Senton Throttle lag/cogging issue

[Gutzum]

Hey everyone, new to the forums here so i hope i'm posting this in the right place. I bought a senton 3s blx and two 2s 50c lipos a couple weeks ago and have had the issue from the start. When i give it throttle from a standstill it stutters for a second or 2 before it takes off. It does the same thing in reverse. If i am driving it on grass and up a hill and try to take off from a stop sometimes it will stutter until it just stops responding.

I have gone to where i bought it twice, the first time they replaced the esc and that helped for less than a pack. The second time they told me it was normal and not to worry about it.

The problem i have is every other rc i have owned (all brushed btw so maybe its just my ignorance) is able to spin the tires if you nose it up to a wall and give it full throttle, if i do that to this one it has seizures and throttle response gives up in about 3 seconds. Is this normal for brushless? Its been a horrible experience so i wanted to ask someone other than tech support or the hobby shop i bought it.

I have changed out all connectors to ec5 to find out if it was power issue with adapters, I have re-calibrated the esc a few times and all the connectors to motor and receiver to make sure they are secure. I have taken the motor out and checked the pinion and spur to make sure they arent stripped and nothing hampering them.

I really just want to know if this is something i need to get used to with brushless or not. if it isnt then i can go back to them and be confident its not right.

I love the truck other than that, it was my stepping stone to the 6s rigs. =)

 

[bicketybam]

Hey everyone, new to the forums here so i hope i'm posting this in the right place. I bought a senton 3s blx and two 2s 50c lipos a couple weeks ago and have had the issue from the start. When i give it throttle from a standstill it stutters for a second or 2 before it takes off. It does the same thing in reverse. If i am driving it on grass and up a hill and try to take off from a stop sometimes it will stutter until it just stops responding.

I have gone to where i bought it twice, the first time they replaced the esc and that helped for less than a pack. The second time they told me it was normal and not to worry about it.

The problem i have is every other rc i have owned (all brushed btw so maybe its just my ignorance) is able to spin the tires if you nose it up to a wall and give it full throttle, if i do that to this one it has seizures and throttle response gives up in about 3 seconds. Is this normal for brushless? Its been a horrible experience so i wanted to ask someone other than tech support or the hobby shop i bought it.

I have changed out all connectors to ec5 to find out if it was power issue with adapters, I have re-calibrated the esc a few times and all the connectors to motor and receiver to make sure they are secure. I have taken the motor out and checked the pinion and spur to make sure they arent stripped and nothing hampering them.

I really just want to know if this is something i need to get used to with brushless or not. if it isnt then i can go back to them and be confident its not right.

I love the truck other than that, it was my stepping stone to the 6s rigs. =)

Yeah, many posts about this, specifically by me. Long story short - normal. You need to go to a bigger esc or a better esc like the Castle Mamba X to get rid of the cog.

 

[Gutzum]

Yeah, many posts about this, specifically by me. Long story short - normal. You need to go to a bigger esc or a better esc like the Castle Mamba X to get rid of the cog.

Ok, thats what i was afraid of. I was driving in some grass and if i tried to in the middle of a hill going up it couldnt get going with the resistance of the hill plus grass. That is just the electronics in these trucks and more powerful esc would help solve that? Do the 6s trucks suffer from the same issue? its just tough to assume ill have to put a new esc in a new truck. =) maybe ill just go back to being happy with brushed motors. lol

Thanks for the info, i appreciate it.

 

[bicketybam]

Ok, thats what i was afraid of. I was driving in some grass and if i tried to in the middle of a hill going up it couldnt get going with the resistance of the hill plus grass. That is just the electronics in these trucks and more powerful esc would help solve that? Do the 6s trucks suffer from the same issue? its just tough to assume ill have to put a new esc in a new truck. =) maybe ill just go back to being happy with brushed motors. lol

Thanks for the info, i appreciate it.

6s trucks do not cog at all.

 

[Gutzum]

6s trucks do not cog at all.

Wife may be in for a surprise when I come home with a big 6s truck I guess because that sounds like the ticket for me.

 

[crimsonfancy]

Wife may be in for a surprise when I come home with a big 6s truck I guess because that sounds like the ticket for me.

Have you changed the pinion? I'd call warranty if you haven't messed around with gearing and it still cogs.

 

[BLXLyfe]

higher the voltage less cogging, go to a 3s.
The 6s don't suffer it because of the way the ESC fires with much higher voltage.

 

[crimsonfancy]

Maybe your trouble is the lipos. 2s and maybe not the c-rating they claim? What batteries do you have?
I'd try a 3s from a reputable seller. So many good ones out there too.

 

[Don mercier]

Yeah, many posts about this, specifically by me. Long story short - normal. You need to go to a bigger esc or a better esc like the Castle Mamba X to get rid of the cog.

I added a cap pack and it stops that to an extent, but ya, ive ordered a hobbywing max 8 120amp esc, hopfully that will change that

 

[Gutzum]

Thank you for the replies guys. I have not changed the gearing around, i was thinking of dropping it to a 15t pinion to see if that helps but wasnt sure it would help.

The Lipos could be part of the problem i have come to realize but once it gets going its got power and they stay cool. They are Zeee 2s 50c lipos and were cheap and i did assume the 50C rating on them was a bit high but did not think it would be lower than 35c. Im new to lipos and learning the error of my thinking.

I was about to purchase a dynamite reaction 50c hardcase in the 3s flavor but i didnt want to buy it and then have it not help the issue. The LHS did not have a battery charged to test in it when i went in last time i was told so did not get to test to see if a 3s would help. Sounds like it may be worth buying a 3s to try tho. I like the truck other than the cogging from a standstill and inability to get moving sometimes, that is making it un-driveable for me.

I will call horizon and see if they can do anything.

 

[wingnutks]

Yeah, many posts about this, specifically by me. Long story short - normal. You need to go to a bigger esc or a better esc like the Castle Mamba X to get rid of the cog.

Upgrading an ESC on a brand new stock truck? Cogging is normal even with stock gearing?

 

[bicketybam]

Upgrading an ESC on a brand new stock truck? Cogging is normal even with stock gearing?

Yep

 

[wingnutks]

Yep

Sound expensive

 

[Don mercier]

Sound expensive

I got a esc from hobby wing for 60$

Upgrading an ESC on a brand new stock truck? Cogging is normal even with stock gearing?

Horizon hobby sent me a new esc with a cap pack on it and made a big difference

 

[Cheapbastard]

I added a cap pack and it stops that to an extent, but ya, ive ordered a hobbywing max 8 120amp esc, hopfully that will change that

You mean Max10 right not Max8? The Max10 is 120a (2s-4s) the Max8 is 150a (3s-6s).

I got a esc from hobby wing for 60$

What esc from Hobbywing for $60 (model #)?

 

[Cheapbastard]

Thank you for the replies guys. I have not changed the gearing around, i was thinking of dropping it to a 15t pinion to see if that helps but wasnt sure it would help.

The Lipos could be part of the problem i have come to realize but once it gets going its got power and they stay cool. They are Zeee 2s 50c lipos and were cheap and i did assume the 50C rating on them was a bit high but did not think it would be lower than 35c. Im new to lipos and learning the error of my thinking.

I was about to purchase a dynamite reaction 50c hardcase in the 3s flavor but i didnt want to buy it and then have it not help the issue. The LHS did not have a battery charged to test in it when i went in last time i was told so did not get to test to see if a 3s would help. Sounds like it may be worth buying a 3s to try tho. I like the truck other than the cogging from a standstill and inability to get moving sometimes, that is making it un-driveable for me.

I will call horizon and see if they can do anything.

There's nothing wrong with the batteries the Zeee work just fine. C ratings can be over inflated but the Zeee 2s I have seem to me to have a good amount of punch.

IHMHO a new 2s won't help but I maybe wrong. If your going to go in another direction with another battery get a 3s battery and gear down (like a 15t pinion).

Calling Horizon they will probably just send a new esc (won't really help IMHO). The BLX100's with the cap packs may help (unless you already have one with it installed).

Brushed motors have a lot simpler working. The three phases of a brushless motor and reading magnet positions in the rotor there's more to it. Cogging is normal with a brushless motor from a standstill if it is overgeared whether it be the motor or the esc that can't really handle the gearing. A drop in kv of a motor can help eliminate cogging with similar gearing but will be slower. You gear up or volt up to try to gain more speed. When you ride a bike up a hill do you use the biggest gear on the bike no you use the smaller gears. Motor sizing comes into play like a 10year old vs 20year old pedaling a 26" bike. Do you run like Usain Bolt (high kv motor) or run like the world's strongest man (low kv motor) which would you choose to run the bigger load up a hill?

 

[Don mercier]

You mean Max10 right not Max8? The Max10 is 120a (2s-4s) the Max8 is 150a (3s-6s).



What esc from Hobbywing for $60 (model #)?

Its a max 8wp ezrun 120 amp 740amp burst

You mean Max10 right not Max8? The Max10 is 120a (2s-4s) the Max8 is 150a (3s-6s).



What esc from Hobbywing for $60 (model #)?

Its a max 8wp ezrun 120 amp 740amp burst

 

[Cheapbastard]

Its a max 8wp ezrun 120 amp 740amp burst

Its a max 8wp ezrun 120 amp 740amp burst

That's a EZrun SC8 not a Max8 two different serires of escs (not the same).

 

[Don mercier]

That's a EZrun SC8 not a Max8 two different serires of escs (not the same).

Ya my bad, still its 120 amp ment for 1:8 and 1:10 its water proof, and will be better that the blx 100. They are poop

Ya my bad, still its 120 amp ment for 1:8 and 1:10 its water proof, and will be better that the blx 100. They are poop

And 4s cappable, so the over heating problem should be gone

Ya my bad, still its 120 amp ment for 1:8 and 1:10 its water proof, and will be better that the blx 100. They are poop

And 4s cappable, so the over heating problem should be gone

Try aliexpress, they are cheeper than other sites, they just take longer to send stuff

 

[Cheapbastard]

Ya my bad, still its 120 amp ment for 1:8 and 1:10 its water proof, and will be better that the blx 100. They are poop

And 4s cappable, so the over heating problem should be gone

It should be a improvement the EZrun series is a just a step above RTR Hobbywing RTR versions while the Max series is a step above the Ezrun.
Only ever ran the SC8 with a 3660 2600kv motor on 4s it was a good esc I should have never have sold it. The Max10 SCT is nicer with 7.4v bec option and all don't see a huge improvement over the SC8 though.