Kraton Tight slipper? Tight yokes? Or Not shimmed properly?

[RC-RAD]

Gone through 2 rear Diffs and 2 rear input gears.

I've read through multiple threads that the reason I've stripped my diffs/gears is that my slipper too tight, or that I had my yokes on too tight or I didn't shim my diffs.

As my journey continues to dial in my K4S, how can I diagnose what the problem could be? I'm being mindful of letting off the throttle before landing. The second time I stripped my diff I under rotated a back flip, landed on the hood (not on throttle) and immediately heard a that infamous hard clicking noise in my diffs.

I have moved the shim in the rear diff from the drive side to the non drive side. I loosened my slipper a little more (1/2 turn from tight, maybe it's still too tight?) and I'm not sure if I'm tightening my yokes too much.

Is it advised to have a loose slipper than a tight one? I know its personal preference. But since I could be on the tight spectrum maybe I'll loosen it a lot more and diagnose from there and see what happens.

Thanks in advance. This forum has been a big help.

 

[ph47mf]

My rear diff is holding up so far, it was cleaned and greased and put back the original way i.e. shim on the gear side. Perhaps buying a metal yoke will help.

In regards to the slipper, I followed the advice from a fellow member who created this video. It hasn't come loose since, I still get wheelie on demand and kind enough to the diff.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I think part of the reason is the mesh between both gear need to be tight most people with their common sense will move the shim to the other side after looking at my old worn diff i can see the sun gear almost completly worn only touching 1/2 of the crown gear teeths i had the metal yokes in the rear diff sounded happy all the time but after opening it up sun gear was worn. Decided to put like how the manual tells to put them back togueter with the plastic yokes the diff will be quite hard to turn to get the same thing with the metal yokes i needed 2 shims as the diff breaks in there is going to be better gear contact between both gears imagine your spur gear and pinion we are trying to achive a perfect gearmesh but in my case after inspecting how the diff has worn out its like if my pinion and spur were too far from each other barely making contact and with time they just get destroyed plastic needs to break in

 

[Yonic]

Where to place the shim is easy, with the diff out (and inside the yokes) check for play between the ring and pinion, there should be some play, but minimal. choose the shim side based on that.

Regarding the slipper, 1/2 turn is almost totally locked. Try 2 turns open, if you feel it effects hard accelerations, close it to 1.5.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Gone through 2 rear Diffs and 2 rear input gears.

I've read through multiple threads that the reason I've stripped my diffs/gears is that my slipper too tight, or that I had my yokes on too tight or I didn't shim my diffs.

As my journey continues to dial in my K4S, how can I diagnose what the problem could be? I'm being mindful of letting off the throttle before landing. The second time I stripped my diff I under rotated a back flip, landed on the hood (not on throttle) and immediately heard a that infamous hard clicking noise in my diffs.

I have moved the shim in the rear diff from the drive side to the non drive side. I loosened my slipper a little more (1/2 turn from tight, maybe it's still too tight?) and I'm not sure if I'm tightening my yokes too much.

Is it advised to have a loose slipper than a tight one? I know its personal preference. But since I could be on the tight spectrum maybe I'll loosen it a lot more and diagnose from there and see what happens.

Thanks in advance. This forum has been a big help.

When you put the diff back togueter does it spin like butter? I personally run my slipper between 1 turn and 1.25 turn from fully tight

Where to place the shim is easy, with the diff out (and inside the yokes) check for play between the ring and pinion, there should be some play, but minimal. choose the shim side based on that.

Regarding the slipper, 1/2 turn is almost totally locked. Try 2 turns open, if you feel it effects hard accelerations, close it to 1.5.

I think that is part of the issue with the shim when i took out my original diffs and out them back togueter like they were they were super tight issues started once i moved the shim to the other side
I doing what the manual told me to do now going to see if the issues goes away if it dies well its the reason why behind all this
You can see the sun gear never made full contact with the crown gear after breaking in

Going to take picture when i get out of bed and show where the wear marks are and i have another in good shape sun gear to compair it to

 

[RC-RAD]

When you put the diff back togueter does it spin like butter? I personally run my slipper between 1 turn and 1.25 turn from fully tight

I think that is part of the issue with the shim when i took out my original diffs and out them back togueter like they were they were super tight issues started once i moved the shim to the other side
I doing what the manual told me to do now going to see if the issues goes away if it dies well its the reason why behind all this

I wouldn't say it spins like butter. It's pretty rough in my opinion.

Yeah, I wanna say once I moved the shim to the non drive side is when I started have these issues (I did that as it was recommended in a thread). I've tightened my slipper the way where you push the car till the tires start to skid but it seems like it's fully tight when I check it. I'll try 1.5 turns and start from there.

I'd really hate to strip another diff or input gear. I've been stocking up on diffs from Jenny's since I'm still figuring all this stuff out.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I wouldn't say it spins like butter. It's pretty rough in my opinion.

Yeah, I wanna say once I moved the shim to the non drive side is when I started have these issues (I did that as it was recommended in a thread). I've tightened my slipper the way where you push the car till the tires start to skid but it seems like it's fully tight when I check it. I'll try 1.5 turns and start from there.

I'd really hate to strip another diff or input gear. I've been stocking up on diffs from Jenny's since I'm still figuring all this stuff out.

I feel ya in the same boat but i love how the truck peforms i think im getting hold of whats hapenning
The thing is my worn rear diff could have work maybe for anotehr month it was a month old and i knew it was like new still because of the sound it was making when removing the motor also be sure to not use arrma stock bearings for some reason when i bough the 10x15x4 bearings its like if they were a bitt too large ussualy they go tight on the sun gear but that time they went in so easy and had slop the stock bearings are not great because they are metal shield remplace them with rubber sealed ones

 

[Surchaufeur]

one of the youtuber i fellow he has put the mega differentials on the kraton and he has still to break it after a few months now and running crazy power trought it the mega diffs are knowns for being weaker than the blx differentials and he has put the differentials super tight

 

[razorrc]

I think part of the reason is the mesh between both gear need to be tight most people with their common sense will move the shim to the other side after looking at my old worn diff i can see the sun gear almost completly worn only touching 1/2 of the crown gear teeths i had the metal yokes in the rear diff sounded happy all the time but after opening it up sun gear was worn.

Maybe you just run your Kraton was more than everyone else. How many packs do you run a week/month? They might be failing just due to wear, and not because you're doing anything wrong.

 

[Stevenj76]

one of the youtuber i fellow he has put the mega differentials on the kraton and he has still to break it after a few months now and running crazy power trought it the mega diffs are knowns for being weaker than the blx differentials and he has put the differentials super tight

I’ve only watched a couple of his vids , a couple is enough , he cant drive so shouldn’t be recording him self and he brakes something every time .

 

[Surchaufeur]

Maybe you just run your Kraton was more than everyone else. How many packs do you run a week/month? They might be failing just due to wear, and not because you're doing anything wrong.

I put maybe packs per week 4000mah

 

[RC-RAD]

Replaced my diff today, set slipper to 1.5 turns and ran two 5000mah packs. So far so good. A little hesitant for big air jumps but so far so good. Slipper was a bit loose to my liking so maybe I’ll try 1.25 turns.

I wanna treat my K4S like my O4S so maybe I’ll leave the stunt jumps to my O4S.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Just don't land on throttle thats the golden rule

 

[RC-RAD]

Just don't land on throttle thats the golden rule

you got it!

 

[Surchaufeur]

Even if you are going to crash let go of the accelerator it should be automatic

 

[razorrc]

Just don't land on throttle thats the golden rule

I don't really agree with that. If you're talking about what will be the most gentle on the drivetrain, matching the speed of the truck with the throttle is what will be easiest on the truck. Matching revs is what you want.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I don't really agree with that. If you're talking about what will be the most gentle on the drivetrain, matching the speed of the truck with the throttle is what will be easiest on the truck.

Yeah like correcting a nose dive when you are lunching foward at high speed thats alright if you don't gun it

 

[razorrc]

No, "don't land on throttle" is one of those myths everyone keeps repeating when they don't know what they're talking about. You want your wheels turning at the same speed as the ground, when you do it right there is no shock to the drivetrain and your truck keeps moving along when it lands, at the same speed it was in the air.

It's the difference between air speed and wheel speed that produces the shock to the drivetrain and causes damage. If your truck is moving 30mph in the air when it lands, and your wheels are completely stopped (0mph), that's a 30mph difference that your drivetrain has to somehow absorb. If your truck is going 30mph in the air and your wheels are moving at 60mph, again that's a 30mph difference that it has to somehow survive.

That difference in speed is what causes the damage.

 

[Surchaufeur]

No, "don't land on throttle" is one of those myths everyone keeps repeating when they don't know what they're talking about. You want your wheels turning at the same speed as the ground, when you do it right there is no shock to the drivetrain and your truck keeps moving along when it lands, at the same speed it was in the air.

It's the difference between air speed and wheel speed that produces the shock to the drivetrain and causes damage. If your truck is moving 30mph in the air when it lands, and your wheels are completely stopped (0mph), that's a 30mph difference that your drivetrain has to somehow absorb. If your truck is going 30mph in the air and your wheels are moving at 60mph, again that's a 30mph difference that it has to somehow survive.

That difference in speed is what causes the damage.

When i think about it i have been doing stupid stuff to my kraton like gunning the speed trying to recover from falling on my roof or squeezing a wheelie before landing at almost full speed i might reconsider my driving from now on then my sun gear in the rear still had life to it but decided to change them. Now im running 13t with a tighter slipper because my last pads burned out on 15T vs the original pads i had from another clutch
Maybe its really me who damaged the diffs without knowing thanks to bring this up i always tough never land on the throttle i did think time to time about wheel speed and said the clutch wiuld absorb it but now i don't think it fully does a shock
I understand now

 

[Silverado86]

Try Turning down the punch setting as well