gears? I cracked two pro-line Truggy rims already. Might have to try out some AKA's. My front HR hub carriers screws worked themselves loose on the steering ear on time as expected. Just like the rears did, They don't seem to come threadlocked, you need to remove, clean, and thread lock which I neglected to do when the rears came loose. It didn't come apart at the track luckily, you can just see it loose. I am still thankful for these heavy ass parts because in this cold the plastic hub carriers would be snapping regularly.

The good news: Truggy tires are working out really well this time. While the buggy tires worked with the 2050kv. 1650 is far too low for the buggy wheels. I was immediately faster with the truggy wheels (opposite result of last outing!). I'm going to remove the fan and fan mount from the motor. After 20 laps I can't even feel heat on the motor. I've ordered a few SMC 135C 4s batteries (day 'eavy doe), and someone at the track was showing me some overvolted 4S from gens-ace-r-spam that seem VERY promising.


Handling report:

• Rear end feels good but the front end is too stiff. I'm going to drop down to 1,000 CST for the front for tomorrow. The car feels quite balanced actually, very controllable. There is no need for large adjustments. Wish I could do a 1,500 CST ... which I might mix up....
• Vehicle is too heavy, all the other truggy's are at least 1 lbs lighter and more specialized for racing. I can keep up, but not next to a pro-driver. Me and this car are limited to armature hour at the track it seems - at least for now. Luckily everyone is crashing regularly enough that it's still anyone's race.
• Centre diff might be too heavy at 100k maximum effect....but I'm leaving diffs alone for now. Front and rear are fantastic.

Castle Motor Report:

• The sensored motor feels night and day difference better around the track compared to nonsenseored. It's a tight, technical track with lots of really tight corners, and being able to have so much control at lower speeds has been a significant improvement in control. There is this hairpin 180 that comes off a double and onto a big double, you have to pin it from nearly zero to make the big double or slow boat it over. You need a sensor on this track - period. And those Tekin motors feel really smooth - even smoother than the castle on the typhoon tlr I tested.
• 1650kv is a little low for the track on 3s, honestly - top speed is suffering significantly even at 23T pinion. However, the level of torque and low speed control is amazing compared to the rtr EXB 2050kv. I can just 180 the car anytime I want by just blipping the throttle and quick jerk of the wheel which has saved my bacon a few times on the multiple hairpin turns. Kind of wishing I went with the higher KV still - I feel I should be around a 1900. But this motor is for my recreational bashing too with the huge wheel so its a compromise. We will see when the 4S batts come and then later the overvolted 4S - maybe 1650 will be okay after all. It's fantastic at 6S, doesn't matter the tires lol, but we're probably too heavy (and powerful) at 6s for the track. Going down to 1/8th buggy tires (110mm) doesn't fly on anything less than 6s. And on 6s you can rip the tires apart. Truggy tires are far more functional. Even better are the 175mm tires, which I've been telling people is a BLAST on 3S and the weight you save on the battery offsets the wheels a bit.

Track Report:

• So lucky to have found this private track. It's amazing. We were about 4c today, pretty cold. They just redid the dirt and just got a mylaps system - its being installed right now. I installed my transponder already. We're almost ready for real timed laps! It's 100% sifted topsoil. Loose, soft. Beautiful to crash on. The wheels are constantly being encrusted with damp rich soil so traction is hard to find a few laps in.

Vehicle Damage Report:
Vehicle suffered no damages or breakages despite many crashes. The wheels continue to be the weakpoint - cracking the rims on the inside edge. Didn't suffer any new cracks this time but they are degrading the wheels quickly.

Wheel Report:
Buggy wheels are out on the 1650kv. You need so much more voltage you don't have the top end. I'm back on 140mm truggy wheels for tomorrow. I may try to look for stronger wheels - wish I could find an AKA 1/8th Truggy on Cross Brace Super Soft with firm foams. That would be my dream wheel - but don't seem to be available - anyone know how to get them or something similar?

Changes to vehicle for tomorrows practice:

• Decreasing to 1000CST or 1500 CST front shocks
• Truggy wheels and tires 4.0" - Pro-line HoleShots S3 (next time I'm going M4 something or super soft in this cold ass weather)
• Removing motor fan and aluminum mount - zero heat making out of the motor. Running an 8s motor on 3s in freezing weather and almost never flat out - it can do it sleeping.
• Removed RPM rear mud guards - just don't need them on this soft soil track. They are collecting more dirt and I have a theory that they are creating additional drag instead of letting the soft soil just fly through the rear suspension.
• My rear shocks are now laying down, front as well remain layed down.

More time at the track tomorrow - lets hope for more batteries and a fully operational mylaps system

• View attachment 199573View attachment 199572

You should get a 46t center spur from the infraction/felony or a 40t from robinson racing. With the 46t you can fit I think up to a 29t pinion. I think a 30t will fit with 1 screw. Also, just going to a 46t center will be a speed increase even if you kept same pinion.

I don't race but I do have a talion with the same castle system and I run the 46t spur with 26t pinion. thats 76 mph on 6s and 38 mph on 3s. Compared to the 31 mph your gearing would do on 3s. This is also with stock tires. =D

 

[21STalion]

You should get a 46t center spur from the infraction/felony or a 40t from robinson racing. With the 46t you can fit I think up to a 29t pinion. I think a 30t will fit with 1 screw. Also, just going to a 46t center will be a speed increase even if you kept same pinion.

I don't race but I do have a talion with the same castle system and I run the 46t spur with 26t pinion. thats 76 mph on 6s and 38 mph on 3s. Compared to the 31 mph your gearing would do on 3s. This is also with stock tires. =D

Thank you @Moirae this is very helpful

I'm finding the track very therapeutic. Been dealing with a lot of family issue with my parents aging and doing lap after lap is very relaxing. I'm not racing with anyone but myself really, but there are other cars on the track which is definitely more fun.

With a 40t spur I could probably go to the buggy wheel again if needed. That's a nice option.

Do you happen to have a part number for that 40t spur part? Not sure if I have the right one but the Robson Racing website does not seen to mention Arrmas. Is it a traxxas or other brand part that fits ?

 

[21STalion]

Finding 40t spurs on eBay for Talion but not 100% sure it fits EXB 29mm diff

 

[Moirae]

RRP2640 I'm not sure if it fits exb diff though tbh. I don't remember which one I used to swap with this. It might have been the Typhon tlr 50t spur that I took apart to install 40t gear. I guess since it's claims infraction only it probably won't work with exb diff

 

[21STalion]

Good news! Racing build is NEARLY complete! Soon the rebel scum will know the true power of the dea......Talion-star

What people should know firstly, is almost all of the fancy "heavy" upgrades are on there except the m2c chassis. The only other aluminum hopup I DID NOT put back on are the HR rear hub carriers - I've never broken a rear anyway.

My work this week was focused on two things: Weight & Serviceability.

I modified the front M2C block so I can remove the the front diff cover without removing the front end and other minor adjustments to help me service the car more quickly.

FURTHERMORE I have a plan to move an additional 400gr should I choose to use a race specific ESC/motor - That's right, it's still running the big block 1717 - Yes, that means she will still do 8S! Weeeeeeeee!

Lastly, I encourage ANYONE who has a TALION to share their vehicle weight with me. Especially if you have any lightweight upgrades on there or something.

Ready to Race - Just throw in a battery!

So what do you guys think? Is she still too fat? The motor and ESC and one or two other tricks will drop another 400gr...








This is the modification to the M2C front block and Bumper....Yes, I trimmed the bumper... a bit... Actually a lot. And I consider the bumper to actually be the front M2C solid aluminum block and the Arrma bumper is more just a bumper cover...

I think that arrma bumper is actually the front block of the Typhon, so having the solid block of aluminum and a bumper in front of it is actually a HUGE step up from the protection the Typhon comes with.

Doesn't look like much but the diff case cover is easily removed now like it comes stock. Not sure why M2C doesn't do this already...I guess they have their reasons...

 

[21STalion]

Don't think I can keep the RPM arms, I really want to but they just don't fit. Losing a lot of suspension articulation because some of the dimensions are too far off....

 

[21STalion]

Decided I'm going to split this into two cars.
One will be my 1717 Basher with the 175mm wheels
and the other car with be an ULTRALIGHT custom built with all the cheats for our unofficial track - I have 85% of the parts already
I'll buy a separate dedicated track car for racing after next season if I'm still tracking regularly - looking at Tekno EB or Kyosho 10.... any other suggestions?

 

[JKWoods]

HR Differential Housing and Cover Upgrade

Review: Really like these pieces. Front and back are identical, you just buy two of them. Don't think they are 7075 they might be 6065 - still stronger than the composite plastic pieces and come with an oversized bearing. I somewhat regret purchasing the diff cover pieces because I don't think it really adds much strength in a way that the housing is going to break and it adds quite a bit more weight. I am really glad I upgraded these overall. The whole car sounds and feels different as well. You can sense the less play in the drivetrain. Sounds ping a little tighter. Car rolls a little smoother. It really made a bunch of small differences it had no business making.

Fitment: Excellent. However, many of the screws should be shorter, and some should be longer (and lock nuts used on the far sides). Be very cognizant when installing the screws. Lastly, some of the screws don't fit unless you loosely assemble everything first before tightening them down. Yay fun!

Highly Recommended Upgrade. Racers maybe don't buy the diff covers, they add quite a bit more weight for only a bit more strength. The diff case itself is easily worth the weight.


Part#:
(x2) HR HRAAON12E01 rear differential housing
(x2) HR HRAAON12C01 Aluminum Gearbox Case
Front and back are identical, buy two each of the same

Part Weights:

EXB Diff Housing: 46.9 gr
HR Diff Housing: 49.3 gr

EXB Diff Cover: 12.5 gr
HR Diff Cover: 19.5 gr

Weight increase 18.8 gr and 14 gr of that is diff cover (why?)
Racers find titanium diff covers?


Comparison:


View attachment 182241
View attachment 182243




View attachment 182240View attachment 182242


Extra Photos:
View attachment 182244View attachment 182245View attachment 182246View attachment 182247
View attachment 182248View attachment 182249View attachment 182250

Will the stock cover fit on the HR bulkhead?

 

[21STalion]

Will the stock cover fit on the HR bulkhead?

Yes. I used the stock cover on the hr bulkhead for a few weeks before I got the HR covers - both fit fine. I do kind of prefer it all aluminum, but the cover didn't seem worth the extra weight. But then again, in 1:1 cars people do put stronger covers on their diffs to make them stronger... So I'm pretty conflicted on this one. I'm keeping it.
Final Build

I have completed the full rebuild. I built one as light as possible for racing and decided that I prefer this car in the "Ultra" form - and it's glorious.

So below is the final configuration. I will not be modifying it further, I will instead start building a second car.

Keeping the 175mm Belted Badlands, they are amazing tires and just tear up the soft soil track I run on. The big block 1717 barely gets warm with the 23T pinion. The engine fan is switchable, because it's not required all the time (and it loud).

Here it is fresh off the track

It runs at a healthy 13lbs 1/2lbs
4 if those pounds are the wheels, but the wheels make the car so glorious it's a must have.
The 1717 has enough torque to throw this thing around like a toy. It runs beautifully on 3S, 4S, 6S and 8S.
Although I think the ideal would probably be 5S
This thing is the BATMOBILE on 6s

This is how I'm running it at the track until I build the next car


'

Thank you to everyone who helped me with this build.

 

[21STalion]

This is close to my final setup.

• Castle 1717-1650kv Sensored
• A-arm all the way forward
• Front diff - 3k maximum effect
• Mid diff - 100k maximum effect
• Rear - 3k minimum effect
• Acumen stock - rearward
• 23T Pinion
• Shocks m2c valves/caps, 1000cst front, 2000cst rear
• Droop - well I have it adjusted for just about as much droop as I can get. The front has a little less, just to the point before it starts to bind the tie rod ends at full extension & lock. No binding throughout the complete articulation. Phew, that was an annoying adjustment.
• Shocks layed down both front and rear
• Removed as much toe as possible, its probably -0.5 or so
• Ride height is as close to level as possible
• This is running the 175mm class tires - I call this a MONSTER TRUGGY