Tips for a body newb?

dpricenator

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Good morning guys and gals. I am looking for some tips or recommended videos/websites for trimming my first body. Not my personal fatbody, but an RC car body. Every one I’ve touch was already pre trimmed or shaped or whatever you call it. So I got some Integy gold colored curved scissors, and a pre- painted Grave Digger Body. When I say pre-painted, it has a couple coats of gloss black already sprayed over the inside. And it came with all the Grave Digger stickers. Yeah Stickers, not decals :(. Don’t worry, I won’t be adding the stickers. I wanted to get a clear body and paint it myself, but this one was on clearance:).


So I went to trim a bit of it this morning before work and am having trouble. The scissors are wanting to sit right on the transition from the body to the thick base plate edge part that goes all the way around. So once I cut a bit away, the bottom edge of the body still has a little rough edge flipping out from the body. . I know the easy answer is to just trim a little more, but I don’t want to trim too much. I am also worried, that I can’t make a straight line, with a pencil, much less scissors.


Does anyone out there, have any tips or places to visit that will offer some instruction on the easiest way to get around the body. Maybe I just have to go around twice and with a little practice, will be fine.
 

Outcaster

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  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Outcast 6s
  3. Typhon 6s
I use a sharp x-acto knife to score the body on the outside along the line I want trimmed then simply bend it along the line to snap it off. It provides a good clean finish at the break. Then use scissors to do any finer trimming work required. You should be able to do most of it with the score and snap method though.
As far a video, not sure, I'm sure a quick google search will provide you a bunch of options?
 

dpricenator

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PERFECT! Thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for. I can't really search for videos at work, and I wanted to trim this thing at lunch. I've got utility blades in the car, so I'll report back after lunch.
 

Outcaster

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  2. Outcast 6s
  3. Typhon 6s
Just take your time, apply a bit of pressure but don't try to go through the body with the knife. It will snap off easy enough just being scored. I typically take the flat bottom section off first then get into doing the body lines and wheel wells. Easier to work with once the bottom lip is off. The key is a sharp blade.
Good luck!
 

dpricenator

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Right so the body is all trimmed. I could have done better on the wheel wells, but one they hide behind the tires it'll be fine. It's the kind of "could have done better" that only the artist would ever notice. Bummer it was already painted as I did scratch some paint while I was trimming. So I walked over to Hobby Lobby today and picked up a can of matte black, a sand paper sampler and some blue tape. Sanded out the rough edges, taped her up and re-sprayed the black. Looks perfect now.

I hate to do it, but I am straight up stealing @Vanning 's body. I ordered the Thunder tiger Wheelie bar, and still need to cut body to fit , once it comes in. I got the truck bed liner to spray the roof and hood of the body, for scratch protection. And I picked up the Proline screw body mounts.

I can't shoe goo the inside until after I get the new body posts, and get the holes in the right place.

I test fitted it last night and it looks so cool I can't wait to run it.
 

TwiZted SkullZ

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Any rough edges...say around wheel wells can be smoothed out with a fine cut half round file.

As far as using Shoo Goo to re-enforce the body (which I've done) I find using some Scotch brand 'strapping tape'
to work much better, with less mess and much faster and cheaper to do.

But seeing how I'm a little late to this thread,you're probably already done with your car! :)
 

dpricenator

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Not too late actually, but I did already get all the dry wall mesh laid out. I am going to shoe goo it tonight. I found a method I really like for the shoe goo. I put a hair dryer to the tube for about 5 minutes before opening it. It really soften the shoe goo and allows it to spread much easier. You can't do vertical surfaces at the same time as the horizontal surfaces as it will rundown and puddle. I tried it on some 1/16 scale stuff I have.

But it is all painted, with Rhino Liner on the roof and hood. I lost my decals though. So I just ordered another set on Amazon, that'll be there on Wednesday. The body posts should come in before then, and I just finished replacing the main Spur gear due to a missing tooth. Hopefully that was the click I was hearing. Really don't want to take apart 3 differentials looking for it. Much easier when something just blows up. That way I know it's the front or rear, and don't have to go searching.

I like the idea of using just the tape, but at this point I'm building a tank, and am not concerned about weight, as much as ultimate strength. Condiering T-bone front and rear bumpers, T-bone mud guards, and the Duratrax Six Packs, and Rhino-Line on the body, this thing is going to be heavy, any way.
 
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