The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

[parcou]

I have had my dB pro since late March, and have had to replace a ton already, nothing being crash related. Love the thing when it’s working, but all the driveshafts/outdrives/axles are terrible out of the box and wear extremely quickly. I ended up doing the tekno axle/outdrives on the front and rear, and the mip kit for all the center driveshafts/outdrives. The pucks system is legit, much smoother and a easily replaceable wear part, as well as making the car significantly quieter. The stock bearings are not great, replaced all with the eddys kit after one literally imploded, and also did the metal diff bearing cups in the rear. And a savox 1258 servo, but that was just a wanted upgrade.

So my current issues...the rear outdrives have a lot of play, so I need to replace the rear diff case. Does anyone know if the Losi aluminum one (listed for the lasernut center diff) will work in the rear? Also, I have wheel nuts loosening up (even with generous amounts of blue loctite) and quickly round out the wheel interface when it happens. Anyone do the hot racing or similar 17mm conversion kit and go to 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires?

Hi.

I cannot answer all your questions but I have no issues with the Traxxas randomized flanged serrated nuts. They bit good and I use them on my Big Rock and Granite far better than OEM.

I will agree the bearings disappointed me once. I had a rear diff bearing lock-up only after 4-6 packs and I run it only in dirt no water. I was not getting power to the rear only partialy. Took it apart found the diff on one side was locking so I replaced it. I ordered a diff kit I am waiting on.

 

[Maxx. D]

Hey, i do run the db pro most stock, savöx 2292sg servo.
So bashing aint my thing so i did a buggy rebuild but hadn't had a chance to Drive it yet.
Diffs are rebuilt 4K/4K/3k
2s Pinion
2s battery

View attachment 140173

View attachment 140174

View attachment 140175

I have put so much money into this one car and it's getting a bit annoying. I installed the losi adjustable springs and put 42.5 weight oil in and it'll still bottom out on a 5 inch drop, anyone have any suggestions? Anyways, this build is sweet! In the video I was confused with how he mounted the body, how did you do it? Just broke a front drive shaft so i'm thinking about getting the tekno upgraded ones but on amain they have some bad reviews how are they holding up for you guys?

 

[parcou]

I have put so much money into this one car and it's getting a bit annoying. I installed the losi adjustable springs and put 42.5 weight oil in and it'll still bottom out on a 5 inch drop, anyone have any suggestions? Anyways, this build is sweet! In the video I was confused with how he mounted the body, how did you do it? Just broke a front drive shaft so i'm thinking about getting the tekno upgraded ones but on amain they have some bad reviews how are they holding up for you guys?

Hmmm....5" drop is not that high but as stock, I do not see this issue you describe. Now chassis slap is normal so that is not a bad thing. I have adjusted the collar on the springs and need to come down more which has helped my rebound. In addition, this is not a send-it RC. I will assume you are using like a 5000mah battery or in that range and not something like an 8000mah which would too heavy.

 

[Maxx. D]

Hi thanks for the quick reply, I like to take this truck out to my local track which consist of larger size jumps as this rig is based of a race platform (scte 2.0). I know that some slap is good but this slaps way to much, on the smallest bumps it'll smack the chassis and on the big jumps it's even worse and I feel bad for the car as its very rough on it. The shocks are designed to absorb most of the shock, not the chassis. Anyone have any good shock setups?

edit: To answer your question I run standard 2s racing lipos.

 

[gotnitro]

Hi thanks for the quick reply, I like to take this truck out to my local track which consist of larger size jumps as this rig is based of a race platform (scte 2.0). I know that some slap is good but this slaps way to much, on the smallest bumps it'll smack the chassis and on the big jumps it's even worse and I feel bad for the car as its very rough on it. The shocks are designed to absorb most of the shock, not the chassis. Anyone have any good shock setups?

edit: To answer your question I run standard 2s racing lipos.

If you are racing this buggy and the back 1/2 of the chassis doesn't look like its been on a belt sander made of large stones then something is wrong. I agree that it might need a bit more spring, what rebound are you running?

 

[slick2500]

If you are racing this buggy and the back 1/2 of the chassis doesn't look like its been on a belt sander made of large stones then something is wrong. I agree that it might need a bit more spring, what rebound are you running?

Yup you do not want to completely eliminate chassis slap or you will start breaking off shock mounts.

 

[Maxx. D]

Rebound is when you compress the shock with no spring right? If that's the case they rebound about half way out. I tried zero rebound but that meant only half my shock would have oil in it. As of now with 42.5 weight oil in the rear it feels way to sprung so i'll have to try thicker oil, right?

Also, how did that guy mount the body mounts for the 8ight 4.0 body?

 

[gotnitro]

Rebound is when you compress the shock with no spring right? If that's the case they rebound about half way out. I tried zero rebound but that meant only half my shock would have oil in it. As of now with 42.5 weight oil in the rear it feels way to sprung so i'll have to try thicker oil, right?

Also, how did that guy mount the body mounts for the 8ight 4.0 body?

Yes and no. Yes rebound is how you measure the shaft coming out of the shock with no spring. No meaning you don't have to have your shock filled 1/2 way to have 0 rebound. You can have 0 to 100% and everything in-between rebound with a full shock.

Try out 100% rebound before going thicker oil. Thicker oil means you will need a heavier spring and you will need the proper pistons to handle the thicker oil too. Sure you can experiment but a proper set up would be just that. Thicker oil on a stock piston and spring could mean 0 rebound before the next bump/bumps and now your low riding scraping everything if there is not enough time in-between for rebound which usually happens when you go thicker oil without everything else. I might be being to anal and splitting hairs but on a track you want the perfect set up.

 

[Maxx. D]

Thanks that is good to know! How do you change rebound without changing the amount of oil?

 

[gotnitro]

Thanks that is good to know! How do you change rebound without changing the amount of oil?

 

[Maxx. D]

Thanks, do you have to have the foam piece in order to set rebound? Or can you just screw the cap on while you have the shaft at the desired point of rebound. As of now I'm running emulsion style shocks as razor rc suggested, can you still set rebound on emulsion?

 

[Summitp]

Just saw your emulsion question, I have not run emulsion setup.

I like my shocks to rebound about half way out with no spring. The reason they rebound, is as the shaft and piston take up volume. The rubber bladder provides additional volume for the oil displaced by the shaft and piston and will push against and provide a little bit of rebound. The purpose is to accommodate the displacement of fluid, not rebound adjustment. If you overfill your shock, you will see that you cannot push the piston all the way in, and on a hard hit, you will blow the bladder/seal/shock cap. Something has to give. If you are continuously blowing through your suspension travel, you have several options.
1. Ensure that the shocks are properly filled. Underfilled will cause the air in the shock to mix with the oil causing it to "foam" and it stops working well.
2. If they are properly filled, move to a slightly thicker shock oil. This will provide additional damping for large jumps and bumps. Thicker fluid will also handle better on smoother terrain. Thicker oil with the same spring and piston will result in slower rebound. If the spring does not provide fast enough rebound action, in repeated rough bumps, the shock will "stack up" meaning it is compressed from repeated compressions without enough time to extend (rebound).
3. Adjust how the shock is mounted. Move the lower shock mount out, and the upper mount in. This will lay the shock over and make compression more progressive.
Obviously many ways to setup suspension, but these are some basics.

 

[parcou]

Nothing a few upgrades won't solve.

The diffs with the 4 gears are fine, they can easily take 3s.

Centre Driveshafts need replacing - Mip Pucks center drive kit.

Cvds... Put Tekno R/C TKR2210X M6 Driveshaft/Lightened Outdrives in both Front and Rear.

Heatsink and fan on motor

Double stack fan on ESC

Run 3s all day long

How are the "Tekno R/C TKR2210X M6 Driveshaft" holding up to date?

 

[Maxx. D]

With the Tekno driveshafts you use the stock losi hexes right?

 

[parcou]

So I’ve installed the Losi lightened / hardened outdrives on the rear diff and they’re chewing up the dog bones on the drive shafts. Is there a hardened drive shaft I can use?

View attachment 143655

View attachment 143656

See my post here on the Tekno....I did do the replacement driveshaft and outdrives. They claim to have better material...time will tell for me...

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-with-losi-db-pro-drivetrain-issue-i-think.39022/post-541320

I have had my dB pro since late March, and have had to replace a ton already, nothing being crash related. Love the thing when it’s working, but all the driveshafts/outdrives/axles are terrible out of the box and wear extremely quickly. I ended up doing the tekno axle/outdrives on the front and rear, and the mip kit for all the center driveshafts/outdrives. The pucks system is legit, much smoother and a easily replaceable wear part, as well as making the car significantly quieter. The stock bearings are not great, replaced all with the eddys kit after one literally imploded, and also did the metal diff bearing cups in the rear. And a savox 1258 servo, but that was just a wanted upgrade.

So my current issues...the rear outdrives have a lot of play, so I need to replace the rear diff case. Does anyone know if the Losi aluminum one (listed for the lasernut center diff) will work in the rear? Also, I have wheel nuts loosening up (even with generous amounts of blue loctite) and quickly round out the wheel interface when it happens. Anyone do the hot racing or similar 17mm conversion kit and go to 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires?

In my earlier post here, I stated how the rear diff crown gears just ate up....no hard bashing but learned from others Losi has some poor material. I got a new set of crown gears in will install tomorrow.

The Tekno driveshaft in my link above is made longer per Tekno website and I have them installed on the front did not get to the rear tonight. Nice fit very little back/forth movement....big improvement overstock. Big dogbone head helps that a lot also.

I used the same Traxxas flanged and serrated nuts on the Losi as I do my Big Rock/Granite BLX...they are a bit taller than the OEM nut and the serrated teeth had a sharper edge that bits. No Loctite and never came off on either rigs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CN7HX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



What rear metal diff cups are you referring to? The covers that go over the bearings to replace the plastic ones or actual metal diff itself? If yes, share your experience?

With the Tekno driveshafts you use the stock losi hexes right?

Yes. It is the same CV setup on the hex end so the same hex for the stock tires and nut. The dogbone is much bigger and cannot work with the Losi or Losi HD outdrives.

 

[N1ck]

Can anyone tell me what hardware is used to construct the DB cage and attach the body panels? The cage parts do not include any hardware and none of the online manuals seem to list what size hardware is needed.

 

[parcou]

@N1ck

I put a cage together recently but it varies from M3 6mm to 16mm and some in middle of these button head screws.

See two files I attached

 

[parcou]

This is a much better wheel nut for the Losi DB Pro. I have never has the use LT and it is a larger flange and the serrated teeth and deeper and bit. Traxxas anodized ones are just as good which I use on 14mm hex as well but they do not sell a chrome one...

 

[parcou]

Losi DB owners....

I posted on how to refill the Losi DB shocks correctly. If you have some insight, do you mind sharing the knowledge to me here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-how-to-refill-shocks-with-no-bleeder-hole.39905/

Thx

 

[Hazardy]

I just picked up a DB Pro this week and after 6 packs - so far so good!

I was VERY disappointed in the large turning radius so I looked up online and saw how to adjust the DX2E endpoints. However - it still required a little grinding away a little of the steering servo mounting flange in order to get the additional travel required from the linkage. Now it turns nice & tight.

I wouldn't mind getting a bit more run time off the 2S battery, which begs the question; Is there any run time advantage in disconnecting the light bar?
I'm always running in daylight and the light bar is cool at first look but I could do without it if it gained me any run time.