Talion Talion shock upgrade

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

asphaltlou

Premium Member!
Premium Member
Messages
89
Reaction score
86
Location
NE Ohio
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
  2. Typhon 6s
  3. Voltage
Hello Arrma brothers and sisters,
I was wondering about shock upgrade for my Talion. I've added aluminum chassis, gear cases and shock towers. Which has added quite abit of weight. I really don't mind, but I'm looking to some beefier shocks. I am using the stockers with 2000cst shock oil and orange techno shock springs on all four corners, and I have used different shock pistons and use aluminum shock rod ends as well. I was wondering if there is a beefier upgrade that will handle the weight easier? Thanks in advanced!!!!
 
What version Talion do you have V1/V2 or V3/V4?
The 2000cst silicone makes me think v3 or v4 but the softer Tekno orange springs lean towards the v1/v2 Talion era of upgrades
 
I have a v3 I put the orange teckno springs on it.
 
I’d put the stiffer stock springs back on it. The Tekno springs were only an upgrade back before Arrma released the v3 shocks which have noticeably more spring rate than the Tekno Orange springs.

Stock Talion V3/v4 spring rates are
9.7lb/in front
5.4lb/in rear

Tekno Orange Springs (80mm front / 90mm rear) part#s TKR6093 & TKR6083
6.11lb/in front
4.8lb/in rear
 
The question is what do you want to achieve? That it handles better high jumps or reduce bounce backs?
If so try the shock caps and the pistons with o-rings from m2c racing. The car handles way better high jumps and I am still running the standard springs and 2000cst oil.

https://m2cracing.net/arrma/383-m2c-3075-arrma-16-mm-zrs-shock-caps-and-oring-shock-pistons.html
I’ve been on the fence about getting these and if I’d be able to see much of a change over the stock pistons. How do they act on the compression side?
 
I'm trying to compensate for weight. I've added a bunch of aluminum and it just bottoms way to easy. Regardless what springs I put on or oil. I have tried the pistons and shock caps from M2C on my stock typon. And I see NO difference in handling or bounce back. I know everything has its limits, launching 30+ feet in the air I know there ain't much to help bounce back or hard chassis slaps. I'm sure it will work for someone else. I have found "big bore" shocks on ebay with 4.5mm shock shafts. I might give those a try. I want to make use of the shock travel thats there instead of already being half way through the stroke.
 
I'm trying to compensate for weight. I've added a bunch of aluminum and it just bottoms way to easy. Regardless what springs I put on or oil. I have tried the pistons and shock caps from M2C on my stock typon. And I see NO difference in handling or bounce back. I know everything has its limits, launching 30+ feet in the air I know there ain't much to help bounce back or hard chassis slaps. I'm sure it will work for someone else. I have found "big bore" shocks on ebay with 4.5mm shock shafts. I might give those a try. I want to make use of the shock travel thats there instead of already being half way through the stroke.
No stay away from eBay shocks, especially the big bore silver ones, they do not use a bladder so bleeding them and setting them properly is a giant pain in the ass, the rod ends are just awful and they leak worse than the stock shocks on my 3s Typhon.

And are you trying to fight sag or bottom out? You want the truck to bottom out on jumps, the chassis is supposed to absorb the big jumps so you don't snap shock rod ends or the screws holding in the top of the shocks.
 
I think I understand why you think bigger shocks are necessary, but I still do not get how you verify that the stock ones don't do their job. That's why I asked what you want to achive and implied what the actual issue is.
I also replaced a lot of parts already which increased the weight. Maybe I was lucky but my stock shock setup with the m2c caps and pistons and 2000cst oil is perfectly fine.
I mean the droop screw setup is also very important for high jumps and the bottom out of the chassis. If these are not set properly the shocks will not work properly.
 
No stay away from eBay shocks, especially the big bore silver ones, they do not use a bladder so bleeding them and setting them properly is a giant pain in the ass, the rod ends are just awful and they leak worse than the stock shocks on my 3s Typhon.

And are you trying to fight sag or bottom out? You want the truck to bottom out on jumps, the chassis is supposed to absorb the big jumps so you don't snap shock rod ends or the screws holding in the top of the shocks.
I'm trying to fight sag and bottoming. Even when I had my Talion stock I was breaking shock rod ends, a-arms and making tacos out of the chassis. I admit I should probably back off alittle when bashing.
I actually use Kraton shocks on my Truggified and that setup works great, that RC is my work horse. I do realize everything has a break point.
I think I understand why you think bigger shocks are necessary, but I still do not get how you verify that the stock ones don't do their job. That's why I asked what you want to achive and implied what the actual issue is.
I also replaced a lot of parts already which increased the weight. Maybe I was lucky but my stock shock setup with the m2c caps and pistons and 2000cst oil is perfectly fine.
I mean the droop screw setup is also very important for high jumps and the bottom out of the chassis. If these are not set properly the shocks will not work properly.
I'm trying to fight sagging and bottoming I know it's suppose bottom out and the chassis take the hit. I have M2C droop screws on all of my Arrmas. And they are set so shock has to be compressed alittle to be installed.
 
Last edited:
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top