Limitless The BlackCat builds his first 'true' speed run car

[Panther6834]

Looks great so far. I have seen you in various posts collecting knowledge. I am sure you will do great as this platform is night and day better than the 4tec platform.

If you have not already seen it James McCoy has a great video on shock setup. I tried some random fuel tubing and then tried the neon yellow tygon fuel tube he recommends and it really is good stuff.

My biggest 2 recommendations are to get a set of GRP XM3 tires and to start with 4s and learn on that. Happy to help you with electronics and gearing when you get to that stage of the build. 4s can go from 70 to 155 mph with the XLX2 and a strong motor like a TP4070 or Castle 1721.

Thank you. It's not my "worst" rattle can paint job...but, it's far, far from my "best". Here's one example of something "better" (one of the two "MSM Edition" bodies I did for my Speed Slash, both rattle can jobs).

Regarding the electronics & gearing help offer, I'll keep that in mind. Obviously, XLX2 is the ESC of choice...as for motor, I was figuring on starting with a 1721, and then (eventually) going with something from TP Power (which I also run in a couple of my comp boats). For the spur, I know I'll start with the stock 39T, then move to the 34T, and (eventually) possibly drop to the 29T (I believe someone also makes a 28T). As for the pinion, that's where I KNOW I'll need some guidance.

Obviously, the other part of the equation is the motor's kv...and that's where I'm (currently) somewhat confused - it seems to be close to a 50-50 split on using a lower kv motor (such as 1100-1259kv) & large pinion vs a higher kv motor (in the 2000-2400kv range) & smaller pinion. Obviously, the lower kv motors have less power, and lower max RPM, but higher torque...while the higher kv motors have more power, and higher max RPM, but less torque. For crawlers, boats, and bashers, I know how to figure out what will best suit my needs...but, for something like the Limitless, I'm more on the 'clueless' side.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank you. It's not my "worst" rattle can paint job...but, it's far, far from my "best". Here's one example of something "better" (one of the two "MSM Edition" bodies I did for my Speed Slash, both rattle can jobs).

View attachment 246257

Speed runners do not need to be pretty. Just highly visible at 1500+ ft distance from you

 

[Panther6834]

Speed runners do not need to be pretty. Just highly visible at 1500+ ft distance from you

In that case, maybe, when it comes time to get the Toyota GT1 body, I should just paint it a single bright/fluorescent color...just NOT pink.

 

[Panther6834]

Tonight, I watched Raz's entire "speed run secrets revealed" series. Additionally, I followed Earl's entire Lim V2 build series. Something I didn't find mentioned in either was suggested/recommended front & rear shock oil weights. I admit, I haven't yet searched the forum for this info...I will be doing that tomorrow afternoon (while I'm waiting for my clients)...but, if anyone can share that info in the meantime, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Regarding the diffs, based on what I've read in the forum, and what I've seen others doing in their YouTube videos, I've decided...at least for now...to go ahead, and use the spool on the front diff. I will also rebuild the front (with an additional 42T ring I have yet to purchase) diff, with an 'appropriate' weight diff fluid, as a 'backup', should the spool prove problematic and/or a "bad idea". As for the rear, I believe I've decided on what weight to use as a starting point, and can always adjust up/down if needed.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Tonight, I watched Raz's entire "speed run secrets revealed" series. Additionally, I followed Earl's entire Lim V2 build series. Something I didn't find mentioned in either was suggested/recommended front & rear shock oil weights. I admit, I haven't yet searched the forum for this info...I will be doing that tomorrow afternoon (while I'm waiting for my clients)...but, if anyone can share that info in the meantime, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Regarding the diffs, based on what I've read in the forum, and what I've seen others doing in their YouTube videos, I've decided...at least for now...to go ahead, and use the spool on the front diff. I will also rebuild the front (with an additional 42T ring I have yet to purchase) diff, with an 'appropriate' weight diff fluid, as a 'backup', should the spool prove problematic and/or a "bad idea". As for the rear, I believe I've decided on what weight to use as a starting point, and can always adjust up/down if needed.

Although Raz has been successful he is still learning. At the time of those videos the scorched diff lockers just came out and many people tried them, Raz included. You will notice in any of his new builds he does not use them. This is because they are problematic in speed-run applications (best for drag).

With the travel limiters setup, you really don't have to worry about the shock oil weight as it is riding on that "bump stop" nearly the whole time.

 

[Panther6834]

Although Raz has been successful he is still learning. At the time of those videos the scorched diff lockers just came out and many people tried them, Raz included. You will notice in any of his new builds he does not use them. This is because they are problematic in speed-run applications (best for drag).

With the travel limiters setup, you really don't have to worry about the shock oil weight as it is riding on that "bump stop" nearly the whole time.

I think we're all 'learning'. Even "the best" (in every antibody, hobby, sport, etc) will always be learning. It's "human nature" that we're always trying to 'improve' things...especially things we enjoy doing. When I first got back into RC (after a 35+yr absence), I had loads of stuff I needed to learn, and relearn...but, at the same time, I was also able to help others (n00bs, as well as a few top-level local racers), which is exactly part of why I enjoy RC so much - except where the true "secrets" are concerned, all but a few are willing/interested in helping others...incl those who happen to race for 'opposing' teams (at our local tracks, v I've seen Team TLR & Team Associated sponsored drivers helping each other).

As for the spool (or locker, as some use those), I would have figured it would be 'helpful'...although, in the rear (not front). You mentioned drag cars (as I have also referenced), so I'll continue down that road. In NPRC, while some have chosen to use high-viscosity diff fluid (1-20M), or earplugs, most stick with lockers ('spools' are virtually non-existent for those vehicles). The reasoning behind locking the rear is to prevent either side from rotating faster then the other side, as that causes the cat to "shoot off" to the left/right. Obviously, only the rear is powered in NPRC, compared to the 4WD of speed run cars...but, I would have thought the same would apply (ie. the "laws of physics" don't change just because of going from RWD to 4WD). In the 4Tec, I initially tried 100K, then 250K, then 500K, and finally 1M. With the 1M, it tracks straighter than it did with the 100K & 250K (didn't really notice any difference between 500K & 1M, although that could be attributed to other adjustments). I could be correct...or completely wrong...but, if spools/lockers have proven 'problematic' in the 1/7 speed run cars, but proved 'helpful' in the 1/10, could it possibly be because of the weight difference? While a 1/7 vehicle has more weight holding the rear down (ie. less chance for left/right sides to rotate at different speeds, a 1/10 has considerably less weight, which could potentially lead to the possibility of different rotational speeds. This is just my theory, with no data to back it up...but, it would make sense. I mean, logic says, with a greater 'downforce' (ie. the larger/heavier 1/7 vehicle) that would equate to a greater "contact pressure" between the ground and tires, thus less possibility of one side 'spinning' (ie. "diffing out"). But, with the much lighter (1/10) vehicle, there's less downforce, this "contact pressure" is lessened, leading to a greater possibility of one side spinning. This could/would be exactly why locking the diff on NPRCs is so important...and maybe, just maybe, why speed runners have determined that locking either end isn't helpful. Again, just my own personal 'baseless' theory. Nevertheless, I would have still thought locking the rear could have been helpful. But, what do I know...even Kevin Talbot knows more about speed run cars than I do.

Finally, regarding the shock limiters, I believe they only applies to the rear, correct? Raz & Earl, both, only installed the tubing on the rear. I don't know what Raz does with the front (other than 'locking down' the spring), as he didn't mention anything in his "secrets revealed" videos...but I do know that Earl installed 'limiters' inside the front shocks (to shorten the eye-to-eye extended length), as well as outside (to limit the compression, and to lengthen the eye-to-eye compressed length). What Earl does it's the same thing most on-road/off-road racers do (all shocks on my race vehicles are modded this way).

Something I did notice was that, in installing the tubing on the rear shocks, Raz was doing it "the hard way". Not sure if others are aware, but there IS a faster/easier way...and, as Raz isn't into RC boats, he might not know. In RC boats, we use that same tubing as water lines, running water to the motor cooling jackets & ESC cooling plates (since boats can't exactly have fans, or 'access' to cool air), as well as (sometimes) to the water-cooled motor mounts. The thing is, that tubing is available in different diameters. Through the company I purchase from (OSE), that tubing is available with IDs as small as 2.8mm, and as large as 4.2mm, with several other diameters in-between. Using tubing with the same, or slightly larger, diameter than the shock shafts will make installing the tube a LOT easier. The other problem of using tubing that has a smaller ID than the shady diameter is that it will, eventually, completely inhibit movement of the shaft, leading (essentially) to the shock "seizing", because the tubing 'attaches' itself to the shaft. By using tubing that has an ID slightly larger than the shaft 's diameter, it allows the tubing to maintain its 'separate' nature from the shaft. While I prefer to use O-rings & nylon discs inside the shocks, I've been using tubing on the outside for several years. Just my 2¢ worth.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I think we're all 'learning'. Even "the best" (in every antibody, hobby, sport, etc) will always be learning. It's "human nature" that we're always trying to 'improve' things...especially things we enjoy doing. When I first got back into RC (after a 35+yr absence), I had loads of stuff I needed to learn, and relearn...but, at the same time, I was also able to help others (n00bs, as well as a few top-level local racers), which is exactly part of why I enjoy RC so much - except where the true "secrets" are concerned, all but a few are willing/interested in helping others...incl those who happen to race for 'opposing' teams (at our local tracks, v I've seen Team TLR & Team Associated sponsored drivers helping each other).

As for the spool (or locker, as some use those), I would have figured it would be 'helpful'...although, in the rear (not front). You mentioned drag cars (as I have also referenced), so I'll continue down that road. In NPRC, while some have chosen to use high-viscosity diff fluid (1-20M), or earplugs, most stick with lockers ('spools' are virtually non-existent for those vehicles). The reasoning behind locking the rear is to prevent either side from rotating faster then the other side, as that causes the cat to "shoot off" to the left/right. Obviously, only the rear is powered in NPRC, compared to the 4WD of speed run cars...but, I would have thought the same would apply (ie. the "laws of physics" don't change just because of going from RWD to 4WD). In the 4Tec, I initially tried 100K, then 250K, then 500K, and finally 1M. With the 1M, it tracks straighter than it did with the 100K & 250K (didn't really notice any difference between 500K & 1M, although that could be attributed to other adjustments). I could be correct...or completely wrong...but, if spools/lockers have proven 'problematic' in the 1/7 speed run cars, but proved 'helpful' in the 1/10, could it possibly be because of the weight difference? While a 1/7 vehicle has more weight holding the rear down (ie. less chance for left/right sides to rotate at different speeds, a 1/10 has considerably less weight, which could potentially lead to the possibility of different rotational speeds. This is just my theory, with no data to back it up...but, it would make sense. I mean, logic says, with a greater 'downforce' (ie. the larger/heavier 1/7 vehicle) that would equate to a greater "contact pressure" between the ground and tires, thus less possibility of one side 'spinning' (ie. "diffing out"). But, with the much lighter (1/10) vehicle, there's less downforce, this "contact pressure" is lessened, leading to a greater possibility of one side spinning. This could/would be exactly why locking the diff on NPRCs is so important...and maybe, just maybe, why speed runners have determined that locking either end isn't helpful. Again, just my own personal 'baseless' theory. Nevertheless, I would have still thought locking the rear could have been helpful. But, what do I know...even Kevin Talbot knows more about speed run cars than I do.

Finally, regarding the shock limiters, I believe they only applies to the rear, correct? Raz & Earl, both, only installed the tubing on the rear. I don't know what Raz does with the front (other than 'locking down' the spring), as he didn't mention anything in his "secrets revealed" videos...but I do know that Earl installed 'limiters' inside the front shocks (to shorten the eye-to-eye extended length), as well as outside (to limit the compression, and to lengthen the eye-to-eye compressed length). What Earl does it's the same thing most on-road/off-road racers do (all shocks on my race vehicles are modded this way).

Something I did notice was that, in installing the tubing on the rear shocks, Raz was doing it "the hard way". Not sure if others are aware, but there IS a faster/easier way...and, as Raz isn't into RC boats, he might not know. In RC boats, we use that same tubing as water lines, running water to the motor cooling jackets & ESC cooling plates (since boats can't exactly have fans, or 'access' to cool air), as well as (sometimes) to the water-cooled motor mounts. The thing is, that tubing is available in different diameters. Through the company I purchase from (OSE), that tubing is available with IDs as small as 2.8mm, and as large as 4.2mm, with several other diameters in-between. Using tubing with the same, or slightly larger, diameter than the shock shafts will make installing the tube a LOT easier. The other problem of using tubing that has a smaller ID than the shady diameter is that it will, eventually, completely inhibit movement of the shaft, leading (essentially) to the shock "seizing", because the tubing 'attaches' itself to the shaft. By using tubing that has an ID slightly larger than the shaft 's diameter, it allows the tubing to maintain its 'separate' nature from the shaft. While I prefer to use O-rings & nylon discs inside the shocks, I've been using tubing on the outside for several years. Just my 2¢ worth.

Completely agree with what you said. One interesting thing is that guys with the 1/10 scale cars swear by using a thick or locked front diff. When I began this journey I was firmly advocating for locked diffs. This should be like drag cars where there is no reason for one side to turn faster than the other since we are driving straight only. I tried locked with ear plugs/silly puddy, 250k and 500k. In the end I found that my cars drive best on original diff fluids. The 1/7 scale seems to do really good with the original diff fludis, but everyone has their own preference. Having some "give" in the system is good. The locked parts tend to break things.

I did notice the travel limter tube is locked on the shaft and can bind the travel at times. The standard silicon-type tube I borrowed from my RC Boat split after 6 runs. while. The Tygon stuff is very tuff and has survived better so far. Delrin disks or nylon would be ideal. Some guys like Raz were using a block of rubber or polyurethane.

At one point I had 3d printed various sizes of disks that could be stacked to get a perfect adjustment.

 

[Diem Turner]

I think we're all 'learning'. Even "the best" (in every antibody, hobby, sport, etc) will always be learning. It's "human nature" that we're always trying to 'improve' things...especially things we enjoy doing. When I first got back into RC (after a 35+yr absence), I had loads of stuff I needed to learn, and relearn...but, at the same time, I was also able to help others (n00bs, as well as a few top-level local racers), which is exactly part of why I enjoy RC so much - except where the true "secrets" are concerned, all but a few are willing/interested in helping others...incl those who happen to race for 'opposing' teams (at our local tracks, v I've seen Team TLR & Team Associated sponsored drivers helping each other).

As for the spool (or locker, as some use those), I would have figured it would be 'helpful'...although, in the rear (not front). You mentioned drag cars (as I have also referenced), so I'll continue down that road. In NPRC, while some have chosen to use high-viscosity diff fluid (1-20M), or earplugs, most stick with lockers ('spools' are virtually non-existent for those vehicles). The reasoning behind locking the rear is to prevent either side from rotating faster then the other side, as that causes the cat to "shoot off" to the left/right. Obviously, only the rear is powered in NPRC, compared to the 4WD of speed run cars...but, I would have thought the same would apply (ie. the "laws of physics" don't change just because of going from RWD to 4WD). In the 4Tec, I initially tried 100K, then 250K, then 500K, and finally 1M. With the 1M, it tracks straighter than it did with the 100K & 250K (didn't really notice any difference between 500K & 1M, although that could be attributed to other adjustments). I could be correct...or completely wrong...but, if spools/lockers have proven 'problematic' in the 1/7 speed run cars, but proved 'helpful' in the 1/10, could it possibly be because of the weight difference? While a 1/7 vehicle has more weight holding the rear down (ie. less chance for left/right sides to rotate at different speeds, a 1/10 has considerably less weight, which could potentially lead to the possibility of different rotational speeds. This is just my theory, with no data to back it up...but, it would make sense. I mean, logic says, with a greater 'downforce' (ie. the larger/heavier 1/7 vehicle) that would equate to a greater "contact pressure" between the ground and tires, thus less possibility of one side 'spinning' (ie. "diffing out"). But, with the much lighter (1/10) vehicle, there's less downforce, this "contact pressure" is lessened, leading to a greater possibility of one side spinning. This could/would be exactly why locking the diff on NPRCs is so important...and maybe, just maybe, why speed runners have determined that locking either end isn't helpful. Again, just my own personal 'baseless' theory. Nevertheless, I would have still thought locking the rear could have been helpful. But, what do I know...even Kevin Talbot knows more about speed run cars than I do.

Finally, regarding the shock limiters, I believe they only applies to the rear, correct? Raz & Earl, both, only installed the tubing on the rear. I don't know what Raz does with the front (other than 'locking down' the spring), as he didn't mention anything in his "secrets revealed" videos...but I do know that Earl installed 'limiters' inside the front shocks (to shorten the eye-to-eye extended length), as well as outside (to limit the compression, and to lengthen the eye-to-eye compressed length). What Earl does it's the same thing most on-road/off-road racers do (all shocks on my race vehicles are modded this way).

Something I did notice was that, in installing the tubing on the rear shocks, Raz was doing it "the hard way". Not sure if others are aware, but there IS a faster/easier way...and, as Raz isn't into RC boats, he might not know. In RC boats, we use that same tubing as water lines, running water to the motor cooling jackets & ESC cooling plates (since boats can't exactly have fans, or 'access' to cool air), as well as (sometimes) to the water-cooled motor mounts. The thing is, that tubing is available in different diameters. Through the company I purchase from (OSE), that tubing is available with IDs as small as 2.8mm, and as large as 4.2mm, with several other diameters in-between. Using tubing with the same, or slightly larger, diameter than the shock shafts will make installing the tube a LOT easier. The other problem of using tubing that has a smaller ID than the shady diameter is that it will, eventually, completely inhibit movement of the shaft, leading (essentially) to the shock "seizing", because the tubing 'attaches' itself to the shaft. By using tubing that has an ID slightly larger than the shaft 's diameter, it allows the tubing to maintain its 'separate' nature from the shaft. While I prefer to use O-rings & nylon discs inside the shocks, I've been using tubing on the outside for several years. Just my 2¢ worth.

I was just watching James McCoy's setup video and he recommends 500k in the front and 200k in the rear diff. James also does the "tubing inside the shock" method on his front shocks as he prefers this method over use of the droop screws. Personally, I wound up swapping the front lower arms out for GPM aluminum ones because the ultra stiff Joe Diaz springs make the droop screws useless and just stripped the plastic in the lower arm out. Personally I prefer this setup because making any adjustments with the "tube in shock" requires taking it all apart again, putting in a different length of tubing, etc. But that's just my personal preference. Both methods work, I just find one a lot easier to service than the other. As for shock oil, with all the shock limiting we're applying for speed running, I don't think it really makes a difference. At the rear you're looking at 1-2mm of travel at most and in the front it's probably 2-3mm. The stock shock oil is fine.

For adjustable shock limiting I made myself a bunch of these plastic c-clips that I can take off and put on without need to disassemble the shocks at all which I find a lot easier to service.

This is James' Limitless V2 setup video. Well worth a watch to get some pointers from the man who does it best.

 

[Panther6834]

The standard silicon-type tube I borrowed from my RC Boat split after 6 runs. while.

Can't say what caused that...but, I'm wondering if it could have been a combination of the shock oil being too thin and/or the springs not being stiff enough and/or the shock preload not being tightened down enough. In other words, the primary 'purpose' behind using the tubing (in a speedrun car, just as it is in any race vehicle) isn't to 'assist' in tuning the shocks (ie. "limit" movement), but is there to "prevent" movement. If the oil viscosity is too low and/or the springs are too soft and/or the preload isn't enough, the shock will still "want" to move...and, if it 'can', it 'will', despite what the tubing is there to do.

Yes, one 'solution' would be to replace the tubing with stiffer material (as you did, following Raz's example)...but, another 'solution' is to tune the shocks. In my race vehicles, the tubing is never used to "prevent" movement...it's used to "limit" movement, as the "preventing" movement is done through the thicker shock oil, stiffer springs and/or more preload. Sometimes, I don't even use tubing...instead, I'll (occasionally) use O-rings. I know these aren't available (yet?) for these shocks...but, another "tuning aid" I frequently use is dual-rate pistons. These typically have 4, 6, or 8 holes, where half the holes (which are sometimes smaller in diameter then the other holes) have silicone 'flaps', so that only half (the larger) of the holes allow fluid to flow through them when the shaft is moving in one direction, yet allows fluid movement through all holes when the shaft is moving in the other direction. Since these can be installed in either direction, a person can control which 'direction' moves faster. Unfortunately, these aren't currently available for the Limitless/Infraction shocks...but, maybe, sometime in the near future, they might be.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Can't say what caused that...but, I'm wondering if it could have been a combination of the shock oil being too thin and/or the springs not being stiff enough and/or the shock preload not being tightened down enough. In other words, the primary 'purpose' behind using the tubing (in a speedrun car, just as it is in any race vehicle) isn't to 'assist' in tuning the shocks (ie. "limit" movement), but is there to "prevent" movement. If the oil viscosity is too low and/or the springs are too soft and/or the preload isn't enough, the shock will still "want" to move...and, if it 'can', it 'will', despite what the tubing is there to do.

Yes, one 'solution' would be to replace the tubing with stiffer material (as you did, following Raz's example)...but, another 'solution' is to tune the shocks. In my race vehicles, the tubing is never used to "prevent" movement...it's used to "limit" movement, as the "preventing" movement is done through the thicker shock oil, stiffer springs and/or more preload. Sometimes, I don't even use tubing...instead, I'll (occasionally) use O-rings. I know these aren't available (yet?) for these shocks...but, another "tuning aid" I frequently use is dual-rate pistons. These typically have 4, 6, or 8 holes, where half the holes (which are sometimes smaller in diameter then the other holes) have silicone 'flaps', so that only half (the larger) of the holes allow fluid to flow through them when the shaft is moving in one direction, yet allows fluid movement through all holes when the shaft is moving in the other direction. Since these can be installed in either direction, a person can control which 'direction' moves faster. Unfortunately, these aren't currently available for the Limitless/Infraction shocks...but, maybe, sometime in the near future, they might be.

Yes in my scenario the Hobao VTE has soft springs and the threads do not go all the way down the shock body so the pre-load was not sufficient.
I will say that pros like James will tell you that the rear is allowing 2mm of travel till it rides on the travel limiter. At that 2mm travel there isn't much going on with the suspension. The front does travel more and needs to stop just before the body/chassis scrapes.

 

[Panther6834]

Personally, I wound up swapping the front lower arms out for GPM aluminum ones because the ultra stiff Joe Diaz springs make the droop screws useless and just stripped the plastic in the lower arm out.

Good to know about the Joe Diaz springs being 'too' stiff. I had them on my "possibilities" list...and, I'm fairly certain they'll be removed from the list. Something that stiff would go good on an NPRC car (and actually are on one of mine), but I'm guessing something that stiff might be "too stiff" for a speedrun car, yes?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Good to know about the Joe Diaz springs being 'too' stiff. I had them on my "possibilities" list...and, I'm fairly certain they'll be removed from the list. Something that stiff would go good on an NPRC car (and actually are on one of mine), but I'm guessing something that stiff might be "too stiff" for a speedrun car, yes?

I have em and they are fine. @vwturbowolf runs em and he is in the top 5 speed runners in the world (wheel driven cars).

 

[Panther6834]

I will say that pros like James will tell you that the rear is allowing 2mm of travel till it rides on the travel limiter. At that 2mm travel there isn't much going on with the suspension. The front does travel more and needs to stop just before the body/chassis scrapes.

As I'd figure...the same holds true for NPRC, and on-road race, cars.

 

[Panther6834]

I have em and they are fine. @vwturbowolf runs em and he is in the top 5 speed runners in the world (wheel driven cars).

My 'problem' (I say that metaphorically, not literally) with droop screws, and why I prefer to avoid them whenever possible, has to do with the damage they can cause to suspension arms. They can (and, often so) put an excessive amount of pressure to a specific point on the arms, which usually leads to the arms eventually warping.

With harder (such as carbon-reinforced, or Traxxas HD) arms, that problem can be learned, or even eliminated...but, other problems can happen (such as a stress crack). At the other end of the spectrum, arms made from softer plastic (ie. GPM) arms can end up flexing TOO much (they already flex too easily because they're softer, and then the pressure of the droop screws increases that bending).

If one thinks about it, the droop screws & preload are doing the same thing...except that they are working "against" each other. The only way to "control" either/both is to eliminate at least one of them...and, obviously, the easiest one to eliminate is the droop screws. Honestly, I've always thought of droop screws as an "improper shortcut & avoidance" to properly tuning shocks. Those who raced on/off-road will understand what I mean by that.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Yep something inside the shock body to limit the extension travel is ideal.

I will say these arms are not dinky like the Traxxas Slash type, but still the warping can happen.

 

[Panther6834]

Yep something inside the shock body to limit the extension travel is ideal.

I will say these arms are not dinky like the Traxxas Slash type, but still the warping can happen.

X-MAXX suspension arms to the rescue?

Just kidding...but, that would be hilarious - "Introducing the Arrmaxxas X-LiMAXXless, the ultimate in Speedrun monster trucks. Fastest than a speeding bullet. Able to leap tall building in a single bound. It's a bird, it's a plane. No, it's the X-LiMAXXless."

Ok...I think I'll go run and hide from everyone now.

 

[Diem Turner]

X-MAXX suspension arms to the rescue?

Just kidding...but, that would be hilarious - "Introducing the Arrmaxxas X-LiMAXXless, the ultimate in Speedrun monster trucks. Fastest than a speeding bullet. Able to leap tall building in a single bound. It's a bird, it's a plane. No, it's the X-LiMAXXless."

Ok...I think I'll go run and hide from everyone now.

lol...X-LiMAXXless...love it

 

[Panther6834]

his is James' Limitless V2 setup video. Well worth a watch to get some pointers from the man who does it best.

Yeah, I've seen his videos...already a subscriber.

One of the things I thought 'interesting' is that he used electrical tape (or something similar) to tape down the fronts of the front "canards" (as he calls them...honestly, I don't know their official name). After watching, I thought that was, in essence, a good idea...but badly done. What I'm thinking is to use thin dbl-sided tape (shock I already have, for boats), right up against the front edge of the underside, and then place onto the nose. It would achieve the same result, but won't look at bad (like my botched paint job...lol).

On a separate note, I wanted to "toss out" an idea that popped into my head. Now, I am going to admit, first & foremost, that this could be a bad idea...potentially, a REALLY bad idea...but, I wanted to get some thoughts on it (before I 'toss' if in the garbage, where it probably belongs. With crawlers, it's common to overdrive (ie. OD) the front, as it helps to 'pull' vehicles "up & over" things. When adding OD, it can be as little as 6%, or as much as 45%, with something in the 25-35% range being most common. My (possibly bad) 'idea' is, "What if OD were added to the Limitless?" Now, I'm NOT talking about crawler-level OD...I'm talking an INCREDIBLY minor OD. 43T (what comes in the V1) & 42T (what comes in the V2) ring gears are so close together that there shouldn't be any mesh problem (when mated with the 15T pinion).

I'm guessing most reading this have already figured out what my idea is...but, I'll state if nonetheless, just in case. The 'idea' it's to run the V2's stock 42T/15T (2.8 ratio) up front, while running 43T/15T (2.86666667 ratio) in the rear. The difference is so minimal, I don't think of should cause any problems...but, at the same time, if the servo trim doesn't have the steering set perfectly straight, if could actually cause the car to veer off in whichever forceps the steering is 'off'.

So...is this an idea worth pursuing? Is it something that others have already tried (successfully, or miserably)? Or, is this, pure & simple, a (really?) "BAD IDEA" that should be tossed away faster than the speed of light?

 

[Diem Turner]

Yeah, I've seen his videos...already a subscriber.

One of the things I thought 'interesting' is that he used electrical tape (or something similar) to tape down the fronts of the front "canards" (as he calls them...honestly, I don't know their official name). After watching, I thought that was, in essence, a good idea...but badly done. What I'm thinking is to use thin dbl-sided tape (shock I already have, for boats), right up against the front edge of the underside, and then place onto the nose. It would achieve the same result, but won't look at bad (like my botched paint job...lol).

On a separate note, I wanted to "toss out" an idea that popped into my head. Now, I am going to admit, first & foremost, that this could be a bad idea...potentially, a REALLY bad idea...but, I wanted to get some thoughts on it (before I 'toss' if in the garbage, where it probably belongs. With crawlers, it's common to overdrive (ie. OD) the front, as it helps to 'pull' vehicles "up & over" things. When adding OD, it can be as little as 6%, or as much as 45%, with something in the 25-35% range being most common. My (possibly bad) 'idea' is, "What if OD were added to the Limitless?" Now, I'm NOT talking about crawler-level OD...I'm talking an INCREDIBLY minor OD. 43T (what comes in the V1) & 42T (what comes in the V2) ring gears are so close together that there shouldn't be any mesh problem (when mated with the 15T pinion).

I'm guessing most reading this have already figured out what my idea is...but, I'll state if nonetheless, just in case. The 'idea' it's to run the V2's stock 42T/15T (2.8 ratio) up front, while running 43T/15T (2.86666667 ratio) in the rear. The difference is so minimal, I don't think of should cause any problems...but, at the same time, if the servo trim doesn't have the steering set perfectly straight, if could actually cause the car to veer off in whichever forceps the steering is 'off'.

So...is this an idea worth pursuing? Is it something that others have already tried (successfully, or miserably)? Or, is this, pure & simple, a (really?) "BAD IDEA" that should be tossed away faster than the speed of light?

Don't do it. The teeth are cut differently and won't mesh well. Stick to the stock gears, you'll be fine.

 

[Panther6834]

Don't do it. The teeth are cut differently and won't mesh well. Stick to the stock gears, you'll be fine.

Well, I did say it could be an incredibly bad idea...one 'worthy' of throwing away as quickly as it came to me.

As I haven't opened the diffs on my V2, and I have never looked at the R&P gears on the V1, I'm going to take a wild guess that, possibly, one is straight cut, and the other is spiral cut? If so, the "don't do it" would make 100% sense.