The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

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arrma_tigger said:
That was 3S. True .. could be Monday CVD's. That said, the new right front already has a very slight warp (less than the right rear above) - and the only place it's been is on a baseball diamond (on 2S only). Again, I'm not the only one seeing these results - so this isn't exclusive to me or this specific car.
Click to expand...

What are you running in your diffs?
 
She's a blast on the street too with some hoons!
IMG_1027.JPG
 
I have 20M packed in that CD, you'd think it wouldn't spin much with a 1/8th scale motor on hoons right? I mean, we run 20M in our K8s's..

Temping the front CD out drive below. My motor was 138 and the ESC was 111.... As everyone already knows, this buggy was not made for that kind of power but its a blast! (y)?
IMG_1028 (1).JPG
 
gotnitro said:
That might be why I'm not torqueing up CVD's. Stock is too thin IMO. I remember when I opened mine up, the gears were only what seemed to be coated, wasn't even full. I'm running 100k F&R with 20M in the CD lol..
Click to expand...
I’ll have to open them up go through them before the maiden rip.
 
Hi guys hope everyone had a good Christmas, I am having shock trouble once again. I tried what Razor recommended (40 weight losi with blue spring front and 35 weight losi with silver spring rear) and the car still has terrible chassis slap from a drop test. I tried 45w front and 42.5w with green spring in the rear and still not a big difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know bottoming out is normal but right now from a small drop it will slap real bad and then be followed by a bounce.
 
Maxx. D said:
Hi guys hope everyone had a good Christmas, I am having shock trouble once again. I tried what Razor recommended (40 weight losi with blue spring front and 35 weight losi with silver spring rear) and the car still has terrible chassis slap from a drop test. I tried 45w front and 42.5w with green spring in the rear and still not a big difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know bottoming out is normal but right now from a small drop it will slap real bad and then be followed by a bounce.
Click to expand...

As you know, totally normal. You have 2 options, go heavier on the oil and springs, risk busting up shock ends OR dealing with the slap. This rig was not designed to be launched to the moon and landed without any repercussion. Not saying that you do that, just in general.
 
Greetings all,

Here is a piece on my Lasernut U4: http://www.mojavevalleyrcadventures.com/lasernut-u4.html

And the shocks also felt soft for me. I ended up getting these springs with my aftermarket shocks

Losi LOSB2963 Rear Shock Spring Tuning Set (8) TEN-SCTE
Losi LOSB2959 Front Shock Spring Tuning Set (8) TEN-SCTE

You may need to fool with your lower cup and upper collar to get the best fit.

I also agree that it's not a basher, so be ready to replace parts if jumping is a part of your plans.

s
 
Just started rebuilding the center diff and heres some issues I came across, just thought i'd share this.

1. spur gear is showing signs of wear after roughly 40 packs.
2. center diff came with nearly no fluid but their seemed to be a bit of oil/grease on the spur which could have came from the center diff leaking but all the seals seemed fine.
3. one of my spider gears is missing half of its teeth but seemed to be running fine with it.

After all the harsh track days and abuse the only damage has been the one spider gear, center and rear diff outputs are very worn and 1 broken shock rod end.
 
Maxx. D said:
Hi guys hope everyone had a good Christmas, I am having shock trouble once again. I tried what Razor recommended (40 weight losi with blue spring front and 35 weight losi with silver spring rear) and the car still has terrible chassis slap from a drop test. I tried 45w front and 42.5w with green spring in the rear and still not a big difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know bottoming out is normal but right now from a small drop it will slap real bad and then be followed by a bounce.
Click to expand...

Do you have the preload collars lowered all the way? The problem is that the DB body is pretty heavy, I'm pretty sure it's quite a bit heavier than the Lexan bodies.

Is it slapping in the rear or the front? They also have a purple spring for the front, I think that's the stiffest. You also need to figure out if it's slapping because the spring is too soft (my guess) or because there is not enough damping. If there is not enough damping, you could also put in smaller hole pistons which would let the shock pack up faster while still giving you some halfway decent plushness on flat ground running. These should fit: https://bit.ly/38LLPb4

The other thing you could do is fill the shock with oil and put the cap on with the shaft all the way out (or maybe like 3/4 out) which would force it to hydrolock. You could play with the % of air to oil in the shock to get the bare minimum of shock compression you need.

Also try moving the shocks to the outside hole on top.
 
Hi Razor, the truck slaps then bounces in the rear end only and as of now I have the collars fully tightened front and rear. As stated earlier I tried 42.5 weight losi with a green spring(stiffest option) and still did not find a positive result. I did what you said and went emulsion style shock but to get no rebound I lost a few millimeters of oil and now under full compression I can hear the shock sucking in air which I assume is not good, what's your thoughts on that. Thank you for your help!
 
Maxx. D said:
Hi Razor, the truck slaps then bounces in the rear end only and as of now I have the collars fully tightened front and rear. As stated earlier I tried 42.5 weight losi with a green spring(stiffest option) and still did not find a positive result. I did what you said and went emulsion style shock but to get no rebound I lost a few millimeters of oil and now under full compression I can hear the shock sucking in air which I assume is not good, what's your thoughts on that. Thank you for your help!
Click to expand...

Heh, I forgot that I went emulsion on mine. Rebound is OK on this truck, I'd probably set it up for a bit of rebound on the shock.

You could also try running longer rod ends if there is still room under the shock to compress when the truck's suspension compresses. Or back out the existing rod end 1mm.
 
razorrc said:
Heh, I forgot that I went emulsion on mine. Rebound is OK on this truck, I'd probably set it up for a bit of rebound on the shock.

You could also try running longer rod ends if there is still room under the shock to compress when the truck's suspension compresses. Or back out the existing rod end 1mm.
Click to expand...
Ya after looking their is a few extra millimeters of travel left in the shock after the chassis bottoms out, what would installing longer rod ends do? I have fuel tubing would that do the same thing if I put some on the shock shaft.
 
Maxx. D said:
Ya after looking their is a few extra millimeters of travel left in the shock after the chassis bottoms out, what would installing longer rod ends do? I have fuel tubing would that do the same thing if I put some on the shock shaft.
Click to expand...

It lengthens the shock, effectively making it like you are running a longer shock. Will give you more suspension travel to absorb the landing.
 
Had some 4S packs lying around, tried one on the DB Pro with the stock 2s pinion...
Plastic spur handled it just fine (for now), I am running lighter and slightly smaller wheels though.
But my brain is barely fast enough to steer that pocketrocket on 4S, also need to stock up on tire glue ;)
 

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