Outcast tips on control in air

[madmanmato]

hello everyone. just got my first outcast this weekend. im loving the truck. I've read the tips thread and had some other question about suspension setup and controlling the car in the air. i put some makeshift ramps outside and can't seem to get the car to rotate backwards. almost always wants to nose dive. i can give it full throttle leaving the ramp and it won't rotate backwards.there isn't much traction so i can't get that grip to start the rotation leaving the ramp, but i would think i should be able rotate the car backwards in air. if i let off it will rotate forward and want to land on the lid. im running a smc at 4s and a 16t. plenty of power and wheelies for day. i am wondering if some heavier center diff fluid would help.. any ideas/thoughts would be appreciated.
i was also curious about suspension setup, toe/camber. i like the way it drives, but wouldn't like to make the back end a little looser.

 

[ThatDrewGuy]

So I am by no means a pro, but this is what I learned on my own... heading off the peak of a ramp you should be off the throttle. That bring the motor rpm down a bit before going into the air. That will give you the chance to spool it up in the air to rotate the mass of the truck. If your full throttle off the jump, your only option is brake, and that’s going to make the nose rotate forward. I might have don't this a few times myself, and had to replace a shock tower or two...

It takes getting used to. Heres a couple quick vids of my Typhon. Listen to the motor before the jump, and in the air.

 

[madmanmato]

Thank you. that makes sense. in keeping to much throttle coming of the ramp im just maintaining the inertia and can only let off that momentum. the way you described allows for a neutral launch and the ability to build inertia and rotate. thanks so much.

 

[olds97_lss]

You may be hitting the ramp too fast. You have to have a decent amount of RPM's left to cause the flip as you hit/leave the ramp. If your at WOT by the time you hit the ramp, you don't have any extra to cause the flip. You can go nearly at walking speed up to a ramp, then punch the throttle about halfway up the ramp and it will flip. As you get a feel for it, you can figure out how fast you can hit the ramp and still have enough RPM to flip.

I have about 50 flips in the footage from yesterday, even a few double flips. The talion is running 6S, the outcast (mine) is running 4S with 15/50 gearing as I found 16/50 causes it to overheat. I have changed the oil in my outcast diffs to 100k/500k/100k using associated oil, but mine would still flip on stock oil pretty easily. I am running proline trencher 3.8's on mine, which are similar in size to the stock tires, but weight a few oz more per tire.

I have my brake dialed down quite a bit, so front flips don't work so well... tried that a few times too and ended miserably. lol

 

[madmanmato]

thanks. i was hitting it hard early without enough throttle to spare and have no traction on my ramp. i really appreciate all the help and advice. i ran for a good bit yesterday and it was hot as all get out and the motor never hit 150, so i should be good there. my ramps aren't very tall, not doing crazy super air like in any of these videos. i am gona get some spray bed liner to put on the surface of my ramps, should help with weather and get me some grip on the ramps as well. i really appreciate the help and advice.

 

[olds97_lss]

thanks. i was hitting it hard early without enough throttle to spare and have no traction on my ramp. i really appreciate all the help and advice. i ran for a good bit yesterday and it was hot as all get out and the motor never hit 150, so i should be good there. my ramps aren't very tall, not doing crazy super air like in any of these videos. i am gona get some spray bed liner to put on the surface of my ramps, should help with weather and get me some grip on the ramps as well. i really appreciate the help and advice.

Be careful with roughing up the face of the ramp. As you learn and pick up speed, the chassis is going to slap the face of the ramp. If you have sandpaper like stuff on there, it's going to grind away at your chassis.

I put steel plates on the front/rear of my outcast because after 1 set of packs at the skate park, I wore half way through my front and rear RPM skids from the face of the jumps. Now you can hear the steel hit the face when I hit a ramp at speed. The steel bars are cheap/easy to make. I have them on all 3 of my revo's as well for the same reason. Should make some for my stampede as it's grinding its way through the rear skid on a regular basis. My buddy has an alloy skid on the front/rear of his talion and has ground his way though most of them this summer. I'll stick with my homemade steel ones.

 

[ThatDrewGuy]

I will tell ya, for 11 bucks a can, flex seal is amazing. I’m using it on all the bodies I have now, and it’s keeping them rigid enough not to break, but still good enough to flex. Doesn’t add a ton of weight either after a few coats. I would recommend using that on your ramps. Cheap, and grips well.

 

[madmanmato]

thanks for all the thoughts and ideas. i hadn't thought of the surface being to rough and causing more wear and tear. flex seal sounds like a great idea though. i have also have a shed ramp and a ramp out the back door for are bulldog and my ending up putting that on those two as well.

 

[madmanmato]

thanks everyone. i built some ramps today and gave it another go. followed everyones advice and figured it out. its actually really easy to control. its pretty easy to do constant backflips. i did pop out the steering end link, arrma calls them composite ball cups. then it came out agian, i tweaked the angle it sat on there, it wall slightly off from what the other side was. hopefully it holds. are these worth upgrading, not sure what options there are.
im still tweaking the suspension. i have the v3 so they're stiffer springs,5lbs and 6.2. any tips on how far down for the spring collar. i have a pretty bumpy back yard and am not jumping higher than 5ft or so in the air. also curious about shock angles, thinking of going straight up on the rear, its on the middle from the factory. if i did my research right it will add more damping and decrease traction. whats everyone else running?

 

[olds97_lss]

I run RPM arms, shock bottom in the inside holes to raise the ride height up a bit, the tops on the outer holes to increase shock stiffness, 2018 springs (I think they are stiffer than what you listed), 30% 2000wt associated oil/70% whatever stock is (1000wt I think) in the shocks. I sucked some stock out with a syringe and filled them back up with the 2k diff oil.

Doesn't do too bad on the rough stuff, not nearly as plush as my savage or revo and kind of lands hard off the jumps though... well, when there's 10+ feet under it . I don't jump my revo or savage as high as I do this thing because they snap shocks/shock ends off. I may move the lower shock end out towards the arm, sacrifice ride height for a bit more stiffness.

 

[madmanmato]

thanks so much. i adjusted my droop and put different shock oil in today. 50f and 60r, rides really nice, almost there. tonight i adjust sway bars and am moving the rear shock tower point towards the outer hole. has any changed the shock toe and camber settings?

 

[michelbsl]

nice advise.
have outcast too.
bud i have evry thing stock at the moment.

 

[madmanmato]

seems like it may not be worth the effort to change all the camber and toe for backyard bashing. i did my test run today with the adjusted sway bars and man o man was it bouncy and did it ever lean when turning, i would think it would handle flatter. ill be loosing the adjustment grubs and trying again tomorrow.