The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

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I just picked up a DB Pro this week and after 6 packs - so far so good!

I was VERY disappointed in the large turning radius so I looked up online and saw how to adjust the DX2E endpoints. However - it still required a little grinding away a little of the steering servo mounting flange in order to get the additional travel required from the linkage. Now it turns nice & tight.

I wouldn't mind getting a bit more run time off the 2S battery, which begs the question; Is there any run time advantage in disconnecting the light bar?
I'm always running in daylight and the light bar is cool at first look but I could do without it if it gained me any run time.
No disadvantage to the light it's led and takes little power.

Your turn radius is not something commonly posted I have seen mentioned. I can turn far left and right but I have adjusted my endpoints so I don't max the servo still have plenty or turn. I can make sharp turns. I run on 3S also so honestly I drift it so on dirt my turns are powered by drift to spin in the opposite direction 3S is right balance for this Losi. Regardless, you still should not be locked to wide radius turns. Is this the stock servo?
 
It is still the stock servo. The thing is I'm running the DB on a new local dirt track that my town recreational department built for anyone to use free of charge. It is an outer oval with back and forth straights w/ jumps on the inside of the oval. These 3 back and forth straights are too tight for the DB to negotiate if you are not drifting on the 180 degree turnarounds. And when some father & sons are sometimes using this track while I'm using it; I'm not always slinging the truck around. Hence the need to make the truck turn tighter than the factory setup.
Now that I made a cut to the servo mounts corner to allow more steering linkage travel (and adjusted the endpoints); the DB turns very tight corners at slow speed, so now I can play nice when the track is busy.

And thanx for the LED answer (y)
 
It is still the stock servo. The thing is I'm running the DB on a new local dirt track that my town recreational department built for anyone to use free of charge. It is an outer oval with back and forth straights w/ jumps on the inside of the oval. These 3 back and forth straights are too tight for the DB to negotiate if you are not drifting on the 180 degree turnarounds. And when some father & sons are sometimes using this track while I'm using it; I'm not always slinging the truck around. Hence the need to make the truck turn tighter than the factory setup.
Now that I made a cut to the servo mounts corner to allow more steering linkage travel (and adjusted the endpoints); the DB turns very tight corners at slow speed, so now I can play nice when the track is busy.

And thanx for the LED answer (y)

OK

I understand what you are doing now. I may be wrong on this and some others can jump in. The Losi DB Pro to what I heard is not a true competition model for race as those that are for race are a bit more designed in setup with steering for those turns.
 
The Losi DB Pro to what I heard is not a true competition model for race as those that are for race are a bit more designed in setup with steering for those turns.
I too believe this to be a fair statement.

Actually - from the few long time hobbyists that I've talked to - they believe that almost all (if not all) ready to run trucks are not "race ready".
That's okay with me 'cause I'm runnin' a very high fun meter with this DB on my local track!!! :):cool:
 
OK

I understand what you are doing now. I may be wrong on this and some others can jump in. The Losi DB Pro to what I heard is not a true competition model for race as those that are for race are a bit more designed in setup with steering for those turns.
Yup similar to the differences between say an Arrma Talion V1 and a Team Durango DEX8T. Just because it is based on a race platform doesn't necessarily make it a race vehicle.

arrma talion 003.jpg


Capture1.jpg
 
Sorry for the noob question, but I gotta ask; why put front and rear skid plates on this DB?

In my mind - I'm thinking it has a flat aluminum chassis that would have to have scraped over a lot of stones to wear it away, and even with the F&R skid plates its still going to get scraped up. in the middle sections.

In my mind - having skid plates means that when I get chassis slap; now the impact is concentrated on the front and rear skid plate areas instead of a more even impact on the whole chassis.

In my mind - skid plates will lower my ground clearance by the thickness of the skid plates, which looks to be around 3/16"

So what are the advantages to installing F&R skid plates?
 
Sorry for the noob question, but I gotta ask; why put front and rear skid plates on this DB?

In my mind - I'm thinking it has a flat aluminum chassis that would have to have scraped over a lot of stones to wear it away, and even with the F&R skid plates its still going to get scraped up. in the middle sections.

In my mind - having skid plates means that when I get chassis slap; now the impact is concentrated on the front and rear skid plate areas instead of a more even impact on the whole chassis.

In my mind - skid plates will lower my ground clearance by the thickness of the skid plates, which looks to be around 3/16"

So what are the advantages to installing F&R skid plates?

You really do not have to use them but this is why I do....

Over time the aluminum will fatigue which will cause a bow or twist this can not be prevented by skid plates. It is 100% correct just my thought and this is NOT a send-it RC and we hope the chassis is tough enough. It does not hurt performance or clearance or any RC action for me on 3S power RPM is plastic is light. Since I tend to land on the front and bottom on the chassis on bad landings or hit hard I like seeing it beat up vs the f/r of the chassis. I can see it's helping.

On my Infraction, the chassis takes a beating on the bottom since it is so low but I have no-skid plates on it. But I am concerned at times that it still hits those countersink screws that it wears them to a point I cannot get my hex driver in there good enough. On the Losi with the skid plates, it takes away that concern but it's high enough probably would never be a concern if I did not have the plates.

You can bash happily without them doubt you see an issue....
 
Sorry for the noob question, but I gotta ask; why put front and rear skid plates on this DB?

In my mind - I'm thinking it has a flat aluminum chassis that would have to have scraped over a lot of stones to wear it away, and even with the F&R skid plates its still going to get scraped up. in the middle sections.

In my mind - having skid plates means that when I get chassis slap; now the impact is concentrated on the front and rear skid plate areas instead of a more even impact on the whole chassis.

In my mind - skid plates will lower my ground clearance by the thickness of the skid plates, which looks to be around 3/16"

So what are the advantages to installing F&R skid plates?
This is why. This was a chassis that was used 100% for racing no bashing.

20210616_124552.jpg
 
This is why. This was a chassis that was used 100% for racing no bashing.

View attachment 152472

That pic is the perfect reason why you DON'T want to use skid plates when you race. Skid plates on a race track are non existent.. They will collect dirt underneath, they will bend, twist and act like a giant brake when you hit a jump or land a jump. You want that chassis slap-slide-scrape when you race.

Every one of my racing chassis was paper thin at the end of the season in those exact same places. You WANT that racing. I put skid plates on mine for protection on the street. If I were to bash or race mine, they would be the first thing to come off. Matter of fact, you might see mine up for sale soon.
 

Hazardy,for extra steering you can add these parts off the TLR race trucks.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-l...ndle-carrier-set-tlr234068/p-qqaeq2eqnb2xactz

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-losi-racing-tenscte-3.0-front-arm-set-tlr234069/p-qqaeq2eqnm2xactz

Just a question of my own, is there a way to remove the top chassis brace that extends across the length of the car? It seems to always be in the way and does not seem to add much rigidity as its just as bendable as puddy.

Could you use these part numbers to replace it?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jammin...-transponder-mount-jmp2109/p-quqvtqqq7z2xactz
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jammin...p-plate-spacer-set-jmp2113/p-quqqqawqnczxactz

(sorry the top 2 lines are bolded, couldn't get it to unbold)
 

Hazardy,for extra steering you can add these parts off the TLR race trucks.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-l...ndle-carrier-set-tlr234068/p-qqaeq2eqnb2xactz

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-losi-racing-tenscte-3.0-front-arm-set-tlr234069/p-qqaeq2eqnm2xactz

Just a question of my own, is there a way to remove the top chassis brace that extends across the length of the car? It seems to always be in the way and does not seem to add much rigidity as its just as bendable as puddy.

Could you use these part numbers to replace it?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jammin...-transponder-mount-jmp2109/p-quqvtqqq7z2xactz
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jammin...p-plate-spacer-set-jmp2113/p-quqqqawqnczxactz

(sorry the top 2 lines are bolded, couldn't get it to unbold)

I think so.
Just in case these are the parts off the TEN SCBE that would be needed.
LOSB2278 https://www.amazon.com/Team-Losi-Chassis-Brace-Spacer/dp/B002TWAD7C
TLR231001 https://www.amazon.com/Diff-Top-Plate-Tunnel-SCTE/dp/B00BP9X6TW
 
Those appear to be the same things as the Jammin carbon ones but those ones are just made of plastic. The car come with chassis braces already so you should not need those parts along with the Jammin ones, am I wrong?

Thanks for the fast reply Slick.
 
Thank you for the suggestions, Maxx. When you say "extra steering", are you referring to a tighter turning radius or extra strong parts?
I am not exactly sure to be honest, E-fanatic suggested it earlier on this thread if you want more detail. I did notice steering improvements on the track, this along with a bearing support steering rack is a great combo!
 
Thank you for the suggestions, Maxx. When you say "extra steering", are you referring to a tighter turning radius or extra strong parts?

I am going to take a guess and say stronger parts. Twenty plus pages here and I read all them when I got mine and when it came to steering it was more about taking the slop out...servo replacement, bearings, aluminum steering rack or bell housing, steering spindle and knuckles, etc.

Yes it has a hella of slop out the box...I made some of those changes listed and it gave me a true, tuned, reliable steering system for the DB (desert buggy) for the terrain it was designed for to take hits/bumps/etc...much much better performance. So your use case is a bit different although there are YT'ers like Netcruzer who put it on a track it does not look like this is the focus for it...he does not talk about steering much other than it being slow....but it's out of its element to me..not a desert :)

 
Based off of info. on this thread - I bought the upgraded servo and the Exotek aluminum kit w/bearings, but I have not installed either yet. I'm a noob with rc cars so I'm not feeling the slow servo or steering play that you experienced drivers feel. I'm going to wait to install these upgrades until I can feel/see any excessive steering play.

On another note - I bought a receiver box to better protect the receiver. (I can't believe Losi left it so exposed) If I relocate the rx to the horizontal position - will that muck up the AVC? I have the AVC turned off normally, but when I hand the controls over to my son - he likes having a little AVC help.

I think I read that relocating it horizontally would require a re-bind. If that is true - will I loose my transmitter endpoint settings?
 
Based off of info. on this thread - I bought the upgraded servo and the Exotek aluminum kit w/bearings, but I have not installed either yet. I'm a noob with rc cars so I'm not feeling the slow servo or steering play that you experienced drivers feel. I'm going to wait to install these upgrades until I can feel/see any excessive steering play.

On another note - I bought a receiver box to better protect the receiver. (I can't believe Losi left it so exposed) If I relocate the rx to the horizontal position - will that muck up the AVC? I have the AVC turned off normally, but when I hand the controls over to my son - he likes having a little AVC help.

I think I read that relocating it horizontally would require a re-bind. If that is true - will I loose my transmitter endpoint settings?

If you change the orientation of the receiver you will need to recalibrate the AVC.
 
Based off of info. on this thread - I bought the upgraded servo and the Exotek aluminum kit w/bearings, but I have not installed either yet. I'm a noob with rc cars so I'm not feeling the slow servo or steering play that you experienced drivers feel. I'm going to wait to install these upgrades until I can feel/see any excessive steering play.

On another note - I bought a receiver box to better protect the receiver. (I can't believe Losi left it so exposed) If I relocate the rx to the horizontal position - will that muck up the AVC? I have the AVC turned off normally, but when I hand the controls over to my son - he likes having a little AVC help.

I think I read that relocating it horizontally would require a re-bind. If that is true - will I loose my transmitter endpoint settings?
I hear ya (y) take your time...all good!

I did not know about slop and how it creates problems in certain areas when I begin...you are right to wait until you see something just time and experience :) why we do it off the bat.

Already said, yes you have to rebind changing it from side to flat or vs orientation. You will not lose the endpoints if you are using a radio like a DX5C for example it will use all those numbers you set in that profile again, ep, trim, throttle, etc. If just a standard radio that comes with it...yes will have to set those each time on a rebind.
 
I'm thinking about making this buggy 4s, with upgraded driveshafts will the car hold up to 4s on the track?
I can't really answer that question but for sure upgrade those they are soft. I upgraded to the Tekno brand of driveshafts and outdrives. 4S might want to think about the diffs and bulkhead there have been issues on just 3S. Research and keep us updated. Losi used a lot of soft metal I even bent the top bolt the shocks bolt to doing little to nothing.
 
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