Typhon The Evol Speed Build

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Here is a comparison of the M2c droop screws vs stock-
Those look amazing. However the M2C website describes them as "Shorter than Stock". This makes me wonder just how low you can get you car with them before they fall out?
 
Those look amazing. However the M2C website describes them as "Shorter than Stock". This makes me wonder just how low you can get you car with them before they fall out?
Was it M4 size you used?
I'd just get a nice "capped" type nut to fit underneath and glue/loctite it on.
Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6...hash=item54254c696e:m:mTIfDzF8y5YWC9ivPuTENfg

s-l1600.jpg


That would work I'd imagine. Might try that myself eventually. ;)
 
Definitely take baby steps, make sure you have no radio issues.
Another perk to the Castle ESC is the option for drag brake. Just in case it does drop reception it will automatically apply the brake instead of coasting off at 100+
Alignments and stiff suspensions are important, I also highly recommend a raked stance where the tail end is jacked up higher than the front. It will naturally squat back down some under power. The number 1 enemy is having the front end lift up.
Aero drag is the enemy of speed. Check out Phill's videos, he has hundreds...(king of speed) look at how he sets up his cars/trucks.

I may end up doing a little speed running with my Kraton also, even though I told my self I wouldn't. I just cant resist :)

-Liberty
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the hobbywing max series offer a drag brake setting? Im pretty sure my max6 does.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the hobbywing max series offer a drag brake setting? Im pretty sure my max6 does.
You're right, Hobbywing Max5 and Max6 ESC's have a drag brake setting with 9 different levels of adjustment from 0 to 16%. It's the 11th setting function on the ESC.
 

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So I want to get some thoughts from some of you more experienced speed guys.

I see that some have went with the extended "Kraton/Talion" chassis for Typhon Speed builds. I know one perk of this is to give you more room for the longer motor. So my first question is, is there any other advantage to the extended chassis? More front end stability perhaps?

The second question, or idea I had, came to me when watching the video on the "trugifed" Typhon. By putting Kraton knuckles, axles, and hexs on the Typhon, it would extend the stance which would provide 2 benefits. 1) I have heard the GRP wheels tend to rub on the Typhon knuckles, this would eliminate that issue. 2) a wide stance provides more stability. With that said, the knuckles being exposed will produce more drag. I already have the parts for the conversion, so I may just try it myself anyway, but I am interested in the your thoughts.
 
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The whole reason i went with a longer chassis was because i had a bad wreck and bent my stock chassis, i see no benefits other then more motor room with longer chassis myself.
 
I'm probably going to do the kraton chassis on my typhon. Trying to stuff a big TP Power motor in the typhon chassis is impossible. And might as well go ahead and do the knuckles, axles, hex's etc. Then I guess I'll have a kraton instead of a typhon ???
 
So I want to get some thoughts from some of you more experienced speed guys.

I see that some have went with the extended "Kraton/Talion" chassis for Typhon Speed builds. I know one perk of this is to give you more room for the longer motor. So my first question is, is there any other advantage to the extended chassis? More front end stability perhaps?

Object lesson here to help visualize the concepts...
Have you ever balanced a rod/baseball bat/ broom etc on you palm with the object vertical? If you do this with a long object versus a shorter object you can see the drastic difference in correction time required to keep it pointed up. You could say the longer broom is easier to control and stays the intended direction much easier. The same thing occurs with chassis length. A longer wheelbase will provide better high speed stability. Can you go 150mph on a short wheelbase, absolutely! With that said it is simply more stable/controllable on a longer wheelbase.
 
I'm half tempted to do the kraton chasssis on my Notorious as I can't keep it from becoming a tumbleweed.
 
I'm probably going to do the kraton chassis on my typhon. Trying to stuff a big TP Power motor in the typhon chassis is impossible. And might as well go ahead and do the knuckles, axles, hex's etc. Then I guess I'll have a kraton instead of a typhon ???
The biggest TP Power I've been able to fit is a 4060/4092 sized motor, and that just barely fits without hitting the rear A-arms. I tried a TP 4070 around 2 years ago and there's no way It'll fit Lolll. I actually had to slightly bend the motor leads out of the way for clearance. Here's a few pics from before I slightly bent the leads.
 

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All these different motor size specifications. nomenclatures, get me all confused. I have a TP 4070-CM 2700kv AND a TP 4070-V1 2250kv They both measure 107mm end cap to end cap, and 40 mm diameter. So whatever that equates to? No matter which way I turn it, one of the end cap retaining screws is against the rear lower control arm pin bracket. I'd have to grind all the way through to the pin, to have it sit level. I do have a brand new Kraton chassis, as I replaced the one on my Kraton with a Just bash it chassis. Guess I'm heading that direction.
 
I'm probably going to do the kraton chassis on my typhon. Trying to stuff a big TP Power motor in the typhon chassis is impossible. And might as well go ahead and do the knuckles, axles, hex's etc. Then I guess I'll have a kraton instead of a typhon ???
not impossible as i have always ran a 4070 can in typhon for last 2 years. just have to gring rear a arm and hinge pin mount and lastly larger spur gear.
 
Thanks Phildogg, you are the guru. It just looked like to me, that I'd have to grind almost all the way through the hinge pin mount. I'll do some more looking.:)
 
not impossible as i have always ran a 4070 can in typhon for last 2 years. just have to gring rear a arm and hinge pin mount and lastly larger spur gear.
Just curious to see how much of the rear A-arm and hinge pin mount you had to grind off? I'm really curious to find out because I know you've been doing this for years.
 
Just curious to see how much of the rear A-arm and hinge pin mount you had to grind off? I'm really curious to find out because I know you've been doing this for years.
not sure the hinge pin mount honestly depends on spur gear used, the larger it is the farther away it sits. the A arm maybe 1/8th inch.
 
Thanks Phildogg, you are the guru. It just looked like to me, that I'd have to grind almost all the way through the hinge pin mount. I'll do some more looking.:)
no prob, but remember depends on spur, 38t vs 34 t spur with 34t pinion as example. bigger gears gets it farther away.
 
OK, with the confedence of Phildogg, I put the dremel to work, and the 4070 is in! There is a bit of grinding to do, especially on the lower arm, to allow "some" movement. But this is a speed build, not a basher build. Now fixin to do some soldering. Whoopee!
 
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