Talion Talion or Kraton?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
lol Ed

If your gonna jump it and go off road get the Kraton, if you want to go fast flat go talion.

they are both hella fast you cant lose....
 
Think about the RC cars, what's the first one that comes to mind ?
If it's the E-Revo 2.0 get it, if it's the Kraton get that and if it's the Talion get that.
 
So i was going to buy the e revo 2.0. But it breaks alot. So What car should i replace the e revo 2.0 with? The talion or kraton? I only have the choice between talion and kraton.

Sorry for the ginormous post.

They all break. It just depends on how you drive them. If you land on your wheels all the time and don't send it 20-30 feet through the air at a skate park, it should last quite some time. If you crash a lot, odds are you are more likely to break something. The bigger you go the more expensive parts become. However, out of the box Arrmas are quite a bit more durable than some other brands. I am not saying that they don't or won't have issues, they all do and they all will.

Here is a list of things that I see the most issues with with the Arrma V3 1/8 scales.
  • Steering servo - is rather weak and tend to either burn up or strip out. Simplest fix is a better servo.
  • Servo mount - the stock servo mount has a lot of flex in it, the easiest and cheapest way to remove this flex is to take all of the screws out of the mount and run screws all the way through the mount from the bottom then secure with a locknut on top. GKA, Voltage Hobbies, Alza Racing and Hot Racing all make aluminum upgrades.
  • Chassis braces - break rather quickly, especially the rear. These are far too weak to support the weight of the vehicle in big air landings. Vas from Aussie Rc Playground broke his front on his V3 Talion on it's maiden run. Aluminum upgrades are available from GKA, Voltage Hobbies, Alza Racing and Hot Racing, DO NOT BUY GPM.
  • Chassis - is made of 6065 T6 aluminum that is 3mm thick and stamped. The chassis is too weak out of the box to survive big air landings, this is especially evident in the Kraton, because it does not have enough support on the top, see above for something to help with this. To fully fix this there are a few options not really in any particular order. First make a tower to tower brace(literally go on Youtube and search "arrma tower to tower brace" it will be the first video to show up). Second is the Markhor carbon fiber top plate, you must use the stock chassis braces with this. Third is the Alza Racing 5mm 7075 T6 aluminum top plate, this eliminates the chassis braces completely, however you have to modify the bulkhead on all V3 models, why they released this in September as only fitting V1 and V2 models is beyond me(I don't even have v2 bulkheads anymore.) Forth, and the most expensive, is the Just Bash It RC aluminum chassis, this guy is on Facebook just search "Just Bash It RC". https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/good-video-showing-the-kraton’s-biggest-weak-spot.8096/
  • Wing mount - these seem to fail within the first few packs, just a design flaw the material is too thin and too narrow to survive tail landings. There are many options to fix this including making supports out of Traxxas Tmaxx turnbuckles, boil the wing mount, soaking the wing mount in wd40(someone on here said they were going to test if wd40 or silicone work better), boiling the wing mount and buying an aftermarket one. The Rpm wing mount breaks easier than the stock one from my experience, I'm currently on my 4th one that has been boiled and soaked in wd40. The T-Bone Racing wing mount breaks easier than the stock one as well(they are working on a v2 mount with extra support on the sides. The Hot Racing one is made out of aluminum, supposedly they break your bulkhead, but I asked on here and on the Arrma Army Facebook group and could not find anyone having broken a bulkhead directly because of this, but this is also the most expensive on the list as well.
  • Bearings - Arrma uses metal shielded bearings in all of their rcs, out of the box the steering rack in the 1/8 scale has bushings, and metal shielded bearings to not like being used outside............... I know right? Fast Eddy makes a great set for the Arrma vehicles and he even included the bearings to replace the bushings in the steering rack.
These are things that tend to get damaged or wear out after having been used for a while.
  • Shock towers - over time these can and will bend. Aluminum upgrades available from Voltage Hobbies, Alza Racing and Hot Racing.
  • Hinge pin retainers - over time these just wear out or break. As far as I know Voltage Hobbies, Markhor and Alza Racing are the only ones who make these, again DO NOT BUY GPM.
  • Shock eyelets - again they either wear out or break. The Tekno rod ends seem to be a good upgrade, I have not broken a single one in almost a year. You need these TKR6140B and these TKR5049A.
  • A Arms - again they wear out over time or break. Rpm makes a arms.
Take this as more of a things to look out for not as a list of required things to do right out of the box. Take it out of the box, give it a good look over, check for loose/missing screws, check your gear mesh, make sure your tires are tightened down and glued properly, ensure your radio works, set the fail safe, set your steering trims, send it then replace things as they break or wear out.
 
Last edited:
I break it down like this, the Talion is great for speed and track bashing. The Outcast is great for doing stunts. The Kraton is a little bit of both. Not saying that the Talion won't do backflips they are just easier with the Kraton.


Agreed, I did a LOT of research, as that is one of my jobs...and I came up with the KRATON weighing pros-and-cons of everything...I was very surprised how crazy fast and amazing it is, and it is really nimble on the street...just had it out for my first 2 minutes today.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top