Throttle lag from dead stop

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Dman0712

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Arrma RC's
I bought a new v3 Kraton a month or so ago and have upgraded the motor to a Leopard 4092 1480kv. Currently running 20 tooth pinion and stock blx 185 esc. Tried adjusting punch setting already. Tons of power but from a dead stop if i mash the gas there is like a second delay before it get full power. When i give it full throttle it will move a few inches and then full power comes on as the truck flips over. There isnt a problem when i am already moving its only at a dead stop. I also had a random problem yesterday when i went to use the truck. I powered in on and had no throttle input, only steering. I tried playing with throttle trim and all the sudden the truck took of backwards and flipped over. Turned truck off and back on and then it was working correctly but still had the lag from dead stop. Any ideas?
 
How old are the packs? What is the C rating of the packs? Brand?

Sounds like the packs or plugs are struggling to supply max current. Pinning it off the line is probably the largest possible burst the pack will deliver. Rolling on the throttle or pinning it once the motor is already spinning doesn't spike amps as much as pinning it from a dead stop.

I don't know that motor/esc, so could be the motor is trying to draw more amps than the esc can supply as well.
 
SMC Single pack 4500 mah. 90c. 85 amps. 22.2v Pack was new a month ago The esc is the stock arrma blx 185 150 amp. All connectors are stock that came with kraton. I don't care about standing backflips or anything as thats a good way to break stuff but its just irritating that it wont and makes me worry that there is a problem somewhere.
 
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Could be the pack isn't giving you enough, although, would think 90C would be enough. I run dual SMC 2S 7400 90C's in my savage with MMX/2200kv motor and also in my brushless revo with similar electronics (stock esc/2200kv motor). The packs are over a year old with quite a few cycles and I don't get any stuttering.

Did it always do this or did it just start doing it?
 
I never really noticed it before with stock motor. I guess il just deal with it. I just hope there isnt something wrong with motor or esc. Im trying to be able to run hard on a full pack without extreme temps. I just ran hard for 15 min or so in backyard. Pack had 30% left in it. Dropped my darn thermometer and it broke so i did the ol finger and spit test. Spit didnt sizzle and i could hold my finger for about 5 seconds but not any longer.
 
This is the only pack i have had. I bought the pack when i bought the truck a month ago. I just swapped out stock motor for leo 1480kv and geared up with 20 pinion it efforts to run fast offroad but keep heat down. I ran a 15 pinion on grass with stock blx 185 motor but motor was getting around 180 degrees
 
Any chance you have another receiver laying around? For me, the Spektrums aren't the fastest responding things that I have ever had - especially not the stockers. The DX3C felt a tiny bit more responsive but nothing like the Futaba 3PV

My traxxas stock stuff feels better than the spektrum stock stuff on the kraton as well.

Your batteries sound fine to me as do your connectors. The XT90s carry plenty of current.
 
Do you still have the stock motor? If so, try putting that back in and see if it goes away. If it does, then my guess is that something is wrong with the motor.
 
I don't have any other receivers. I guess i could try that. Do you think that could help? Because it not like when i mash the throttle the truck doesn't move at all for a second. It instantly moves but it just doesn't get full power instantly. Also i forgot to mention but the leopard motors come with 3mm mount holes so i drilled and tapped them to 4mm like the stock motor. I pulled the end cap off motor and completely had a brain fart and drilled and tapped two holed in the motor case itself! Instead of the end cap. Basically i drilled out two of the holes that hold the front Bearing support plate on motor. I looked down the holes and on one side saw tiny copped shavings. I must have knicked the winding. Dumb i know haha. Could this affect the timing of the motor?
 
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Those 4 outer screws. I drilled 2 of them on opposing sides. Could this be the whole problem?
 
The stock ESC is not large enough for that motor. You need something like the 1/6 HobbyWing 160A ESC, or their 1/5 200A ESC. It's a wonder you haven't burned your ESC up already
 
The stock ESC is not large enough for that motor. You need something like the 1/6 HobbyWing 160A ESC, or their 1/5 200A ESC. It's a wonder you haven't burned your ESC up already
Im confuses. I thought the lower kv motors required less amps more more voltage. Motor says it has 115amps max. 4200 watts max. I have a 150amp esc and 4500mah battery 90c. Help me understand why my esc is not efficient enough. Thanks
 
Did you do a throttle calibration after installing the new motor? That might help.

The stock blx185 will work fine with the 4092 1480kv motor. People are getting confused because of the picture in post #12 and thinking that's the new motor you have. A 5698 motor wont even fit in the car without major modifications.
 
You will kill your ESC with that motor. I have a 4092 HobbyStar 1480kv, with the HobbyWing 1/6 160A ESC, it's twice the size and designed to that power hungry motor. If you don't believe me, do some research for yourself and you will see what I am talking about. I have this setup in my ARRMA NERO BIG ROCK and I run a 26T pinion, started with a 17T, would hit top speed in 20 feet after I barely touched the throttle to keep it from just flipping over. 26T pinion with the stock 46T spur, she really opened up and I am not sure what the top speed is because I have not had anywhere to attempt it. The ESC is designed to handle 2S-8S. I use this pinion with 6S & 8S. You can get a HobbyWing 2000kv, 4074, and it will increase your torque and speed .That's what I installed in my Kraton, 17T pinion, 4S is bought all I run now because 6S is just ridiculous how easy it does standing back flips and that gets boring. Plus it runs so cool, don't have to ever worry about it, especially with the twin Yeah Racing fans I have installed. Just trying to save your ESC, , BUT if you really want better power and control get you a sensored setup from HobbyWing, best on the market and they cost less than anyother name brand.
 
You will kill your ESC with that motor. I have a 4092 HobbyStar 1480kv, with the HobbyWing 1/6 160A ESC, it's twice the size and designed to that power hungry motor. If you don't believe me, do some research for yourself and you will see what I am talking about. I have this setup in my ARRMA NERO BIG ROCK and I run a 26T pinion, started with a 17T, would hit top speed in 20 feet after I barely touched the throttle to keep it from just flipping over. 26T pinion with the stock 46T spur, she really opened up and I am not sure what the top speed is because I have not had anywhere to attempt it. The ESC is designed to handle 2S-8S. I use this pinion with 6S & 8S. You can get a HobbyWing 2000kv, 4074, and it will increase your torque and speed .That's what I installed in my Kraton, 17T pinion, 4S is bought all I run now because 6S is just ridiculous how easy it does standing back flips and that gets boring. Plus it runs so cool, don't have to ever worry about it, especially with the twin Yeah Racing fans I have installed. Just trying to save your ESC, , BUT if you really want better power and control get you a sensored setup from HobbyWing, best on the market and they cost less than anyother name brand.
Well appreciate the advice and teying to help me but just wondering why the esc cant handle the motor? What specs about it don't match to the motor? Thanks
 
Did you do a throttle calibration after installing the new motor? That might help.

The stock blx185 will work fine with the 4092 1480kv motor. People are getting confused because of the picture in post #12 and thinking that's the new motor you have. A 5698 motor wont even fit in the car without major modifications.
I did the throttle calibration. I didnt notice any difference personally. Down for the count right now as broke a few teeth on front large gear on front diff and im waiting on parts. I have the diffs shimmed internally but did not add a shim on the one side next to cup and bearing. I had one shim from the factory so now im adding 2 as i see there is some slop. Hopfully it will cure it.
 
Check RC JUICE.COM
HOBBYWING NORTH AMERICA.COM
READ THEIR EXPLANATIONS, YOU ARE LIKE I WAS, THEY DO A MUCH BETTER JOB EXPLAINING IT THAN I DO . YOU WILL LEARN A LOT FROM BOTH OF THEM, I DID.
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