Talion Talion - First impressions and thoughts

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soSincerious

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Location
Rhode Island
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
Version 4 is what I believe to own, it has the red center brace. Straight out of the box, I dropped it from about 4 feet. It slapped HARD onto the tile. First thought was holy ____! Not enough pack for jumps, but as I plan on using it for mostly street type stuff, I think I'll benefit from the low-pack setup.

Second, I was impressed with the overall feel, layout and setup of everything as a whole. Given, I pretty much knew what to expect from the research leading up to the purchase, which by the way was almost $100 off new (it was BNIB) from eBay.

Suspension angles out of the box I knew weren't going to be perfect, and in fact they were pretty far off. Front and rear camber, and front toe. I corrected those angles after setting the ride height wayyyy down. I'm at 33mm F and 37mm rear with stock tires and a 502g battery. New battery is 853g so I should see a small drop with that installed.

The drive shafts aren't straight, but likely a common thing that doesn't really affect bearings as much as I think it would.

The pinion grub screw was FAR too tight from the factory. I stripped it out, then when using a high quality torx bit that fit snug and grabbed tight ... that got sheared off inside. It wasn't pretty trying to separate pinion from shaft. I have yet to run the motor but I don't have a feeling the bearing(s) are going to last. I ordered a replacement motor / mount / pinion assembly. I'll heat up the thread lock a bit before trying to remove the next one ...

While waiting for batteries to arrive I went through the front end and tried to eliminate some slop in the suspension arms. I'm a freak about slop, and likely unnecessarily fanatical about it. The front hinge pin brace bore is too large on one side, causing the lower arm to move around a lot more than I would like to see, especially because the other side is drilled fairly well and fits great. The upper arms don't allow for much slop removal that I can see. Nothing that will hold up anyway.

I swapped the spur out on the stock center diff (which I topped off with 10k) with a 46t. Along with a 26t pinion it's right at the edge of the stock mount. I'm looking forward to see what this does on stock tires. Ultimately I have 100mm tires in my future, so I think it will be right in the sweet spot here soon.

Happy blastin' everyone!
 
Nice!.
BTW, why you choose 10k for the center combined with this gearing?.

Also if you plan to go to 100mm tires, you might want to consider the buggy gearing for the diffs, which is 13/43 instead of 10/43, only remember that you need to replace both the input gear and the diff gear since they differ in the teeth cut (spiral/straight)
 
Congrats! Just curious why you bought a replacement motor because of the stripped grub screw? Did you try drilling it out?

Trying to drill out a hardened sheared off torx bit is not easy. Went about trying to cut it off with a cut-off wheel, and then to trying to break it apart with cutting pliers. The result was very ugly, and I'm going to replace it mostly for the cosmetic, but also because I think the bearings inside were irreversibly damaged.
Nice!.
BTW, why you choose 10k for the center combined with this gearing?.

Also if you plan to go to 100mm tires, you might want to consider the buggy gearing for the diffs, which is 13/43 instead of 10/43, only remember that you need to replace both the input gear and the diff gear since they differ in the teeth cut (spiral/straight)


I just topped off the diff with 10k, it was maybe 2/3 full. I think I'll have plenty of gearing with 26/46. If I feel like doing a full tear-down I'll consider the buggy (typhon?) diffs.
 
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