Kraton Tekin ESC & motor

[THC]

Hey guys
Looking at the Tekin RX8 esc & T8 gen 3 motor for my K6S. Any one out there have experience or opinions on Tekin. Could use suggestions on motor kv aswell.

 

[SrC]

Used only Tekin very early in my RC years for racing. They are a different company these days after going out of business very long ago. And an old employee got the rights to the Tekin name and started up what we know as Tekin today. I have no experience with the new Tekin. Their motors are excellent. Most will agree. Best for racing. I like Sensored motors in general which the T8 is. Tekin is known to be very expensive by comparison to other competing brands. I have heard of Tekin RX 8's frying and going on fire. But so has Arrma BLX 185 esc's fried this way. I had my Notorious go up in flames. HH repaired the whole rig under warranty though. Kudos for that. Bashers generally don't use sensored setups. They are more costly. But I am using a Sensored HW XR8+/combo HW 1900kv motor in my Tekno MT. Sensored to me rules. But at a $cost$. Check the specs for the RX8, make sure it can handle 6S with the motor you plan on using. Motor in the K6s should be no higher than 2050 in my opinion. Some guys are using 1700-1900kv as the sweet spot with 6S on the Kraton.
Just my thoughts. Hopefully others will chime in with ideas and more practical experience with the RX8 and T8. I would not hesitate getting a Tekin motor whatsoever if the specs warrant/meet the application. I myself never considered Tekin ESC's as of late. Good luck.

edit: Tekin is generally marketed to the Racer crowd. I don't see it used much in bashing or speed running these days. Castle and HobbyWing seem to dominate.

 

[2fast4u]

Hey guys
Looking at the Tekin RX8 esc & T8 gen 3 motor for my K6S. Any one out there have experience or opinions on Tekin. Could use suggestions on motor kv aswell.

RX 8 is not water resistant. 6s KV limit is 1700Kv, T8 4038 motors rated for 6s are 1350 or 1400 Kv. The 4030 is too small for the Kraton's weight. Their stuff is ok but not sure its worth going censored for bashing.

 

[Kingleo619]

Hey guys
Looking at the Tekin RX8 esc & T8 gen 3 motor for my K6S. Any one out there have experience or opinions on Tekin. Could use suggestions on motor kv aswell.

I have a rebuilt tekin2050 motor/ rx8 it’s definitely race setup and quiet. Folks look at you like wtf bashing rx8 lol the settings to set up are confusing a lil to many beep, hot wire Would work better. I put mmx 2200 in both 46 spur 16t typhon 6s and eb48.3 stupid fast maybe to fast for bashing

 

[SrC]

The RX8 was meant for the track (why its not water proof), for sanctioned 3S/4S racing. Competitive 1/8 racing requires sensored, or you just wont get around the track with dignity. The RX8 was designed around 4S track setups, hence the motor kv limitations running 6S as I mentioned above. This ESC can be dialed for any type of track. The settings are endless. Its just not the best choice for bashing. But I always like a sensored setup in most anything If my wallet allows. My Tekno MT was deserving. So was my Lim.

 

[SrC]

Most sensored ESC's are not waterproof. Because of the sensor wire ports. IMO. They can be made water resistant up to a point using Dielectric grease sparingly around the sensor ports. (motor and ESC side) It's sometimes included with sensored ESC's. That's one Con with a Sensored setup. So rough bashing in the wet is no good with them. No BLX motor is waterproof IMHO. Water ingress will happen if submerged in water. Any non sensored type motor will work in any Sensored ESC. Sensor parameters just wont be available within the ESC. Same holds true with a Sensored motor being used in a Non sensored ESC. Its works fine. Alternatively you can run a sensored motor with a sensored ESC in NON sensored mode by NOT using the sensor cable between them. Works fine as a non sensored setup. There are options in this regard. Many don't know this.

Edit: I like sensored setups because of the low end torque control it affords. No cogging effect. Bashing doesn't always require that. But I find it very easy to get hooked on sensored setups. There is much more precision in TH control at the low to mid end of the TH curve. There is basically 2 types of sensored setps for most high end sensored ESC's Pure sensored and Hybrid sensored settings. Hybrid setting means that the sensor (hall effect) is used only until the torque curve has peaked and then reverts to NON sensored as full TH is reached. I prefer this for bashing and Speed running. Full sensored setting is generally used at the track to dial in a fast rig for a closed course track. The sensors are used up and down the complete throttle curve, always in control.
I just thought I would share my experiences and what I have learned. There is much here to digest.

 

[THC]

Most sensored ESC's are not waterproof. Because of the sensor wire ports. IMO. They can be made water resistant up to a point using Dielectric grease sparingly around the sensor ports. (motor and ESC side) It's sometimes included with sensored ESC's. That's one Con with a Sensored setup. So rough bashing in the wet is no good with them. No BLX motor is waterproof IMHO. Water ingress will happen if submerged in water. Any non sensored type motor will work in any Sensored ESC. Sensor parameters just wont be available within the ESC. Same holds true with a Sensored motor being used in a Non sensored ESC. Its works fine. Alternatively you can run a sensored motor with a sensored ESC in NON sensored mode by NOT using the sensor cable between them. Works fine as a non sensored setup. There are options in this regard. Many don't know this.

Edit: I like sensored setups because of the low end torque control it affords. No cogging effect. Bashing doesn't always require that. But I find it very easy to get hooked on sensored setups. There is much more precision in TH control at the low to mid end of the TH curve. There is basically 2 types of sensored setps for most high end sensored ESC's Pure sensored and Hybrid sensored settings. Hybrid setting means that the sensor (hall effect) is used only until the torque curve has peaked and then reverts to NON sensored as full TH is reached. I prefer this for bashing and Speed running. Full sensored setting is generally used at the track to dial in a fast rig for a closed course track. The sensors are used up and down the complete throttle curve, always in control.
I just thought I would share my experiences and what I have learned. There is much here to digest.

Thanks man, great info..