The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

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Thanks Razor, this is the correct part number for the springs and will fit right, TLR5183 front and TLR243015 rear. Also my front diff is leaking and came across this https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-l...housing-w-integrated-insert-tlr332001/p248205 would this fit and be better than stock?

No, you gotta buy the TEN-SCTE springs. They come in packs of four for about $20.
https://bit.ly/3dgmzLt
https://bit.ly/3gyG6bP

As for the housing, I don't know. It says it fits the SCTE 1.0 though, which should be the same as the Tenacity, so my guess is probably yes.
What is the DB Pro comparable to .. like what would it be racing against? Is anyone racing these indoors?

You would have to put a short course body on it, then you would race with 4x4 short course trucks -- Slash 4x4, TEN-SCTE, Tekno SCT410.3, etc.
 
No. Compress shock, fill to top of body, screw down cap. You will have a slightly higher air/oil ratio than is probably ideal, but nobody is going to notice. You need a little air in the shock anyway for emulsion shocks.
that solves the top part, how about the bottom seals?
 
No. Compress shock, fill to top of body, screw down cap. You will have a slightly higher air/oil ratio than is probably ideal, but nobody is going to notice. You need a little air in the shock anyway for emulsion shocks.
Thanks for the input Razor. I've watched a few of your videos (especially on radios).
I purchased these o rings based on your recommendation, however I too was led to believing you need the bleeder caps to use these.

So you're saying that when filling your shocks with new oil, compress the shock once full to the top of the body, then screw the cap back on with the o ring in place? That allows for full compression and doesn't give the shock exsissive rebound?
 
Thanks for the input Razor. I've watched a few of your videos (especially on radios).
I purchased these o rings based on your recommendation, however I too was led to believing you need the bleeder caps to use these.

So you're saying that when filling your shocks with new oil, compress the shock once full to the top of the body, then screw the cap back on with the o ring in place? That allows for full compression and doesn't give the shock exsissive rebound?

Yup. Hold in the shock when you screw on the cap, won't be any rebound.
 
Awesome, I'll try that on my next oil change. I just switched to 42.5 front and rear. It's taking the jumps and the rough terrain better now.
 
Found some new dirt by me, went out for a couple packs and MIP said ?

Don't recommend MIP driveshafts w cups. I do recommend the stock bones and HD cups. What a fukcing waste.. Oh well, that's RC'n!

IMG_0999.JPG
 
Found some new dirt by me, went out for a couple packs and MIP said ?

Don't recommend MIP driveshafts w cups. I do recommend the stock bones and HD cups. What a fukcing waste.. Oh well, that's RC'n!

View attachment 94290
Did the pin come out?
 
If you have the hardened out puts wont it just wear out the bones just as fast? also what diff fluids do you guys recommend running for a more race set up, thanks.
 
If you have the hardened out puts wont it just wear out the bones just as fast? also what diff fluids do you guys recommend running for a more race set up, thanks.

The pins will eventually get hammered flat (as they would on the stock cup) but at least they wont break off. The cups being hardened will last longer. What type of track conditions? For me, I put a 2200kv 1/8th scale HW in it, the CD gets smokin hot without it being almost fully locked on 20M. I'm not racing it though.
 
What body is this? Looks awesome!
Just got a Tenacity TT Pro, what servo do you guys use to replace the stock one? Don't want to spend TOO much, but willing to pay for quality...
It is the proline 1972 c10 Body. I run a ds3225sg like 30 bucks on amazon
 
Lesson this week: the CVD's will warp on 3S. I'll be ordering replacements in the near future. I've looked for aftermarket 'better' ones but can't seem to find any.
 
Lesson this week: the CVD's will warp on 3S. I'll be ordering replacements in the near future. I've looked for aftermarket 'better' ones but can't seem to find any.

I honestly don't know how they expect the Lasernut to run 4S. I haven't checked the part numbers, but I think they're the same. The drivetrain was designed for 2S, can barely survive 3S...
 
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