Typhon That's in there !

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Trying to change rear and steering hubs on my Typhon, the day the robot who put it together must love that Loctite it was soaked in all 4 axels. Don't have a butane torch (yet) and couldn't apply the heat directly on the hubs anyway, so before I strip that set screw I used my new Soldering kit and stuck it in there to heat it up, quickly put my hex key in it and used a small cheater bar to get it out, took me like an hour and a half to get 4 out, is there another way in case I got to do it again? I know they have to be secure but common, I had to clean the inside out with a pick before the allen got a bite on it.

 

[Yas]

I know exactly what you mean. Every 6S truck I've had from Arrma have had their axles lacquered with thread lock. Even with the grub screws removed, I couldn't pull some of the axles out from the bearings. Had to hammer them out in a vice. It's completely unnecessary and such a waste of resources. Some RCs don't even have these screws to secure the drive pin!

I use a butane kitchen torch on the wheels hex, but many people on here use a soldering iron like you have

 

[Just Joe]

I have sprayed some wd-40 into the grub screw and then put a little bit of heat to the hex… I just used a bic lighter…it helps the wd -40 dissolve the loc tite, then grub screw should loosen

 

[Rcproponent]

I’ve yet to find one my MIP bits can’t handle… every once in awhile I’ll get a really tough one and I just try and snap em as quick as possible. Usually breaks the seal and comes off.

 

[gotnitro]

Trying to change rear and steering hubs on my Typhon, the day the robot who put it together must love that Loctite it was soaked in all 4 axels. Don't have a butane torch (yet) and couldn't apply the heat directly on the hubs anyway, so before I strip that set screw I used my new Soldering kit and stuck it in there to heat it up, quickly put my hex key in it and used a small cheater bar to get it out, took me like an hour and a half to get 4 out, is there another way in case I got to do it again? I know they have to be secure but common, I had to clean the inside out with a pick before the allen got a bite on it.

View attachment 190147

What I do with grub screws is I'll take an Allen key that came with the kit OR an old key I don't care about, put it in the grub screw and heat up the Allen key with propane. I get the key glowing hot. Just like you have it in your last pic.

I take the grub screw out with a channel lock by gripping the key close to the head and twisting.

Once I get the grub screw out, I'll take a Dremel with a wire wheel and remove ALL the old thread lock.

Keep in mind that if you were to change the key to twist it or after heating it up, that key is cold and a cold key going into a hot grub screw is smaller and can strip it easily. Thats why I'll keep the old key in there RED hot! What you could also do is use one size up in a STANDARD key so it fits tightly when that grub screw is super-hot still.

This is just one way, what you did obviously worked too.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I've seen people do it with a ball head hex and it stripped right away, check out the junk that's in there, see pics, @Just Joe said he put WD40 in and burned the crap out.
I wonder if I could use acetone but I probably destroy the seals of the bearings. I want to reuse them if the new ones brake.

 

[Yas]

Heat is your friend it comes to dealing with thread lock. Even if you can't get the grub screw out, you can still salvage the hex if you can manage to knock out the pin, although it'll be pretty difficult to do so

Aluminium expands slower but will eventually expand more than steel if heated for a longer duration. Use some decent drivers and butane torch on the hex/axle - it'll come out

 

[Mr.Duke]

Every new vehicle I buy that’s one of the first things I do before I ever run it.
I put the soldering iron in the hex wide open until I can smell the red cooking then they come right out. Clean the threads with acetone and then reassemble with a touch of blue. Same with the motor mount and steering post screws. Maintenance from that point on is a breeze.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Every new vehicle I buy that’s one of the first things I do before I ever run it.
I put the soldering iron in the hex wide open until I can smell the red cooking then they come right out. Clean the threads with acetone and then reassemble with a touch of blue. Same with the motor mount and steering post screws. Maintenance from that point on is a breeze.

Yes Sir, I do that from now on, I didn't had a butane torch so that's what I did with the soldering iron. Still a pain but no one ever said this hobby was easy.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Keep in mind that if you were to change the key to twist it or after heating it up, that key is cold and a cold key going into a hot grub screw is smaller and can strip it easily. Thats why I'll keep the old key in there RED hot! What you could also do is use one size up in a STANDARD key so it fits tightly when that grub screw is super-hot still.

This is it, you're a freaking lifesaver, I didn't leave that iron in the long enough like Mr. Duke said, then I used the 2.5 driver Allen trying to get it out and of course it started to strip but I stopped it after one miss, stuck that iron in there again and used a 3/32 second Allen and bam, good bite the first try.
I love this place I would have thrown all this in a garbage can and order a new set if it wasn't for ya'll.
just tell me with all the other finicky stuff going on ...this was the hardest
@Mr.Duke if you don't mind me asking what kind of rear/steering hubs are you using or preferring ?

 

[KnowAir]

Trying to change rear and steering hubs on my Typhon, the day the robot who put it together must love that Loctite it was soaked in all 4 axels. Don't have a butane torch (yet) and couldn't apply the heat directly on the hubs anyway, so before I strip that set screw I used my new Soldering kit and stuck it in there to heat it up, quickly put my hex key in it and used a small cheater bar to get it out, took me like an hour and a half to get 4 out, is there another way in case I got to do it again? I know they have to be secure but common, I had to clean the inside out with a pick before the allen got a bite on it.

View attachment 190147

Here's my solution. Put a screw in it with a 2.5mm head that you can grab with pliers if needed, or drill or whatever. Clears the wheel hex no problem. Could use button,pan or cylindrical head screw.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Awesome, ty