Silliker269
Fairly New Member
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Shes a bit of a porker lolThanks for the responses guys.
Does anyone have a RTR weight for this one yet ? Im thinking about 8.5 lbs ?
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Shes a bit of a porker lolThanks for the responses guys.
Does anyone have a RTR weight for this one yet ? Im thinking about 8.5 lbs ?
Thanks for the responses guys.
Does anyone have a RTR weight for this one yet ? Im thinking about 8.5 lbs ?
WEIGHT (ROLLING CHASSIS) | 2.86kg / 6lbs 5oz |
I don’t know I feel even if your a newer driver, you will wheel a dialed in kit buggy with even th box setup better then a rtr buggy on the track. They drive better. Jump better. Better manners
I'm using the factory settings on my ET48.3 and that feels plenty dialed in for me, it handles so much better than my Kraton does. Hell my D8T with the factory setup also handles better than my Kraton. The ET48.3 and D8T both drive like they are on rails, the Kraton is a lot looser feeling and you have to try a lot harder to keep it going where you want."Dialed in" is the key phrase here. ANY Dialed in car will drive better than a box setup. The question is, how will a new driver dial in their car? The easiest way is to have the same chassis as the fast friendly guy and pick his brain for how to tune your car. But, none of the fast guys will be driving a 7 year old EB48.2 or a "basher" TLRT Typhon. So Mr new guy has to learn how to drive and tune at the same time.
If you just want to race for fun, 2-4 times a year, or just go track-bashing, then either chassis will be fine. If you want to get serious about racing, then go visit the track on race day, walk the pits, talk to racers, talk to the track owner, talk to the LHS, and buy something that is both common at your track, and supported at your LHS.
I'm using the factory settings on my ET48.3 and that feels plenty dialed in for me, it handles so much better than my Kraton does. Hell my D8T with the factory setup also handles better than my Kraton. The ET48.3 and D8T both drive like they are on rails, the Kraton is a lot looser feeling and you have to try a lot harder to keep it going where you want.
^ LOL ...After getting both buggies here I decided to keep the Tekno, the quality seems so good and its noticeably lighter. I could upgrade to the 48.3 and still have a couple hundred $$ left over. The Typhon is nice rig for the price but I think it would be hard to be competitive at a decent level being almost 2 lbs heavier. It might be a bit more stable on the fast outdoor tracks but it would be hard to change direction in the tighter sections. Parts support is still solid on the Tekno and I can use the setup sheets on their website. I love playing with setup so I don't think that will be an issue. Would you guys run 4s 1900kv , 5s 1700kv or 6s on 1400kv ? Large outdoor track ... Calgary Alberta , RC Gears ... Cheers !
I hear you. But I think you misunderstood what I meant by the above. I run a lot of 1/8 buggy in summer, nothing competitive to the extreme but a lot of guys have good new equipment. I just run a MP9. I was saying a box setup like Tekno offers the setup sheets and setups online for even a newb is easy to follow, will drive a lot better then rtr and be dialed in also for most conditions and drivers of any experience. They have setups for short or long tracks, hard pack or loose etc."Dialed in" is the key phrase here. ANY Dialed in car will drive better than a box setup. The question is, how will a new driver dial in their car? The easiest way is to have the same chassis as the fast friendly guy and pick his brain for how to tune your car. But, none of the fast guys will be driving a 7 year old EB48.2 or a "basher" TLRT Typhon. So Mr new guy has to learn how to drive and tune at the same time.
If you just want to race for fun, 2-4 times a year, or just go track-bashing, then either chassis will be fine. If you want to get serious about racing, then go visit the track on race day, walk the pits, talk to racers, talk to the track owner, talk to the LHS, and buy something that is both common at your track, and supported at your LHS.
That’s what I meant is that out the box, a kit build buggy even an older EB48.2 will have a decent stock box setup. They don’t let you build them and not offer some kind of setup on all the tuning abilityI'm using the factory settings on my ET48.3 and that feels plenty dialed in for me, it handles so much better than my Kraton does. Hell my D8T with the factory setup also handles better than my Kraton. The ET48.3 and D8T both drive like they are on rails, the Kraton is a lot looser feeling and you have to try a lot harder to keep it going where you want.
Cool Calgary, I’m in Edmonton! Good choice on the Tekno you won’t be disappointed in it. Yes that’s what I was getting at before, the setup sheets are easy to follow, they have setups for short tight tracks or wide open tracks and everything I’m between. You will literally get a dialed in car following those sheets or for the most part. I’m no pro, but I run a 2200kv on 4S and it’s fast. If you go 1900kv and 4S will be great for a bigger track. You can play with the pinions a bit to find the sweet spot. If it’s for fun, you can always run 6S and gear down a bit on the same 1900 from what you would run on 4S gearing. 6S in a 1/8 buggy makes it difficult to handle. I find 4S in the Tekno is the sweet spot. You’ll be fast and it wI’ll handle and put the power down^ LOL ...After getting both buggies here I decided to keep the Tekno, the quality seems so good and its noticeably lighter. I could upgrade to the 48.3 and still have a couple hundred $$ left over. The Typhon is nice rig for the price but I think it would be hard to be competitive at a decent level being almost 2 lbs heavier. It might be a bit more stable on the fast outdoor tracks but it would be hard to change direction in the tighter sections. Parts support is still solid on the Tekno and I can use the setup sheets on their website. I love playing with setup so I don't think that will be an issue. Would you guys run 4s 1900kv , 5s 1700kv or 6s on 1400kv ? Large outdoor track ... Calgary Alberta , RC Gears ... Cheers !
I said before I'll say it again, car (if decent) is really not that important. it's all driver. Just had a race yesterday and managed to finish 2nd place with the TTLR, 1st was a kid (Harel Sanderov) which is a wizard. there were Associated cars, Xray, mugen, Kyosho, team magic.. at the end it's the driver. I truly believe the kid would have still got 1st place on a 3s Typhon even, he is that good.
I could have been better, I couldn't have been much more precise, the car pushed on slow turns, was it the car fault? no, it was me. I should have moved to a softer front springs, or lower the droop at the front, or raise the ride height a bit, there wasn't enough traction. but I didn't do these, so I'm to fault, not the car.
Here's me following him a bit until he got away.. (I mistakenly started before the bell.. so I let him pass at the start.. like he wouldn't pass me anyway
https://israelileague.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=3467726
I know this, there's a guy on Youtube who has videos of his Traxxas Bandit winning in the indoor offraod 17.5 mains.I said before I'll say it again, car (if decent) is really not that important. it's all driver. Just had a race yesterday and managed to finish 2nd place with the TTLR, 1st was a kid (Harel Sanderov) which is a wizard. there were Associated cars, Xray, mugen, Kyosho, team magic.. at the end it's the driver. I truly believe the kid would have still got 1st place on a 3s Typhon even, he is that good.
I could have been better, I couldn't have been much more precise, the car pushed on slow turns, was it the car fault? no, it was me. I should have moved to a softer front springs, or lower the droop at the front, or raise the ride height a bit, there wasn't enough traction. but I didn't do these, so I'm to fault, not the car.
Here's me following him a bit until he got away.. (I mistakenly started before the bell.. so I let him pass at the start.. like he wouldn't pass me anyway
https://israelileague.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=3467726
You right i forgot to mention that, it was recorded at 120fps and played at 60.Nice camera work! What camera is that?
It took me a couple of turns before I realized you recorded at half speed, I was like, something is wrong here... the hangtime on these jumps is unbelievable!
I love mine, it is a bit heavy stock though, some part changes and it's much better.I'm thinking of getting a TLRT just to screw around with, finally got around to trying 1/8 on the track, and it's so much fun!
indeed! crazy what a camera the size of my thumb can do.this camera is insane
The stability is what's insane, good job and congrats to second placeThe quality is crazy! every frame is so clear.
That’s is a pretty nice looking track you have there very cool! I’d like to try that out. Some big air on the track too. Good idea with the wooden jumps built like that I may bring that idea up to our local this spring.I said before I'll say it again, car (if decent) is really not that important. it's all driver. Just had a race yesterday and managed to finish 2nd place with the TTLR, 1st was a kid (Harel Sanderov) which is a wizard. there were Associated cars, Xray, mugen, Kyosho, team magic.. at the end it's the driver. I truly believe the kid would have still got 1st place on a 3s Typhon even, he is that good.
I could have been better, I couldn't have been much more precise, the car pushed on slow turns, was it the car fault? no, it was me. I should have moved to a softer front springs, or lower the droop at the front, or raise the ride height a bit, there wasn't enough traction. but I didn't do these, so I'm to fault, not the car.
Here's me following him a bit until he got away.. (I mistakenly started before the bell.. so I let him pass at the start.. like he wouldn't pass me anyway
https://israelileague.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=3467726
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