The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kingheadz makes some nice stuff. I have some of their stuff on a few of my rigs. I just noticed Kingheadz makes some stuff for the TEN-SCTE, I do not remember which version is compatible with the Tenacity platform though.
Kingz head is not compatible. Don’t ask me how I know🤦🏻‍♂️💸💸💸
 
I found it. Is this where all the losi db peeps are hanging out? Kind of surprised that there isn't a bigger forum presence for these. There's facebook, but meh.
I've got a standard db that tis just about a pro. Just missing the shocks. I primarily run arrma 6s vehicles, a mojave exb, a kraton, and a senton 6s. The losi is super fun, handles and jumps very well. I did have some durability issues for a while, but knock on wood, as the upgrades have been going on, it seems to be more reliable lately. I am running proline badlands mx28, and they seem to work very well with the car, and dramatically improve the db traction in loose surfaces and abilities to go through rough terrain with more speed. Sort of a shorter lasernut I guess.
I could use a motor fan. I am running a 16t pinion, and after a full pack, the motor is too hot. Halfway through it is ok, so I think some extra cooling will let me keep the 16. Car is a good speed with the 16, so I don't really want to back it off. I am running a lasernut motor, just cause that's what landed in my lap when my old fuze esc and motor stopped working.
I also keep snapping off the ends of the plastic suspension hinge pin retainers. I know losi makes an expensive aluminum version with lots tuning, but I am going to try to rig something up that will solve that problem on the cheap. Cause I don't care about all the tuning. I jump this thing a lot, and generally beat on it.
Anyway. Glad I found this thread. I'll be hanging around.
Here is the db in its native habitat.
IMG_20210424_180750.jpg

And a fun little video from this weekend down in the desert.
 
So I've been frustrated a couple times now with the plastic hinge pin retainers. The steel retainer is good, but to keep the pin from sliding out of the stamped steel part, a plastic cover is put on over top. There is a factory solution to the tune of $40 for a couple machined aluminum fancy doohickeys with adjustable blah blah blah.... Not spending 40 bucks on this.
So, I needed a bumper for the kraton, and while I was at the store I wandered over to the airplane bits and pieces section of the store to see what was there. Boom! Brass collars! Slide the pin part way into the arm, slide collar on, little bit of blue loctite on the grub screw, slide pin rest of the way, button everything up, slide collar to the back of the space, tighten, DONE! The plastic pin retainer is still broken, but that pin is not coming out. Much cheaper, and should be more reliable than the factory plastic cover, and A LOT cheaper than the oem upgrade. Check it out.
IMG_20210429_211743.jpg

IMG_20210429_212305.jpg

IMG_20210429_212316.jpg
 
So I've been frustrated a couple times now with the plastic hinge pin retainers. The steel retainer is good, but to keep the pin from sliding out of the stamped steel part, a plastic cover is put on over top. There is a factory solution to the tune of $40 for a couple machined aluminum fancy doohickeys with adjustable blah blah blah.... Not spending 40 bucks on this.
So, I needed a bumper for the kraton, and while I was at the store I wandered over to the airplane bits and pieces section of the store to see what was there. Boom! Brass collars! Slide the pin part way into the arm, slide collar on, little bit of blue loctite on the grub screw, slide pin rest of the way, button everything up, slide collar to the back of the space, tighten, DONE! The plastic pin retainer is still broken, but that pin is not coming out. Much cheaper, and should be more reliable than the factory plastic cover, and A LOT cheaper than the oem upgrade. Check it out.
View attachment 142978
View attachment 142979
View attachment 142980

This should work....when I first got mine recently I did see it had a lot of slop in that area. I added one nylon washer on that lone side pin in the very front and kept that arm in place and no back/forth movement only up/down as it should.

I also added the RPM skip plate for the front and the back....

I hoping all that helps me and I don't have to visit what you did....nice fix (y)
 
Losi DB Pro owners or those with the Firma 130A.

Only had my Losi for few weeks but looked out there we have a firmware update for the 130A ESC. I was on 1.55 from the factory. There have been a few updates up to 1.65

Update.... (y)

View attachment 141367

View attachment 141368
I noticed one change in the ESC...."Punch Level" is now DDRS Start Mode

Was default Punch Level 4, now
Level 6 by Default

@gotnitro anyone knows what that means?

View attachment 141370

FW 1.65 did not work well for me on the Losi DB Pro. Forward was reverse and reverse forward and all worked fine before the update. I make the switch in the DX5C setting the throttle to reverse and rebind and calibrate. Although it was right for the trigger pull now...all the power was in reverse and forward was low throttle like for reverse. I even made a new profile in the DX5C still the same.

I flashed the 1.55 back and reset the remote back to throttle as normal all worked fine with forward with the most power. I did 1.56, and 1.57 all good. It all goes downhill for me om 1.58 and 1.65 on the Firma 130A. Put it to 1.57

Anyone have success with FW 1.65 on the Losi
 
So I’ve installed the Losi lightened / hardened outdrives on the rear diff and they’re chewing up the dog bones on the drive shafts. Is there a hardened drive shaft I can use?

52D7821D-7D09-492E-86C0-6FBFC2273DA9.jpeg


1DA81682-6687-4B27-814C-AE30509DC14C.jpeg
 
So I’ve installed the Losi lightened / hardened outdrives on the rear diff and they’re chewing up the dog bones on the drive shafts. Is there a hardened drive shaft I can use?

View attachment 143655

View attachment 143656
Those just wear down over time, best bet is going to be to just replace the pins. Not sure what size the pins are for those but the process here will still work for you.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...-pins-on-arrma-6s-vehicles.14362/#post-224129
 
I don’t have an answer for ya, but does that thing have zebra stripes on it?? 😍
How very dare you. Those are fox stripes not zebra stripes! 😂
Those just wear down over time, best bet is going to be to just replace the pins. Not sure what size the pins are for those but the process here will still work for you.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...-pins-on-arrma-6s-vehicles.14362/#post-224129
Thanks. Never even thought of doing that. Mine wore downing that after one run on 3s!
I don't have an answer but a good call out...I too have the HD outdrives so it could be me down the road...
Mine did after one run!
 

I haven't tries these yet but sizewize they seem very similar to the stock tires.
Inside of the rim also seems to have enough clearance according to the pics.

What you could run into is that the insert for the wheel hex is too deep so the wheel rubs against the spindle carrier.
I've solved this by replacing the hex by one that's a little thicker.
You can only go +1 or +2mm on the hex because the axle for the locknut doesn't have more thread to spare.
Anymore than that you still can dremel off a bit of the wheel insert or get a proper widening kit. (stiffen up suspension when you go much wider)

I've had good luck with rubber quality on the cheap ali-wheels but size tolerance and quality control isn't always that consistent so wiggle and wobble does occur.

It's a bit of a lottery, same wheels from the same seller sometimes have no issues and 6 months later they do.
 
I have had my dB pro since late March, and have had to replace a ton already, nothing being crash related. Love the thing when it’s working, but all the driveshafts/outdrives/axles are terrible out of the box and wear extremely quickly. I ended up doing the tekno axle/outdrives on the front and rear, and the mip kit for all the center driveshafts/outdrives. The pucks system is legit, much smoother and a easily replaceable wear part, as well as making the car significantly quieter. The stock bearings are not great, replaced all with the eddys kit after one literally imploded, and also did the metal diff bearing cups in the rear. And a savox 1258 servo, but that was just a wanted upgrade.

So my current issues...the rear outdrives have a lot of play, so I need to replace the rear diff case. Does anyone know if the Losi aluminum one (listed for the lasernut center diff) will work in the rear? Also, I have wheel nuts loosening up (even with generous amounts of blue loctite) and quickly round out the wheel interface when it happens. Anyone do the hot racing or similar 17mm conversion kit and go to 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires?
 
Back
Top