The new castle xlx2 fan is a complete joke

[DoNoHarm]

Anyone with the xlx 2 esc having issue with it not making the beeping noise? Mine just stopped making the beeping noise period. I have to look at the led light to make sure its blinking correct lipos. Everything else works like it’s supposed, btw I am also using 2028 1100kv sensored.

That’s a weird one. Have you driven the car since the beeps stopped? Those are predominantly controlled through the motor (those beeps are the ESC pulsing current through the motor)

 

[Armarookie43]

Anyone with the xlx 2 esc having issue with it not making the beeping noise? Mine just stopped making the beeping noise period. I have to look at the led light to make sure its blinking correct lipos. Everything else works like it’s supposed, btw I am also using 2028 1100kv sensored.

I see a few people having issues with the 1100kv motor sensored from Castle and the XLX2. I'm running the XLX2 AND 800KV MOTOR and no issues so far, besides it puffing my batteries with the insane power. Some people are getting the "excessive overload" error beeps.

 

[Sequest82]

That’s a weird one. Have you driven the car since the beeps stopped? Those are predominantly controlled through the motor (those beeps are the ESC pulsing current through the motor)

I was doing speed runs, and on my last pull it lost throttle, thats when the beeping stopped. I rebinded the tx and recalibrated the throttle, by looking at the led. Seems to run fine, just no sound. Maybe need to give castle a call.

I see a few people having issues with the 1100kv motor sensored from Castle and the XLX2. I'm running the XLX2 AND 800KV MOTOR and no issues so far, besides it puffing my batteries with the insane power. Some people are getting the "excessive overload" error beeps.

Yes I did get a excessive overload a few times on my speed runs.

 

[DoNoHarm]

I was doing speed runs, and on my last pull it lost throttle, thats when the beeping stopped. I rebinded the tx and recalibrated the throttle, by looking at the led. Seems to run fine, just no sound. Maybe need to give castle a call.

Yes I did get a excessive overload a few times on my speed runs.

If you tested the truck after the beeps stopped and the motor was still not working, probably a bad connection or a bad motor. I’d give castle a call.

 

[Sequest82]

If you tested the truck after the beeps stopped and the motor was still not working, probably a bad connection or a bad motor. I’d give castle a call.

Just tested it again, sensored or senseless the motor cogs and stutters with no power. I checked the solder joints all seems good. Good chance its bad motor but I’ll let castle make that determination.

 

[jondilly1974]

Anyone with the xlx 2 esc having issue with it not making the beeping noise? Mine just stopped making the beeping noise period. I have to look at the led light to make sure its blinking correct lipos. Everything else works like it’s supposed, btw I am also using 2028 1100kv sensored.

Call Castle support. I had this happen to my MM2 Retro. It needs replaced.

 

[The Donut Man]

Now I am admittedly no speed runner, but I guess I am just curious why one would not just want the fan running? I mean even if it stays "cool" without, wouldn't it be even "cooler" with the fan running? The miniscule amp draw of the fan can't be a factor??? Just seems to me you'd want the static state of the fan to be at least a low speed.

Good question. I know that on runs where the original XLX was getting over 150 degrees (I think; don’t quote me on that), the XLX2 was barely breaking 100 degrees which is nothing for a 20hp+ setup. My train of thought is that for speed running, you want all of your available power going directly to your motor. Any little source that reduces that power just limits your top end (if only slightly) which is why the fan only comes on when it needs to. That’s why I run my cooling fans off a separate 2S LiPo.

 

[SrC]

Now I am admittedly no speed runner, but I guess I am just curious why one would not just want the fan running? I mean even if it stays "cool" without, wouldn't it be even "cooler" with the fan running? The miniscule amp draw of the fan can't be a factor??? Just seems to me you'd want the static state of the fan to be at least a low speed.

So true. These fans are not inside a PC server or on a processor. Why the throttling. I would ask @robert@castle that question. Why was the fan throttled?
A bit of over engineering? To spare wear and tear? Runs cool to begin with? Leave "off" until it reaches a temp threshold?

 

[DoNoHarm]

Just tested it again, sensored or senseless the motor cogs and stutters with no power. I checked the solder joints all seems good. Good chance its bad motor but I’ll let castle make that determination.

Sounds like 1 of the 3 wires isn’t making connection. If all the wires are tight it’s either the motor or ESC.

 

[Crewchief227]

Good to know. The MMX8S fans were pretty terrible too. Par for the course.

Yeah, mine broke a blade 2nd day out. 3rd day and it broke 2 more. Got a Powerhobby 40mm aluminum fan and haven't had a issue since. ?

 

[Armarookie43]

Yeah, mine broke a blade 2nd day out. 3rd day and it broke 2 more. Got a Powerhobby 40mm aluminum fan and haven't had a issue since. ?
View attachment 110934

Yup that's what I did too, but I just used the stock plastic fan shroud on top of it. Yeah those powerhobby fans are very durable, pretty cheap and they don't sound like a freaking jet engine like those fans that are being used now ?

 

[Crewchief227]

So true. These fans are not inside a PC server or on a processor. Why the throttling. I would ask @robert@castle that question. Why was the fan throttled?
A bit of over engineering? To spare wear and tear? Runs cool to begin with? Leave "off" until it reaches a temp threshold?

Probably

What I don't understand is how I'm so confident about running my tekin RX8g3 with no fan whatsoever ? in a 10min Main and do more hard throttling than any of my bashers. Maybe it's because I can see the temp with just a quick glance and know she's fine. Maybe it's the less than 2" main leads that feed her, ?‍. Bash on tekin all you want, my HW XR8+ keeps a fan on my identical buggy. And my tekin is pushing a truggy??

 

[robert@castle]

I took this video for a buddy of mine who has an xlx2 also and he was worried because it doesn’t always turn on..I’m guessing it comes on with a heat sensor
But why bother.. this fan is a complete joke and is a waste ..luckily I ordered the Alza racing dual
40mm fan mount a couple weeks ago so I’ll be using that

For the XLX2, we actually have a 12v regulator in the ESC to power the fan rather than using BEC voltage like the majority of our other ESCs. It is a 50mm 12v fan. It very rarely has to turn on if at all because the ESC runs so cool. It turns on when you power up the ESC to confirm it is working and then shuts down. It turns on once the ESC hits 60c, but that is very difficult to hit.

 

[SrC]

I still have my very first Tekin Brushed (420F) from the late 1980's. Works fine. Tekin was the top gear at the time. Their Mosfets were almost Aerospace grade quality back then. Pros just needed them to win big events. I only used Tekin back then and had all their ESC's, chargers and even a programmer tool that was way ahead of its time. Tekin went of business years later. One employee purchased the Tekin name subsequently and years after started up what we now know as Tekin today.
Their current ESC's are favored by Track guys for sure. They excel with their BLX motors. Fires were once a problem with them. Not any sure beyond that.
Inn a track setup, the shortest power leads feasible, makes the most efficient ESC. If I could I would place the ESC right at the battery. 1/2" leads between is not feasible but in theory is ideal. Quality and amount of MosFets make for a cooler running ESC.

 

[robert@castle]

So true. These fans are not inside a PC server or on a processor. Why the throttling. I would ask @robert@castle that question. Why was the fan throttled?
A bit of over engineering? To spare wear and tear? Runs cool to begin with? Leave "off" until it reaches a temp threshold?

A few reasons:
Some customers don't like the extra noise from the fan.
It's a good audible indicator that the ESC is hot.
Wear and tear on the fan, limited life on the bearings.
Fan is more likely to break while spinning. They are designed to run in computers and don't take the vibrations of RC very well.
Extra wattage needlessly pulled from the battery(doesn't really do that much but we like to prevent any waste).

 

[SrC]

For the XLX2, we actually have a 12v regulator in the ESC to power the fan rather than using BEC voltage like the majority of our other ESCs. It is a 50mm 12v fan. It very rarely has to turn on if at all because the ESC runs so cool. It turns on when you power up the ESC to confirm it is working and then shuts down. It turns on once the ESC hits 60c, but that is very difficult to hit

Thats exactly what I suspected and eluded to. The Castle BEC circuit is separate from the ESC's fan circuit unlike most other Brand ESC's. it The Castle Cryo technology keeps temps at bay, primarily. Thanks Robert.
don't need the fan to run if not required at certain loads. The fan lasts way longer if only used as needed and at a throttled speed to accommodate fluctuating temps on demand. Much like high end PC Server's.

 

[Ajag]

A few reasons:
Some customers don't like the extra noise from the fan.
It's a good audible indicator that the ESC is hot.
Wear and tear on the fan, limited life on the bearings.
Fan is more likely to break while spinning. They are designed to run in computers and don't take the vibrations of RC very well.
Extra wattage needlessly pulled from the battery(doesn't really do that much but we like to prevent any waste).

Thanks for the explanation and info Robert
I haven’t had any thermal issues with the xlx2 yet so I haven’t really been worried about the fan. I was just kind of surprised at how little air this 50mm fan moves. If the esc does encounter a thermal issue I’m not sure how much it’ll do to lower temps but I’m just going to opt on the side of safety and run a 40mm fan on top instead of this stock one.

I appreciate you Chiming in for sure though !

I’m a big fan of the castle esc’s

 

[SrC]

If you tested the truck after the beeps stopped and the motor was still not working, probably a bad connection or a bad motor. I’d give castle a call.

I noticed one bad motor phase wire sometimes will allow a motor to run (not always). And it will cog violently if it does. Even with one phase wire disconnected this will happen. Again only with some motors. Rare. Just saying the motor leads are a first place to check. Use a DVM and check for continuity along its whole lead length as well as resistance. All 3 leads should Measure in ohms the same. Usually its a bullet connector or solder joint failure. A quick and easy place to start. Process of elimination. Rule this out before suspecting a bad ESC

 

[Sequest82]

I noticed one bad motor phase wire sometimes will allow a motor to run (not always). And it will cog violently if it does. Even with one phase wire disconnected this will happen. Again only with some motors. Rare. Just saying the motor leads are a first place to check. Use a DVM and check for continuity along its whole lead length as well as resistance. All 3 leads should Measure in ohms the same. Usually its a bullet connector or solder joint failure. A quick and easy place to start. Process of elimination. Rule this out before suspecting a bad ESC

Thanks, I ended sending the esc and motor back to castle for them to diagnose. Lets hope I hear good news.

 

[rotauq]

On a single over-geared 500+A run my xlx2 fan didn't even needed to turn on, topped on 56.5C (16C outside)

On short distance abusive testing runs, 12-15min of semi bashing/dragging i managed to get the fan running at a point where the old xlx and my max5 would already have hit thermal protection. Log's showed 68C max.

I can only conclude the thermal design is a great engineering by Castle.