Talion Rebuild

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Talion
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Talion after the esc fire. Rebuilt using some ideas of others and trying out some new things I had ideas for.

Specs so far:
Castle extreme esc(mamba monster with cap pack). Bolted 2 esc mounts together with metal spacers in between to raise esc. Had to do this so I could mount the esc sideways above center chassis brace/driveline.
Castle 2200kv motor
15t pinion
Dual fan on motor(not wired yet)
XO-1 chassis brace used as tower to tower brace. The way I had to mount the esc I couldn't fit the square tube brace others use. Will probably change to the square tube or carbon tube once I get a new combo.
Diffs all shimmed with drillbit mod and Thomas's external diff shim front/rear.
Savox 1268 servo
Associated Rival front bumper modified to fit.
Tekno Orange springs front/back with inner tube shock covers(just like the look and doesn't interfere with performance)
Proline raptor body for the yeti. Used heat gun and screwdriver handle to widen the rear a bit. Otherwise would have had to cut more from bodys rear, over shock area.
Modded wing to fit body
Roof rack with lightbar on body.
4 Red led's in rear of body
2 white leds in bumper
For a total (6 white + 4 Red) 10 lights
Boom racing bearings all around, decided to run these because I haven't seen anyone else try them. So far not happy. They come with enough bearings to do 1 diff, 2 hubs and diff housings(so need 3 kits for almost complete bearing replacement). And the kits have two incredibly small bearings that look like they don't fit anywhere and Aistees cannot tell me where they are supposed to go. Next test, Boca Bearings.
Right now has WC1028 tire/wheel combo on it. Also have Duratrax Posse truggy set and a set of badlands on the way
Granite BLX wheelie bar modified to fit

Planned changes :
New combo, right now leaning towards Hobbywing Max8 or Max6 and leopard 4082 1600kv
More traditional tower to tower brace
Bearings to replace steering rack bushings on the way
Have to wire up motor fans to receiver box
Make up my mind to run lights off extra 2-3s Lipo or 9v battery. Then either buy 9v battery housing or Lipo voltage alarm and wire the lights up
make new mud guards(cut up the last ones to mount lights in bumper)
Still thinking about trying out a clear Cen Colussus shell
More that I probably can't remember

Pics in next post........
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I like. Where u get the tower brace at or do i have to make it myself
Its a chassis brace from the XO-1 with some brackets that I found at the hardware store that fit perfect. Others use a piece of aluminum square tubing you can pick at alot of hardware stores(See @Thomas post in the kraton section). Seen one recently that used carbon cylinder tubing you can buy online or might be able to find at a hobby shop that deals with Drones(its used to make drone frames)
Sounds like a nice rebuild. I'm particularly interested how you end up powering the led's; I'm currently debating wiring some in for better night driving. Are you running all of them through a controller as well?
One update, wc1028tire/wheel combo are are no good. Ran it to test out and when I was breaking it down realized the rear wheels were rubbing the turnbuckle. Now I'm using the duratrax posse's until I get my badlands(should never have sold the trenchers)
Sounds like a nice rebuild. I'm particularly interested how you end up powering the led's; I'm currently debating wiring some in for better night driving. Are you running all of them through a controller as well?
I think I'm going to build a battery tray for a small 3s battery to mount it like in this pic. Just ordered a Lipo voltage alarm, some battery straps and connectors.
@BigSplit, nice work. Isn't a 3S battery a bit overkill for the LED's though? I know with my quads, I just soldered them into the main power supply (through a controller) and it had a fairly minimal effect on flight time.
I hooked them up to the 7.2v bec and they weren't very bright. Then looked up the specs, they are 12v leds
Got it. Makes sense to run a separate battery then, especially if you're running 6S to power the Talion - that would severely shorten the lifetime of the LED's, but it would probably light up your neighborhood.
Also sprayed the outside of the body with a matte/flat clear so it isn't so shiny and looks more like the old beat up look I was going for. Kind of hard to capture in an image.

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Ilke i jsut sprayed a pearl over my paint job but it doesn't show up i. Pic either
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Yeah I wish I had a better camera

Kind of crappy pics, but these suckers are bright. All wired up together, soldered and heat shrinked. Now just waiting on new connectors, Lipo alarm and battery straps to get here.
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New powerplant to test in the beast; Castle 1800kv bigblock. Have a 46t spur on the way and have a range of pinions from 16t to 25t to test.

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Also had to replace the rear diff case and main rear diff spiral gear. Heard a loud clicking in a test run. Looked it over and realized I stripped out one of the screws in the diff case and it was sliding out just enough to allow diff movement and I think it caused a little damage to the gear
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Just took her out for the native spin with the castle 1800kv And holy poop this is a torquie little beast. With the 25t pinion and 46t spur its hard to handle, I love it.

Had the Talion out today and decided to stop by my favorite road for speed runs. Only had 4s with me and I'm suprised by how close the top speed is to what the RC Calculator predicted. If 6s is anything close to the calculator predictions I'm scared to try a full speed run. Loving this Castle 1800kv

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