This is literally a problem between Chassis & Drivetrain. Lol

[Crewchief227]

Ok so have the build done (pics coming later today), and I function tested it yesterday (bashed it?). After which I was excited to use my new m2c motor mount with the easy access center diff, which was awesome before I got the GKA braces, only to realize that you can't get the diff out because A) The tolerances are really tight everywhere on my truck, which causes B) The rear center driveshaft can't clear the brace without undoing the chassis bolt for the brace and sliding it over. ?

I bought the m2c mount for those two features, I bought the GKA braces cause they're bulletproof in build quality. So, does anybody else have this combo? Have you modded your brace to get the rear driveshaft to clear? I don't wanna kick off on it with a dremel just yet to find a solution. Was thinking of tapping the brace to fit a larger bolt, that way I don't have to hold one side with a driver while removing the other. It was soooooo close to clearing, if I did dremel it, it would just be to smooth out the angle of cutout on the top side.

 

[Mr.Duke]

I'd just dremel the necessary clearance around the rear brace.

 

[Crewchief227]

I'd just dremel the necessary clearance around the rear brace.

Yeah keep looking at it, should only be a mm or two tops. Just gotta keep the dremel marks on the underside of the notch so I don't have to stare at my ugly dremeling vs. the machined beauty of GKA accessories.?

 

[bicketybam]

I always have a hard time reinstalling the center diff with the two center dogbones. I use the Arrma V4 mount and Voltage braces and it's super tight on all my trucks. I can't even do it with my Typhon. Instead of f'ing around with it I usually install the diff and front dogbone and then remove the rear end to get the rear one in. Defeats the purpose but I lack patience ?

 

[jondilly1974]

I just went thru this on my Typhon 6s build myself. I had just put the front and rear back on with the new braces and didn’t feel like taking them back off. Started by mounting the diff brace and motor mount, only to realize I couldn’t align the dogbones and center diff that way. Decided to take the screws out of the diff and motor mounts instead of the rear. The loctite was still fresh on the motor mount, but already dried on the front and rear, and that was the contributing factor.

 

[Jimbobjr]

My rear chassis brace is the same way in the Kraton. I take the chassis brace bolt out and it flexes enough to squeeze in.

 

[Crewchief227]

I always have a hard time reinstalling the center diff with the two center dogbones. I use the Arrma V4 mount and Voltage braces and it's super tight on all my trucks. I can't even do it with my Typhon. Instead of f'ing around with it I usually install the diff and front dogbone and then remove the rear end to get the rear one in. Defeats the purpose but I lack patience ?

Not a unique problem to Arrma either. My Associated RC8B3.1E has the same problem with the front chassis brace, and top out diff mount (and that's a stock problem). So you never got fed up and took a dremel to yours? I wonder if the new m2c braces @Rich Duperbash is testing have the same problem with the rear brace. Or did @Mitchell looper compensate the top angle of the notch to compensate??

 

[bicketybam]

Not a unique problem to Arrma either. My Associated RC8B3.1E has the same problem with the front chassis brace, and top out diff mount (and that's a stock problem). So you never got fed up and took a dremel to yours? I wonder if the new m2c braces @Rich Duperbash is testing have the same problem with the rear brace. Or did @Mitchell looper compensate the top angle of the notch to compensate??

I never dremeled mine.