Talion Talion v4 day 0

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Two things about the tekno ends though for the talion v4: they are really difficult to get threaded on initially - like I'm quite strong and it was literally physically difficult lmao.

I forgot about that. I used a tap in my drill to make the threads about half way in before putting them on.
 
I couldn't find my tap so it was all brute Force to get them to start threading.

As a side note- I was curious what would happen if I put my old Nero springs on the Talion. It's actually kinda sweet. Too stiff for track. But for messing around it works well. Chassis can still hit on jumps so shouldn't cause any issues besides lower traction when bashing.
 
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ran great at the local track today. Took my kid and his buddy with their cars and ran into a Kraton and a Typhon. Was some fun bash racing! The diff weights were great, so I think I'll stick with those a while. The tekno rod ends were also doing their job like champs so +1 for those definitely.
 
Alright setup update time.

I've been quite happy with the diff setup: front and rear diff stock diff cup but both shimmed - center diff hot racing aluminum diff cup (because freaking rocks) shimmed. Diff fluids team associated 30-200-10k cst.

I have also been playing around with the shocks. Ever since putting on the aforementioned tekno rod ends, I've been chasing down my personal preference for shock setup since the rod ends changed the ride height by removing the 6mm stock spacer that's on the Talion.

For fun I put on my old Nero (rip?) springs for some jumps which was super fun but they're too stiff for the cars weight and aren't good for anything besides big air. Dang you can send it high with them though.

What ended up being exactly what I wanted was the tekno orange tkr6083 90mm springs in the rear, and then putting the stock rear springs in the front. I tried the tekno orange tkr8767 in the front but they're too weak.

This setup feels very balanced and with the longer springs used in both f/r you can get a nice ride height with around 20% sag - compensating for the rod end change. I also swapped to team associated 1350cst shock fluid.

This should make a great capable setup for almost anything. The rear shock adjuster is basically right in the middle and the front is around 3/4 to the bottom. Lots of adjustability left and the suspension is working well.
 
Esc fan broke so I bought a pack of 35*35*10 computer fans on Amazon 5 for $12. Based off the advertised speed they're just shy of 2000kv so you get about 10k rpm at 5v. Seems to blow the same amount of air as the arrma fan and much quieter so probably better blade foil.

Also put on the hot racing motor fan that's rated for 11.1v but only feeding it 7.5 from my bec. It's a loud 40*40 fan and you can feel a lot of air moving. Never had motor temp issues (stock gearing) but I don't take any breaks through a 5000mah pack so figured it will help.

Next time at the track I'll report esc and motor temps after 1 full pack. Based on messing around today I expect esc to stay around 120 and motor to be around 130 after ~25 minutes of track.
 
Esc fan broke so I bought a pack of 35*35*10 computer fans on Amazon 5 for $12. Based off the advertised speed they're just shy of 2000kv so you get about 10k rpm at 5v. Seems to blow the same amount of air as the arrma fan and much quieter so probably better blade foil.

Also put on the hot racing motor fan that's rated for 11.1v but only feeding it 7.5 from my bec. It's a loud 40*40 fan and you can feel a lot of air moving. Never had motor temp issues (stock gearing) but I don't take any breaks through a 5000mah pack so figured it will help.

Next time at the track I'll report esc and motor temps after 1 full pack. Based on messing around today I expect esc to stay around 120 and motor to be around 130 after ~25 minutes of track.
When you say the fan broke, do you mean it stopped working or was physically damaged? I've had two fans stop, but it was just one wire separating near the motor. Quick solder and back up and running. Took all of three minutes to fix.
 
I went to a track and didn't spray the ground down so a bunch of little pebbles got in the fan. Noticed while switching batteries that there was one blade left and it's motor was burned out. Going to wrap it in a piece of metal screen door repair patch.
 
I went to a track and didn't spray the ground down so a bunch of little pebbles got in the fan. Noticed while switching batteries that there was one blade left and it's motor was burned out. Going to wrap it in a piece of metal screen door repair patch.
Yeah hopefully V5 Arrma BLX ESCs will come with a finer mesh over the fan. The first thing to break on mine was the fan. I too replaced with an Amazon fan, and it has been fine.
 
You almost ate that Tekno for lunch ?
Haha that's the one sketchy part of driving an Arrma in a community track - smaller cars you'll destroy if you crash into each other. At least there weren't a bunch of 1/10 and 1/16 there this weekend like is common.
 
Managed a few laps before I broke off my GoPro. Good times with the Talion bashing the track.
That was a surprisingly good video and some really nice handling of the Talion?. Mashing the Tekno would've been icing on the cake. How is the camera mounted and which GoPro are you using? Sorry if you've mentioned it already but I'm too lazy to search?
 
That was a surprisingly good video and some really nice handling of the Talion?. Mashing the Tekno would've been icing on the cake. How is the camera mounted and which GoPro are you using? Sorry if you've mentioned it already but I'm too lazy to search?
Hey thanks! Hopefully next time I'll get a good run without a broken rear shock and it'll be a lot less bumpy.
The Talion handles nicely, admittedly with a little bit of throttle muscling around the corners. I think it's relatively common for people to use too thick diff oil front and rear and that really makes cornering a lot more cumbersome. I use 10k fr and 200k center now and really like that setup.
I used a brain3d 3d printed GoPro mount for my hero 5 session and I cut off the bottom elevation block, CA glued a little slice for a slight angle to the bottom, and bolted it to the wing. Looks good and should last a long time. The mount itself looks like this, but with that bottom part cut off.
dsc_2004_2.jpg
 
Hey thanks! Hopefully next time I'll get a good run without a broken rear shock and it'll be a lot less bumpy.
The Talion handles nicely, admittedly with a little bit of throttle muscling around the corners. I think it's relatively common for people to use too thick diff oil front and rear and that really makes cornering a lot more cumbersome. I use 10k fr and 200k center now and really like that setup.
I used a brain3d 3d printed GoPro mount for my hero 5 session and I cut off the bottom elevation block, CA glued a little slice for a slight angle to the bottom, and bolted it to the wing. Looks good and should last a long time. The mount itself looks like this, but with that bottom part cut off. View attachment 49041
Why not just modify it before you print it ??
 
Hey thanks! Hopefully next time I'll get a good run without a broken rear shock and it'll be a lot less bumpy.
The Talion handles nicely, admittedly with a little bit of throttle muscling around the corners. I think it's relatively common for people to use too thick diff oil front and rear and that really makes cornering a lot more cumbersome. I use 10k fr and 200k center now and really like that setup.
I used a brain3d 3d printed GoPro mount for my hero 5 session and I cut off the bottom elevation block, CA glued a little slice for a slight angle to the bottom, and bolted it to the wing. Looks good and should last a long time. The mount itself looks like this, but with that bottom part cut off. View attachment 49041


Just ordered one of these.

I REALLY want to strap my GoPro to my Senton and go blasting around the neighborhood!
 
That would be fun. Will probably be a little trickier to get one on a senton. The Talion rear wing is way beefier. Might need to use a plate under the shell and use strong magnets to hold it on or something.
 
That would be fun. Will probably be a little trickier to get one on a senton. The Talion rear wing is way beefier. Might need to use a plate under the shell and use strong magnets to hold it on or something.


I was thinking of making a plate/bar that runs between to body mounts.

I'll see what I can come up with. After the body that came with the car gets chewed up, I might make it into a "convertible", and mount the camera in the cut out area.
 
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