Kraton The 700$ question sell my kraton 4s for the kraton EXB?

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Surchaufeur

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Arrma RC's
  1. Felony
  2. Kraton 6s
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So i have been fee up with my kraton 4s lately my esc wires kept trashing on me everytime i was fixing it button went out now the wire from the esc to the cap pack broke waiting for warranty still no tracking after 4 days of confirmed order. So here is the big juicy question is it a good idea to sell my 4s kraton and all the parts for close to 700$ canadien and get the kraton exb with the blx185 system from jenny rc? I know i need to check the exb shims in the rear diff but is it really to go out of the box after the diff fix and electronics in? Or keep the 4s kraton and save for the exb? But having 2 kratons kinda doesn't seem right?
 
It would be almost the same price for me in EU. With a Hobbywing 150A quicrun, better than the BLX185 and a X-team 4082 1600Kv motor.

I don't own any 4s, but any 6s would be a different world imo. Even if it isn't an EXB. A center differential change a lot for the handling. My Kraton V2 with aluminum braces (the cheap EXB ones should do the job also) and carbon upper deck is pretty durable as it is. As far as you don't search to do very crazy jumps like Eric or Rich, the RTR ones are good.
 
With your luck it will fall apart on your first bash.

Now seriously, I don't have a 3s or 4s Arrma but once i went 8th scale there's no going back for me. I have a 4yo kid and if I buy a serious RC for him it will be an 8th scale too.
 
With your luck it will fall apart on your first bash.

Now seriously, I don't have a 3s or 4s Arrma but once i went 8th scale there's no going back for me. I have a 4yo kid and if I buy a serious RC for him it will be an 8th scale too.
Yeah my esc will çatch first run knowing my luck 1000$ tho yikes going to find a job.
It would be almost the same price for me in EU. With a Hobbywing 150A quicrun, better than the BLX185 and a X-team 4082 1600Kv motor.

I don't own any 4s, but any 6s would be a different world imo. Even if it isn't an EXB. A center differential change a lot for the handling. My Kraton V2 with aluminum braces (the cheap EXB ones should do the job also) and carbon upper deck is pretty durable as it is. As far as you don't search to do very crazy jumps like Eric or Rich, the RTR ones are good.
I don't want to mess with bending chassi and more upgrades and get a trash radio on the v4
 
Yeah my esc will çatch first run knowing my luck 1000$ tho yikes going to find a job.

I don't want to mess with bending chassi and more upgrades and get a trash radio on the v4

I never bent mine, and i bought it with the uprgades for less than a EXB. The Tx isn't an issue, you can change it for really cheap, and maybe the V5 will come with the new spektrum Tx, like the V3 3s. Don't think the EXB is understrutible, Aaron, rcsparks, busted frankly the rear gearbox. I'm pretty sure he didn't bent the chassis, but the gearbox is suerly broken and the screw on the rear brace had surely suffer. When his friend, by doing even better jumps, only broke a shock screw on his V3 :ROFLMAO:

I'm pretty sure you would have less trouble with a V4 than all you had with the 4S. As the handling is way better, a Kraton is really nice to drive, you can do less driving mistakes.

But, if you have the budget for an EXB, yes it will be better than the RTR on some point, but it will need few upgrades too if you want to have it even more durable, we can never always avoid bad landings. I don't received mine yet and i already bought a set of slipper plate and the M2C 3035.
 
I never bent mine, and i bought it with the uprgades for less than a EXB. The Tx isn't an issue, you can change it for really cheap, and maybe the V5 will come with the new spektrum Tx, like the V3 3s. Don't think the EXB is understrutible, Aaron, rcsparks, busted frankly the rear gearbox. I'm pretty sure he didn't bent the chassis, but the gearbox is suerly broken and the screw on the rear brace had surely suffer.

I'm pretty sure you would have less trouble with a V4 than all you had with the 4S. As the handling is way better, a Kraton is really nice to drive, you can do less driving mistakes.

But, if you have the budget for an EXB, yes it will be better than the RTR on some point, but it will need few upgrades too if you want to have it even more durable, we can never always avoid bad landings. I don't received mine yet and i already bought a set of slipper plate and the M2C 3035.
My kraton 4s only has esc issues pretty but stupid stuff like this makes me angry stupid things happen to me for no reason. Going to do more reserach on the exb someone compared both trucks and the exb handles a lot better because of the limit slip differentials and more stuny in the air
 
The motor mount did bend also, no? You had issues with your diff many times no?

I only own the BRCC, i would say the drive train and slipper is ok for 3s, but i would never want to have a drive train like that, or even a plastic chassis like that, to use it with 4s, and i'm very close to hate the plastic CVD, a bad idea from Arrma imho. And what i can do with my Kraton V2 in comparison with the 3s is really way different, better handling and way stronger on so many points.

To avoit to bent the chassis on my Notorious V4, i only put two HR aluminum braces for 50$, i'm pretty sure the EXB ones can do the same job for less $. I did so many bad landings with it, the shock towers are still straight, as for the chassis too.

It's all depend of your budget and what you plan to do with it, the V4 RTR aren't that bad and doesn't bend so easily, i would say the plastic braces need to be changed first to avoid to bend the chassis, other than that it is a very good starting point.

I'm really very happy with my V2. I'm far to buy all these M2C stuff, i have a 4mm 7075 chassis for it, still wrapped in his bag, i don't feel the need to use it yet. I don't really need the EXB, i mainly buy it because i'm crazy with RC, i don't stop to buy them, but i should stop. Even by putting then on top of each other, i have no more room :ROFLMAO:
 
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The motor mount did bend also, no? You had issues with your diff many times no?

I only own the BRCC, i would say the drive train and slipper is ok for 3s, but i would never want to have a drive train like that, or even a plastic chassis like that, to use it with 4s, and i'm very close to hate the plastic CVD, a bad idea from Arrma imho. And what i can do with my Kraton V2 in comparison with the 3s is really way different, better handling and way stronger on so many points.

To avoit to bent the chassis on my Notorious V4, i only put two HR aluminum braces for 50$, i'm pretty sure the EXB ones can do the same job for less $. I did so many bad landings with it, the shock towers are still straight, as for the chassis too.

It's all depend of your budget and what you plan to do with it, the V4 RTR aren't that bad and doesn't bend so easily, i would say the plastic braces need to be changed first to avoid to bend the chassis, other than that it is a very good starting point.

I'm really very happy with my V2. I'm far to buy all these M2C stuff, i have a 4mm 7075 chassis for it, still wrapped in his bag, i don't feel the need to use it yet. I don't really need the EXB, i mainly buy it because i'm crazy with RC, i don't stop to buy them, but i should stop. Even by putting then on top of each other, i have no more room :ROFLMAO:
Yeah diffs and motor mount but all of that is now fixed permenantly my bigrock and kraton handle fine on 4s the metal diff yokes are the solution for the 4s kraton rear diff since that never had an issue the bigrock seems to be okay with plastic
Yeah true but idk what im jumping into my parents will hate my decision and what happens if i took the wrong decision?
I have become really attach to the rcs i own so its difficult to choose what to do
The issue is to me reslly i never had a center diff i don't know how it transforms the car i never drove one ever i have no idea how it feels to drive an rc with a center diff i only know it makes your front tires to become pizza cutters. But what i saw on the limit slip diff impressed me a lot
 
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Yeah diffs and motor mount but all of that is now fixed permenantly my bigrock and kraton handle fine on 4s the metal diff yokes are the solution for the 4s kraton rear diff since that never had an issue the bigrock seems to be okay with plastic
Yeah true but idk what im jumping into my parents will hate my decision and what happens if i took the wrong decision?
The issue is to me reslly i never had a center diff i don't know how it transforms the car i never drove one ever i have no idea how it feels to drive an rc with a center diff i only know it makes your front tires to become pizza cutters. But what i saw on the limit slip diff impressed me a lot

If you manage to handle a car without center diff. you will find that a car with a center diff. is way more easy to drive.

When you see cars which have tires that become pizza cutter it is because they have put a bigger motor pinion or a more powerfull combo. With a too big motor pinion the BLX185 get hot pretty quickly, you can even fry the esc. Sure with the stock diff. oil the front tires balloon in straight line, but not so crazily with the stock combo. The other situation is when you turn and a wheel start or even leave the ground, so then yes, this tire receive lot of RPM and balloon like a crazy, like on 100% of the car with diff. on the market. Just don't be so crazy and release the throttle when it happens, when you arrive at this state, it is useless to keep that much power, excepted to do the show in a video, it is impressive to watch, funny, but useless.

The other solution is to put thicker oil, this won't disallow the center diff. effect too. Even Jason Dearden agree about that, limited slip or thicker oil have almost the same effect.

Do we need crazy amount of power on a Kraton to do honest big jumps and back or front flip? not really.

I have become really attach to the rcs i own so its difficult to choose what to do

Same, i can't sell them :ROFLMAO:

I know that a brand new car is more desirable to buy, shiny, not a single scratch, brand new smell, beautiful. But i never regretted when i bought used cars in good condition. If you take the time you can find very good deal at fair price. My last buy, a Losi DB pro, bought by the guy 3 months ago, sold with 4x 3s batteries and a charger, smart esc programming box, car box, i got it for 250, a very good deal on ebay, the total cost brand new is close to 700. Sure the car has scratches, the tires are slightly used as for the drive train, but everything is ok and in really good working condition. With the EXB i see more RTR Kraton for sale on the used market.

Two other great deals, A thunder tiger bushmaster DB, without a single scratch on the chassis plate, with battery and charger, and original box, 200 . A Kyosho scorpion, original box, just assembled and never used, 150 shipped. All this on ebay.
 
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Just upgrade when broke?

Yes, and avoid to go too far in the upgrade spiral. When something is stronger on a side, something will break on an other side. On my Kraton V2 i only take care of the chassis plate, but if the shock tower bend (this never happend with me yet) it is less a problem, this doesn't avoid the car from running, doesn't bent dog bone and it can be straighten back.
 
Between the 3S, 4S, and 6S Arrma's I've owned, the 4S was by far my least favorite. Not a fan of that platform.

But if your problem is 4S electronics, I don't see how changing to a 6S car is going to make that better. You'll just end up with more expensive 6S electronics problems.
 
Between the 3S, 4S, and 6S Arrma's I've owned, the 4S was by far my least favorite. Not a fan of that platform.

But if your problem is 4S electronics, I don't see how changing to a 6S car is going to make that better. You'll just end up with more expensive 6S electronics problems.
are you going to make a YouTube video about how to put the rear diff together?

would be great ? because there is now 1 but it is very unclear ? and have had help from previous YouTube videos of you?
 
You’ll never get 700$ for a used 4s kraton no matter how many upgrades
Canadien dude new its 680$ with taxes mine is fully upgraded and ton of parts
Between the 3S, 4S, and 6S Arrma's I've owned, the 4S was by far my least favorite. Not a fan of that platform.

But if your problem is 4S electronics, I don't see how changing to a 6S car is going to make that better. You'll just end up with more expensive 6S electronics problems.
Just the esc wires pooping on me frustrating maybe i want something new img oing to work and buy the exb and get the blue body not a fan of the grey body. Combo might be a blx185 for cheap locally if not a hobbysing max 6 combo no idea yet
Just upgrade when broke?
I prefer buying something upgraded than buying when it breaks i don't want to spend 80$ canadien for a new diff for an exb bef'cause it broke or when the chassi bended and buy a hundreds of dolar chassi depending on what i get
 
Canadien dude new its 680$ with taxes mine is fully upgraded and ton of parts

Just the esc wires pooping on me frustrating maybe i want something new img oing to work and buy the exb and get the blue body not a fan of the grey body. Combo might be a blx185 for cheap locally if not a hobbysing max 6 combo no idea yet

I prefer buying something upgraded than buying when it breaks i don't want to spend 80$ canadien for a new diff for an exb bef'cause it broke or when the chassi bended and buy a hundreds of dolar chassi depending on what i get
Dude I don’t care if it’s totally upgraded you’ll never get that for it even Canadian
 
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