Talion Talion, mission in progress??

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Bigtim29

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Maryland, USA
Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Talion
Hey all, just got a package In the mail yesterday which contains my first upgrades for my arrma talion v4. I will be updating you guys on my talion build every time I get upgrades.

bumper- rpm
Skid plate- rpm
Diff oils- 60k/500k/30k (f/c/r)
Tires- worn down katars ( for street use), backflip lp (off-road use).
Servo- annimos 20kg servo
Electronics- stock blx185 system
Gearing- 13/50
Motor fan- hobbywing fan
Servo Mount- stock
Chassis- stock
Chassis braces- stock

Future upgrades:

CHASSIS BRACES- I plan on getting the EXB talion chassis braces, but the measurements seem shorter than what the hot racing ones are, would the EXB chassis braces fit the stock chassis and Ackerman plate?

CHASSIS- I plan on getting the new talion EXB chassis as well. Would go m2c but I’d like to keep the weight down, I also don’t have space to send as high as rc dude and duperbash.


ELECTRONICS- plan on getting the hobbywing max 6 Esc and hobby star 1730kv motor with an 18t pinion. Will that be a good all around gear combo? Will the 1480kv hobbystar put to much stress on the 6s driveline and diffs?
 

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Got Hot Racing front and rear chassis braces installed. Also got the arrma aluminum diff case for my center diff which leaked constantly with the stock plastic cup. Also got axial M3x30mm screws for my servo Mount, and fast eddy bearing kit. With the new bearings, it’s a night and day difference in smoothness. Steering is a lot better with the long screws for the servo mount and bearing in the steering rack.
 

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That is a nice almost no cost upgrade, talion is shaping up for sure!
Sure is. Once my chassis takes a dump and bends, I’ll probably order the Exb chassis and run the t2t brace. I don’t see a need for an m2c or jbi chassis since I don't bash insanely hard, and the exb one is lighter ?.
Shock towers willl probably remain stock unless they bend. I’m very happy with the performance of this rig currently.
 
Got the yeah racing dual fan set up now. Much better than the hobbywing heat sink and fan.
 

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What is the difference between the two? I’m in the market for one and was going to get the power hobby one.
 
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You have the right idea about keeping the weight down. That's what makes a Talion a Talion. You're 13/50 hearing is really, really low though. Is that the stock pinion? I'd go with at least a 16t on the stock electronics and 6S.

I don't really care for the HR braces. You will eventually snap the screw off that goes to the front top plate and most likely the brace will be ruined. I recommend M2C there. Are you sure there is an EXB chassis for the Talion? It's a different layout than the Kraton.

As far as the Hobbystar 1730kv motor (4092) that's what I run with a Max6 and a 20t pinion. It's insane!
 
What is the difference between the two? I’m in the market for one and was going to get the power hobby one.
Don’t get the hobbywing, it’s big and bulky and doesn’t provide as much airflow, it’s also meant for larger motors. The yeah racing one has a dual fan set up and is snug to the motor.


You have the right idea about keeping the weight down. That's what makes a Talion a Talion. You're 13/50 hearing is really, really low though. Is that the stock pinion? I'd go with at least a 16t on the stock electronics and 6S.

I don't really care for the HR braces. You will eventually snap the screw off that goes to the front top plate and most likely the brace will be ruined. I recommend M2C there. Are you sure there is an EXB chassis for the Talion? It's a different layout than the Kraton.

As far as the Hobbystar 1730kv motor (4092) that's what I run with a Max6 and a 20t pinion. It's insane!
HR braces seem fine for what I do, nothing too huge. Still running 13/50 gearing, would like to move that up soon, just don’t want to come near frying the stock electronics. I am almost certain there is a talion exb chassis, if I find the part number I will post it here, it had the keyed out spot for the talion chassis braces. How does your max6 and 4092 set up in the talion affect the overall handling of the vehicle?
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA320571

Talion exb chassis.
 
Don’t get the hobbywing, it’s big and bulky and doesn’t provide as much airflow, it’s also meant for larger motors. The yeah racing one has a dual fan set up and is snug to the motor.



HR braces seem fine for what I do, nothing too huge. Still running 13/50 gearing, would like to move that up soon, just don’t want to come near frying the stock electronics. I am almost certain there is a talion exb chassis, if I find the part number I will post it here, it had the keyed out spot for the talion chassis braces. How does your max6 and 4092 set up in the talion affect the overall handling of the vehicle?
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA320571

Talion exb chassis.
My Talion handles great. It's almost as good as my Typhon 6S. It jumps so well and is very well balanced. I have the M2C chassis on it.

That great about the EXB chassis. Good find.
 
Found a super easy way to Secure the motor and esc wires. Drilled a hole through the wire holder and put a screw and nut through .
 

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Installed an arrma 17t pinion??. Ready to go to the moon.
 

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Went to ace hardware this morning and got a 3.99mm still bit and a tap set. Drilled out the front of my hot racing front chassis brace and tried tapping it with an m4 tap and it barely made any threads so I stuck a m4 screw through the bottom and secured it with an m4 nut on the top. Drilled a hole through the chassis so I could tighten the m4 screw.

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My stock talion chassis is still holding up very well. No bends what so ever. I’ve had some nasty landings from double backflips or front flips, nose dives, and even landed on some big rocks and this stock chassis seems bullet proof with aluminum chassis braces. I think a big factor in this is the keyed out spots for the chassis braces to sit into the chassis, they should do this for the other models as well.
 
Went to ace hardware this morning and got a 3.99mm still bit and a tap set. Drilled out the front of my hot racing front chassis brace and tried tapping it with an m4 tap and it barely made any threads so I stuck a m4 screw through the bottom and secured it with an m4 nut on the top. Drilled a hole through the chassis so I could tighten the m4 screw.
Common mistake to make. The '4mm' is the diameter of the receiving nut. The screw itself is slightly smaller. As you found out, you need to take the threads' into account. Whenever you drill for a tap set, refer to the available tables.
An M4 would require a 3.2-3.3mm drill.
Tables are your friend and if you can't find the exact drill size it's 'as close as possible'. Softer material is more forgiving, for steel you would have to be fairly spot on.
Similar tables available for 'US Standard screws'.

FYI, you could go to an M5 screw.
drill.png
 
Common mistake to make. The '4mm' is the diameter of the receiving nut. The screw itself is slightly smaller. As you found out, you need to take the threads' into account. Whenever you drill for a tap set, refer to the available tables.
An M4 would require a 3.2-3.3mm drill.
Tables are your friend and if you can't find the exact drill size it's 'as close as possible'. Softer material is more forgiving, for steel you would have to be fairly spot on.
Similar tables available for 'US Standard screws'.

FYI, you could go to an M5 screw.
View attachment 103630
Yeah when I went back to my mechanical engineering class , I picked up my drill tap chart and saw that I needed a 3.30mm drill bit. So there’s pretty much no threads in the front of my front hr chassis brace, but I have a long enough m4 screw to go through the Ackerman plate and chassis brace and put a nut on top and really tightened it down.
 
Yeah when I went back to my mechanical engineering class , I picked up my drill tap chart and saw that I needed a 3.30mm drill bit. So there’s pretty much no threads in the front of my front hr chassis brace, but I have a long enough m4 screw to go through the Ackerman plate and chassis brace and put a nut on top and really tightened it down.
Hey bud, nice build! I noticed I think your referring to the top plate when you say Ackerman plate... the Ackerman plate is the little metal piece that goes in the steering. It’s what sits in the middle and your turnbuckles attach to. ??
 
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